prusa i3 v2 heating fatal error

When i try to heat my heating bed and extruder for a print, i get the fatal error: "error:heating failed, system stopped! heater_id: 0". Ive tried lowering the fan speed and changing the temperatures for the extruder/bed to heat to but still get the fatal error.

ID0 is the heater and if you're getting g that error the hot beds not goi g to work either it's a failsafe so you don't burn down your house. It's usually due to faulty wiring from the temperature sensor. If the printer can't read the temperature it's not going to heat up. I'd try checking your wires as well as thermistor.

The wiring is fine, how would i know if the thermistor is bad?

When you turn on the 3D Printer what are the temperature readings, they should measure close to room the temperature.
One quick way to test is to turn on the 3D Printer observe the temperatures then unplug one of the thermister's if the value remains the same you have a open thermister.


On my 3D Printer I keep the house a little cool, therefore I had the change
#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_998_VALUE 22.5 // Changed from 25

My 3D Printer environment was always under the minimum temperature and gave me the Heater failed error so I nudged the temperature down 2.5C.
This allowed me to start my printer when it was a little cooler on that morning, Before changing this setting I would heat up the Nozzle block with a soldering iron.
Once above the minimum temperature all functioned as normal fine. My 3D printer is in a basement and with great frequency the temperature drops below the minimum.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2018 11:29AM by Roberts_Clif.

Both bed and extruder read about 22* C, unplugged both and the values went to zero. So i should change the #define from 25 to like 21?

NO! 25 will be correct on your machine. As the minimum temp would be 15C

It works like this Base temp is 25C - 10 C so the lowest temp is 15C (59 F) the cooling affect on my aluminum block dropped the thermister temperature below 15C.
I changed the DUMMY_THERMISTOR_998_VALUE as a test. and never changed MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF this should have changed to 12.5

// Dummy thermistor constant temperature readings, for use with 998 and 999
#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_998_VALUE 25
#define DUMMY_THERMISTOR_999_VALUE 100

// Use temp sensor 1 as a redundant sensor with sensor 0. If the readings
// from the two sensors differ too much the print will be aborted.
//#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10

Do you have PID Enabled. I could never get my BED to respond to the PID without errors.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2018 01:26PM by Roberts_Clif.

Still relatively new to this, what is PID?

PID is tuning referring to the parameter adjustments of a proportional-integral-derivative.
PID needs to have a P, I and D value defined to control the nozzle or bed temperature.

P=bedKp - proportional (P) constant
I=bedKi - The integral (I) constant
D=bedKd - The derivative (D) constant

For Marlin, these values indicate the counts of the soft-PWM power control.

[reprap.org]

Can you give us some ideal what the temperature values are at the time of the failure, print a log.

Failure occurs about 10 seconds each time a sample print is started. The bed and extruder do not get above 23 degrees. However, if I heat the bed or extruder individually, the bed will get to the right temperature but the extruder won't get above 23 degrees, so this leads me to assume the extruder is to blame. Is this a setting to change? (wiring is fine)

Yes In Marlin. " lets test before changing firmware first"

OK!

We agree on the hot-end Heater! ( area )

Do you have another source of heat, Solder Iron, Hair Dryer, Ect (Turn on the Printer heat heater block with Solder Iron or what ever you have to see if the thermister temperature reading will change.

Do you have a Multi-meter?

If yes
Measure the Resistance a 40watt heater 12volts / 3.6 ohms = 3.333 amps or 24volts / 15ohms = 1.667amps
Measure the voltage across the hot-end Heater terminals to see if you actually have ~ 12volt when you try to preheat the Hot-end.
(Remimber you only have about 10 seconds before it will turn off the Power and fail) (PWM "VDC will switch¹ when at temp")
If No
I choose a ADM02 Auto Ranging Digital Multi-meter from E-Bay


** 1 Switch = will turn on and off to regulate the desired temperature)

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/21/2018 08:36PM by Roberts_Clif.

Ok I get the 12 volts for the preheat hot end of the extruder, but I wasn't sure what you meant by the "Measure the Resistance a 40watt heater 12volts"?

I also touched a soldering iron to the extruder box and the temperature reading did increase.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/23/2018 11:56AM by hughjanus.

OK.
You don't need to know what resistance is at this point. (Though Hot-end Heater has resistance of about 3.6 Ohms. )


Some Information required.

Is your 3D Printer is it a kit, Custom re-make, ect...
What is the power supply size voltage and watts.

What firmware are you using? Was it uploaded by you or the Factory? If you installed firmware, would like you to upload to a cloud storage so I could download and examine.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/23/2018 01:20PM by Roberts_Clif.

My printer is prusa i3 mk2 kit, the power supply is 110v. Im using reprapguru Marlin v4 software. I was the one who uploaded it into my arduino board. How would i go about uploading it to cloud storage so you can check?

I use Google Drive it's free and easy to use.


Store any file

Drive starts you with 15 GB of free Google online storage, so you can keep photos, stories, designs, drawings, recordings, videos – anything.

I only use it for is the 3D Printer Forums

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/23/2018 01:58PM by Roberts_Clif.

Ok i will do that, and i appreciate all the help, now if you dont hear from me i'll be on summer break for school, will you still be available to message starting again in around august.