Help deciding on a build
Posted by aussie_g
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Re: Help deciding on a build November 02, 2015 07:40AM |
I have been using a BullDog XL extruder and E3D v6 hot end in my printer since last December without a single jam or other problem of any kind (printing ABS).
One of the big problems with buying a kit is that they typically have poor frame construction. That severely limits what you can do to improve the machine.
If you decide to DIY, by all means start with a rigid frame, but also think in terms of eliminating anything else that's flexible or sloppy. The typical 8mm end-supported round guide rails are pretty flexible. If you replace them with larger diameter rails, or better yet, fully supported rails you will see big improvements in print quality. Those round rails are OK, but the bearings that ride on them usually have some slop. Using linear guides will eliminate the slop. Linear guides have a single rectangular rail with slots cut into two sides. They usually come with a rectangular bearing block or two that rides in the grooves. There is no play in the motion- they slide easily and smoothly along the rail, which is always intended to be fully supported. The first time you handle one you'll be amazed at the precision of the motion it produces, and then you'll think, "yeah, this should be in my printer".
Before you panic and say "they're too expensive", take a look at ebay. You can find some real bargains on linear guides if you take the time to look. I recently picked up an unused, old stock IKO LWLF 24 linear guide with a bearing block, almost 21" long, for $34 including shipping. Too long isn't a problem- they can be cut to the needed length using a cut off wheel on a grinder. As far as other dimensions go, it really isn't important. 3D printers are equivalent to no load on linear guides- they will last forever in a 3D printer, so small ones are fine.
Linear guides are very compact compared to using pairs of round guide rails. I switched from 1/2" round rails in my printer to 12 mm linear guides in the X and Y axes about a year ago. My extruder carriage is now just a piece of rectangular tubing and an L bracket with the drive belt attached at the bottom and the extruder screwed down with two screws. It can't get much simpler mechanically, yet the performance is far beyond anything else you can do. There is no play at the extruder nozzle at all.
Here's the X axis as it looks now- the linear guide is screwed down to a piece of 1" square aluminum tubing:
Here's what it looked like when it had 1/2" round guide rails- the rails were held in brackets that were screwed to a piece of 1.5" square 8020:
I recommend 1/4" cast aluminum tooling plate for the print bed. It has all the characteristics needed- flat, thermally conductive, and it's easy to cut and drill. Mount it on a 3 point leveling system (not 4- it doesn't work).
If you build the machine with a rigid frame, rigid rails, and use a 1/4" bed plate, you won't need autoleveling. You'll set the bed level and won't have to touch it again. I recently tweaked the level and zero adjustments on my printer's bed for the first time in about 6 months.
You can see the whole printer by clicking the link in my sig, below.
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
One of the big problems with buying a kit is that they typically have poor frame construction. That severely limits what you can do to improve the machine.
If you decide to DIY, by all means start with a rigid frame, but also think in terms of eliminating anything else that's flexible or sloppy. The typical 8mm end-supported round guide rails are pretty flexible. If you replace them with larger diameter rails, or better yet, fully supported rails you will see big improvements in print quality. Those round rails are OK, but the bearings that ride on them usually have some slop. Using linear guides will eliminate the slop. Linear guides have a single rectangular rail with slots cut into two sides. They usually come with a rectangular bearing block or two that rides in the grooves. There is no play in the motion- they slide easily and smoothly along the rail, which is always intended to be fully supported. The first time you handle one you'll be amazed at the precision of the motion it produces, and then you'll think, "yeah, this should be in my printer".
Before you panic and say "they're too expensive", take a look at ebay. You can find some real bargains on linear guides if you take the time to look. I recently picked up an unused, old stock IKO LWLF 24 linear guide with a bearing block, almost 21" long, for $34 including shipping. Too long isn't a problem- they can be cut to the needed length using a cut off wheel on a grinder. As far as other dimensions go, it really isn't important. 3D printers are equivalent to no load on linear guides- they will last forever in a 3D printer, so small ones are fine.
Linear guides are very compact compared to using pairs of round guide rails. I switched from 1/2" round rails in my printer to 12 mm linear guides in the X and Y axes about a year ago. My extruder carriage is now just a piece of rectangular tubing and an L bracket with the drive belt attached at the bottom and the extruder screwed down with two screws. It can't get much simpler mechanically, yet the performance is far beyond anything else you can do. There is no play at the extruder nozzle at all.
Here's the X axis as it looks now- the linear guide is screwed down to a piece of 1" square aluminum tubing:
Here's what it looked like when it had 1/2" round guide rails- the rails were held in brackets that were screwed to a piece of 1.5" square 8020:
I recommend 1/4" cast aluminum tooling plate for the print bed. It has all the characteristics needed- flat, thermally conductive, and it's easy to cut and drill. Mount it on a 3 point leveling system (not 4- it doesn't work).
If you build the machine with a rigid frame, rigid rails, and use a 1/4" bed plate, you won't need autoleveling. You'll set the bed level and won't have to touch it again. I recently tweaked the level and zero adjustments on my printer's bed for the first time in about 6 months.
You can see the whole printer by clicking the link in my sig, below.
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
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Re: Help deciding on a build November 02, 2015 10:49AM |
Hi the_digital_dentist
cool printer. Looks very Stable.
For faster PrintSpeed I think you can use it.
If you like to Pimp up your electronic PM me please.
We have build an Open Source Printer named BBone with 32 bit Electronic (RADDS v1.5) and 1/128 Microstepperdriver (Raps128).
Here some Links for your Inspraion :-)
[bbone.info]
[projectbuildr.de]
Here a Printsample in PET:
Mein Club: [hackerspace-ffm.de]
RADDS-Shield -> Commercial [max3dshop.org]
cool printer. Looks very Stable.
For faster PrintSpeed I think you can use it.
If you like to Pimp up your electronic PM me please.
We have build an Open Source Printer named BBone with 32 bit Electronic (RADDS v1.5) and 1/128 Microstepperdriver (Raps128).
Here some Links for your Inspraion :-)
[bbone.info]
[projectbuildr.de]
Here a Printsample in PET:
Mein Club: [hackerspace-ffm.de]
RADDS-Shield -> Commercial [max3dshop.org]
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