Orca 0.42 problem printing at speed

Dear fellow reprappers,

I have succesfully built a 10mm cube from white 1.75mm PLA using Sli3er and Pronterface at a slow print setting.
But when I try to print faster I find that the material stops laying down smoothly and starts printing dots, at which point I know that the fillament will start to buckle and I disconnect.

I would really like to be able to print faster than 5mm/s for infills.
See photos for reference.

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3D Printing never sleeps
MAGICMODEL

Hmm, the cut`s seem that you maybe have to much force on the springs (its nearly cut through O.O )

second thing, is it looks like the gap between Topend of the hotend and the Filament Pulley is to large ?
Ensure that it is as short as possible.

Also try to print with a little bit higher hotend temperature.

Netherless the "Pulley"Extruder was ist not very clever design from camiel, it would be better if you change to a Wade extruder (for example Uni-X wade ; ) ) or to camiel`s new Hobbed Bolt (check his blog).
But as camiel had a accident with his bike it seems that the slowdown in shipping is back again

mfg Chri

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[chrisu02.wordpress.com] Quadmax Intel Delid Tools

Ta Chri,

Tried using the ABS (230 degrees) setting in Pronterface and just extruded the hell out of it.
Material was flowing nice and free.

Tried a couple of prints at faster setting and got ok results, albeit a little distorted (probably because of the excess heat).
Material still buckled on entry into the hotend.

Would you be able to post up a close up photo of the hotend on your Orca 0.42 please?
Do you think I would I be better of trying Skienforge?

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3D Printing never sleeps
MAGICMODEL

Depending on your ABS even 230 may be low, i had some crappy 3mm ABS at the beginning which needed 250-260° C ! (was really crap)
As the price for 1,75mm ABS is very low atm here in germany (1kg 24 €) i`m only printing with this stuff, does need much less force and printing with low 220-230° (even very small prints with 215°).

I don`t own a V42 i have a highly modified V30 printer with a selfmade V10 Hotend.

But you can finde highres pictures of the V10 hotend here : [forums.reprap.org]

or are you looking for something in special ?

mfg Chri

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[chrisu02.wordpress.com] Quadmax Intel Delid Tools

Nice one Chri,

It's interesting to see that there is a difference in quality between different materials and different thicknesses.
I corrected all the ideas that you gave me and things seem to be going a lot smoother now.
In order to print at a higher speed I did the following:

1. Adjusted the hotend so that the material feed was shorter going into the threaded rod. (helped stop buckling)
2. Used the 230 degree ABS setting (in Pronterface) for the hotend, even though I'm printing with PLA (helped stop buckling)
3. Changed all the printer speeds to 15, but most importantly changed the First layer speed to 100% (helped maintain a consistant speed, and hence flow)

All in all I think that the finer nozzle with the 1.75mm material is designed for more 'high resolution parts' i.e. smaller parts.
In future I will probably just hollow my parts out to 2mm and print perimeter only (save on material and time!)

Cheers

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3D Printing never sleeps
MAGICMODEL

You can also use a 0,5mm nozzle with the 1,75mm filament, its not limited to only small nozzles

The most importand thing now is that you change the extruder pulley to something that has really grip !

mfg Chri

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[chrisu02.wordpress.com] Quadmax Intel Delid Tools

I have my orca 0.42 in a heated chamber to minimise cracking of ABS over tall prints.
As a result the extruder is not functioning correctly.

Do I need to change all my printed parts to ABS?
OR
Is the stepper motor not performing well at the high temp build chamber?
OR
Do I need to introduce fans (pulling or pushing) air to gain air pressure?