DIY Prusa I3 Pro B

Ok so i searced the for info about this most of waht i see isnt english so im just gona ask here,

I bought an upgraded version of Pursa I3 pro b and haven't got it working yet i followed the horrible instructions and have the thing assembled but its having a number of issues trying to print first i have a mac its recognizes the printer as a modem in network?? i tried installing drivers on the computer but still cant get it to connect so i gave up on online printing so i tried to print from sd card well the bed heats up but the wont or the nozzle heats and the bed doesn't when trying to auto home it moves both the bed and extruder to the farthest distance(away from endstop switches) and then keeps trying to go till i reset the power when doing a test print without first using auto home the message heating appears but turns in to an error: max temp and never does another thing so i said lets upgrade the firmware maybe that will fix it with the movement issues well i got the news versions of the firmware i followed the instructions and installed it on the board well it now has blank lcd and beep non stop so i used files downloaded from github for marlin reprap no luck had bugs ha had to fix because im using arduinos most current ide so not a big deal but the problem hasn't gone away the errors are fixed but still no change i waiting for the original firmware from the seller but still anticipate the original issues when i re upload the code he gives me any advice would be great im not new to programing but im new to the mechanical side of it (im great at programing applications with visual studios, unity, in c++ c# javascript and such but never had to control this much of the hardware details to drive mechanical parts) so while this makes sense to me im not sure where to find the things i need to fix id really like to get this thing running I intend to upgrade it once i can start printing parts ie make it bigger so the sooner i can get this hashed out the better thanks guys and gals for any help you can give !!!!

1.if the steppers move the wrong direction, unplug their 4pin and flip it around then plug it back in, that will get a little closer.

2.as for the max temp error, This is most likely a thermistor wire ran too close to a power supply wire, this can cause random EM noise.

3. the lcd in the new firmware is probably just set to the wrong one.most of the coding that you will need to mess with is in the configuration.h file (for marlin anyway) I would look around in there and try to familiarize yourself with its content. You most likely can fix your LCD by adding this line of code:
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
and make sure to comment out any other LCD that is defined down near line 1000 of configuration.h

Thanks for the reply! my connectors are all only able to go one way i belive that its because
the motors are set to inverse in the code (one of the resons i tryed to up date the firmware)
Ive Zip tied and routed all temp wires away from any power supply wires, i went through the
code and that line is actually already included in the program i have updated the firmware
with the original code found on github and made the necessary adjustments but still the
lcd is non functioning just blocked out the good news is the most resent update has
stopped the alarm i am reading through the code and i understand what is going on but
have no idea why it isn't working on the hardware its self Stil waiting for the seller to send original Firmware

Ok here is an update. I received the firmware from the seller, I installed it onto the board and all is fixed.
Still had the temp problem and the problem with the bed the bed was a simple fix i had the power switched
with that of the extruder(the instructions were quite horrid) that fixed that on to the code.... i went into the
code and inverted the X axis.This fixed the problem but..... it got me thinking maybe my x and y are switched
so currently it is set as follows:x axis moves the bed front and back, y axis moves the extruder left to right
is this standard? Do i have the connectors switched?Also how far of the bed should the nozzle be?
My screw for the z axis is adjustable and did not come set from the seller. So any advice on how to set
it so the is stops at the right hight would be appreciate!! Also i am attaching the zip file with the working firmware
here i will be Comparing the other versions to this to see why the newer ones broke it but anyone who runs into t
his issue as well with clone kits can find it so I tried a test print and i thought i could print directly to the glass Can I ?
it didn't stick when i tried is this just a rookie mistake?

Thank you So much for your help and suggestions!!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/27/2016 12:58AM by ScottyBoyo.

X/Y: On a standard prusa the x axis is always the extruder, though as long as you do it correctly, I see no reason you couldn't leave them switched, the only thing that may happen is your prints getting mirrored on one of both axis.

Nozzle height: Look for a guide on leveling the bed, when finished the nozzle shouldnt touch the bed but at z of 0 it should be the thickness of one sheet of paper away (i have my hotend at operating temp when leveling as it actually is longer compared to room temp)

Bed: I hear plenty of people print right on glass, though some people hairspray the bed first, if you have a heated bed it could be a matter of getting the correct temp, (different for PLA and ABS) also try printing a raft for better adhesion. Though other people coat their glass with a layer of kapton tape, its kind of expensive and needs to be replace once in a while. I had an aluminum bed and replaced it with printbite, works pretty well, haven't needed rafts. Don't worry too much about it sticking untill you have the z height correct, if the nozzle is too far away it doesnt press the filament into the bed properly, just kind of lays it down on top.


oh, btw the working firmware has the ultipanel for the LCD, I had taken a guess before, was wrong