Wilson TS Start Up Issues

I have built a Wilson TS kit purchased from MJ Rice. It is a nice kit that was packed and identified amazingly well when it arrived.
I now have it mechanically complete and powered it up only to find I have some issues with the stepper motions. My particular printer is not performing as Marty’s does in the video and I assume there is a simple solution. My printer axis seems to move exactly opposite to Marty’s when I jog them with the knob on the LCD controller. For example when I turn the knob clockwise in the x axis jog it moves to the left when viewed from the LCD side of the machine. Marty’s moves to the right. The XYand Z axis all behave in this manner, opposite of Marty’s. At first I thought I had the wiring to the steppers reversed, but I noticed something else for the first time today. In the videos when Marty turns the knob on the LCD display his cursor is moving in exactly the opposite direction that mine does also. In other words when in a menu and Marty turns the knob clockwise his cursor moves down and mine goes up. When he turns the knob counter clockwise his cursor goes up and mine goes down. Someone thought I maybe had the cables switched around on the LCD. I don’t think that is possible because of the way the connectors are keyed. I have a attached three pictures of my wiring.



I have a few other issues also. In the video the extruder drive cannot be operated until the hot end is preheated. Mine can be jogged without preheat and once again runs in an opposite direction. For example I turn the knob clock wise, the display value increments to a negative value, and the extruder runs in a manner that would pull filament in. If I turn it counter clockwise the value goes to the positive direction and the extruder runs in a way that would pull filament out of the hot end.
Also I am concerned that the main fan that is supposed to blow across the Mega board and Ramps board never comes on.
Finally there are no LEDs wired into the hot bed to indicate power is on to the board. I am wondering how these are to be wired and what type to use. I attached a picture of my hot bed.

I have taken quite a while to build the Wilson TS and I had contacted Marty initially with a few minor problems and he was great about helping me out. He seems to be extremely knowledgeable and a super nice guy. Unfortunately I am not sure anymore how to get in contact with him since when I try to contact him through the email on EBay I’m getting bounced back by EBay and do not seem to be able to find a work around.

You're firmware seem to be out of sync with your printer.
Did Marty send you any firmware file that you should be sending to the Arduino?
I got a partial kit from him, I don't know what's included in the complete kit .

You can find Marty on the forum and private message him, he should reply in a timely matter. I do have his email, but I'm not sure he'd want me to share it.

Anyway, I have my own Wilson TS (see [forums.reprap.org]) so I can definitely help you.
I got the latest Marlin firmware and changed it here and there to fit my needs (Graphical LCD and what not) so I can't send you my own config file, but it's quite easy to figure out.

PLEASE, put some solder on the heated bed connections! There will be a good amount of power going through those wire and you don't want those moving around freely.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/26/2015 11:06AM by andreq.

Thanks for responding. I heard from Marty also via the forum and he then
gave me his email address. He seems to be a great guy. I just couldn't
figure out how to get hold of him for a bit there.

Also thanks for the tip on the hot bed wiring. I wondered about that. It
looked like it was unsoldered but I wasn't sure what the deal was because
the wires stayed so flat against the connection.

I am really looking forward to seeing this thing print.

By the way Marty concurred on the Marlin firmware. He sent me his config.h
file last night. I haven't gotten that all figured out yet.

I hope to get invovled with the forum and the RipRap community.

Thanks again for your help.

Maker Guy