More Curling Questions...

I'm still trying to get rid of the curl. Maybe I'm too much a perfectionest.

However, I'd like to match the quality of the parts I ordered for my machine.

Attached are 2 pics. The second with highlights on the curling inder the brim.

The Brim has reduced the curling to a level where the parts are usable. I'm not sure about saleable.

I've tried dropping the bed temp after the first layer, ABS juce,(although I didn't know the ratio at the time)
My coated Glass Trevets and bare Glass Trevets.

Something I've noticed that might help diagnose the problem is that If I print 4 small gears or such, a quick print, the bottems stay perfectly flat without a brim.

If I add the extruder to the same plate as the small gear and a large gear, everything gets curling, but it looks perfectly flat until late in the print when it all starts lifting.

I've ordered some wide Kapton tape to see if that plus the Brim will stop the late curling.

I'm posting to see if any of the experts might know why this is happening only on longer prints and even under the Brim.

Thanks

I'm sure you are aware that shrinkage is what causes warping and therefore you need to combat this force.
There are several techniques and I'm not sure which you have tried or even what material you are printing with. Here are some suggestions:

Increase bed temperature
Increase first layer temperature (hotend/bed)
Lower your starting height - perhaps you are printing your first layer too high
Increase your first layer extrusion width (Slic3r option)
Use blue painters tape (or yellow textured masking tape)
Use PET tape initially, then sand it and apply ABS juice when it starts to lose its stick
Kapton tape works well for many

I obviously suggest you try the first four as they are all settings based. Good luck!

yydoctt Wrote:
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> Here are some suggestions:
>
> Increase bed temperature

I can't get my bed above 110c (as listed by the sensor, actual temp ?)
I have tried lowering the temp after the first layer. Usually to 90-95c.

Had a print lift off at 80c

> Increase first layer temperature (hotend/bed)

I find that 230c is usually higher than my plastics need. So, I start there then lower after first layer.

> Lower your starting height - perhaps you are
> printing your first layer too high

Gone from nice bead to smushed mess.

> Increase your first layer extrusion width (Slic3r
> option)

Haven't seen that.

> Use blue painters tape (or yellow textured masking
> tape)

Thought that was only for PLA...

> Use PET tape initially, then sand it and apply ABS
> juice when it starts to lose its stick
> Kapton tape works well for many

Just got my Kapton tape and done some prints.

The prints stick really well, however I'm conserned by the bubbles that form under the tape where I usually have lift even under a Brim.
See pic.

The end result printing the same piece as before, without Brim, is defenatly high quality.

Unfortunatly, you can still see signs of lift on the part where the tape bubbled, as in pic.
Not enough I could capture easily in a pic and slight enough I can live with.

I am conserned with the life of the tape though...

use an old (or new) creditcard to apply the tape.

put a small piece on your heatbed, really smosh it with the creditcard. then use the creditcard to aplly the rest and hold with the other hand the tape from the. works like a charm but a little fiddly to align every piece of tape....

Spray the tape and the glass surface with some soapy water. It will allow you to move the tape around until you squeegy it down with a stiff card.