First Build Hiwin slide CoreXY. Need help selecting electrical parts.

Duet is specified as 35V absolute maximum, Smoothieboard is specified as 12 to 24V. I don't know about the others.

One other small disadvantage of 24V is that you need to either source a 24V hot end fan, or use a 12V fan and add a 12V regulator. Similarly, if you use a print cooling fan then it needs to be 24V.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

. Still have not decided which 32 bit board I am getting and so have not ordered it.

Since these power supplies ship in two days, I can wait a bit to order...... but $24 is cheap!!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2015 01:32AM by patrickrio.

Ordered hot end with 24 volt everything. ordered 12v fan and heater block from ebay for $4. I am covered either way.

Quote
patrickrio
well, I ordered a Ramps kit as a backup since it was cheap. Still have not decided which 32 bit board I am getting and so have not ordered it.

Since these power supplies ship in two days, I can wait a bit to order...... but $24 is cheap!!!

You could always get one of each which will allow you to run the Heat bed from 24V (Via a sevenswitch or some other Mosfet driver.

Doug

Hi Dc42.

So, I just bought the Duet... now I need to get the six endstops. I just noticed now that there are only 3 axis sensor connections and one proximity sensor conection which I assume is used for self leveling.

Do I wire 2 x axis endstops to the same connections and the printer just knows which end it hit???

Is there a ready built hall effect sensor I can use or should I pick optical?

what are your suggestions for endstops?

I also still need to buy a bowden extruder, or make one... but I am pretty confused on which ones work the best.

I just use standard micro switches. But you should only need 1 endstop per axis.

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greghoge.com

HUGE 3D PRINTER PARTS SALE!!!

For the Duet, there is a PWM Fan, which I assume you would use a thermistor to adjust, but the only two thermistor connections on the board are for hot end regulation and heated bed regulation. How do you hook up the fan to be automatically modulated?

Parts I am still looking for:

Extruder proximity sensor.- what is my best option? looking for very lightweight.

Bearings and pulleys

Manual adjustable feet for whole machine leveling.

Manual adjustment for heated bed. what is the best system for adjusting level?

Insulation for bottom of heated bed. What is the best solution?

should I buy something to go on top of the PCB heated bed?

I am about to buy rails and the motors.

As gmh39 says, you only need 1 endstop per axis. You can put each one at either the lower or the upper limit of the axis, the software will determine which by reading the configuration in your config.g file on the SD card.

The PWM fan isn't normally controlled by a thermistor, it's controlled by commands in your gcode file that your slicer program generates. The hot end fan (if your hot end needs one) is normally connected directly to the 12V or 24V supply.

For insulating the underside of the heated bed, I use corrugated cardboard, but cork is also a popular choice. For the top, I use an aluminum heat spreader plate screwed to the PCB heater, and 3mm or 4mm float glass on top of that. Not everyone bothers with a heat spreader. Photo frame clips are good for attaching the glass to the PCB + heat spreader. They allow you to remove the glass quickly so that you can replace it and start another print immediately, while you allow the print to cool before removing it from the glass.

For the extruder proximity sensor there are various choices. I make a board intended for the Ormerod that provides a differential IR proximity sensor, illumination of the print, hot end fan control, hot end on indication, and all the connectors for the hot end. See [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. It works very nicely with the Duet. I have some PCBs on order for a smaller version that provides just the proximity sensor function.

For the bed levelling, 3-point height-adjustable mounting of the bed is normally used, but the detailed design will depend on the mechanism you use to move the bed vertically.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Will this motor be good for the Z-axis???

[www.aliexpress.com]

Quote
patrickrio
Will this motor be good for the Z-axis???

[www.aliexpress.com]

That's the same motor as the ones used on my Ormerod (including the Z axis motor), but with a leadscrew attached. It's fine in my Ormerod, but there it's a driving a 0.8mm pitch threaded rod, not a leadscrew. If it's your only Z axis motor, you might be better off using a motor with more torque.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

figuring out the placement for filament spools.. what are the dimensions of the largest size of filament spool????

for my lead screw, maybe I can just change the thread from 8x4 and get more force by increasing the revolutions for distance? I think I can have any standard thread made....

What thread would be good with this motor???

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2015 02:25PM by patrickrio.

Quote
patrickrio
for my lead screw, maybe I can just change the thread from 8x4 and get more force by increasing the revolutions for distance? I think I can have any standard thread made....

What thread would be good with this motor???

I'm sorry, that's outside the realms of my experience. I'm guessing that it could cope with a somewhat courser thread than the 0.8mm on the Ormerod, but how much courser, I don't know. As it is only rated at 1.33A, there is little scope for increasing the current to get more torque. That's why I suggest a different motor, a longer one that provides more torque but still with a rated current of less than 2A. This one [www.aliexpress.com] has around double the torque, but they appear to sell it only in lots of 4.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

looks like I can get 8x1.5 threading also.

better choice?

Dc42, I am trying to understand the effect of threadrate. I am looking at the chart at [reprap.org] and also [www.carbidedepot.com] so it appears that the Omerod has M5 threads, right??? On the Z-Axis with the same stepper motor as mine?

So that would mean that if I got the same thread, my z axis would probably work fine with the same motor. Do you have any problems with z-axis speed?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2015 05:47PM by patrickrio.

I find the Z axis speed a little slow on the Ormerod, but I guess that's typical for a Cartesian printer. I have it set to 100mm/min maximum. Higher might be possible if I increase the current beyond the 1000mA that I have set. The Ormerod uses a M5 threaded rod with 0.8mm pitch and 16x microstepping, so 4000 microsteps/mm. I suspect a proper leadscrew would be better than a threaded rod, provided the pitch isn't too much greater. But I'm outside my comfort zone discussing this - my specialities are electronics and firmware, not mechanics.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

OK, I am going to try this motor with 8x4 threads. If it fails, I am just out $27.... I think that going with the 24v power supply will also give me more Amperage headroom on this motor too.. right?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2015 08:45PM by patrickrio.

No, 24V gives you more voltage headroom, which may be useful where high speeds are important or if you are connecting several motors in series.

I am not familar with leadscrew sizes. What is the pitch of an 8x4 leadscrew?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2015 04:02AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
No, 24V gives you more voltage headroom, which may be useful where high speeds are important or if you are connecting several motors in series.

I am not familar with leadscrew sizes. What is the pitch of an 8x4 leadscrew?

DAve

Think that is a 4 mm pitch that is the usual way of naming them (but it could also be 4 start which would probably be 6 or 8 mm)

The one I have for my CoreXY are TR10x2 which are single start thread's at 2 mm pitch.

Doug

ps RepRapPro have now got the Shields on their webpage at £54.17 + vat think I will be going with a DueX4 @ £55 inc Vat (especially has Tony has now modified them to deal with the Analogue gnd issue).

did the package arrive yet

It's a shame RRP is charging so much for the shield. I guess they can get away with it for now, until the demand slows down. Interesting to hear that Tony has modded the X4 boards, that will make them an easier option to use.

The package arrived today, thanks!

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Yes, 8mm diameter, 4mm per motor revolution. Other common sizes are 8x8, 8x12 and 8x20

Since I last said I was getting a somewhat underpowered stepper for my z axis, things have changed for the better. I found a NEMA 23 motor that has 62 oz inches and is only 30mm long. fits the space I have perfectly and has plenty of torque. It ended up costing me about 5 dollars more than the best price i could find on the standard Nema 17 48mm with 400mm lead screw.

Holding Torque:
4.4 kg.cm
Type:
Hybrid
Phase:
2
Current / Phase:
1.7A
Certification:
CE,ROHS
Step Angle(degrees):
1.8
Model Number:
Nema 23
SIZE:
57x57x30mm
Screw length:
400mm
diameter of axle:
Tr8*4

This is the bowden extruder design I am leaning toward, mated with the E3D V6. If anyone has a better suggestion please let me know.

[www.thingiverse.com]

Here is a list of available metric trapezoidal lead screw threads.... notice the variety available for 8mm lead screws.

[www.helixlinear.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2015 02:59PM by patrickrio.

I am pretty sure that this motor and lead screw combo is WAY overkill for this application. I think that the smaller motor would have worked well for the z-axis since trapezoidal threads are MUCH more efficient at transferring torque to linear motion. If you think about it, it makes sense. BUT I have no experience in what happens real world in a 3D printer.....

Normal machine screws are designed to give you mechanical advantage with the use of long wrenches and power tools to permanently connect objects together. The thread is DESIGNED to have high static friction to affect permanent connection. As a result, it is actually very inefficient at transferring torque to linear motion.

Lead screw threads, in contrast, are designed to transfer torque to linear motion. The most efficient threads are square cut, but they are difficult to tool and also are not forgiving to wear on the screw or nut.

Trapezoidal and Acme screw patterns are actually much easier to cut, and they have the advantage of lasting a long time if you use an anti lash nut.

All of this is really overkill in our use though, My lead screw is capable of accuracies above .01mm with anti lash and the right stepper... and also capable of putting a few hundred pounds of force on an object. I am not sure of how well the stepper tech works in a 3d printer, but the mechanics of that screw are very sound.

So, Dc42, I started ordering parts for setting up the head bed with aluminum... and I found that my heat bed already has an aluminum build plate that works as a heat spreader. They say that you can build strait on the anodized aluminum. In yur experience does this work? Or should I still buy the borosilicate glass?

I will be using z axis constructions similar to the attached files:

what bed leveling construct should I use? I was thinking 3 point with 2 thumb screws, but is auto leveling an option??

Quote
patrickrio
So, Dc42, I started ordering parts for setting up the head bed with aluminum... and I found that my heat bed already has an aluminum build plate that works as a heat spreader. They say that you can build strait on the anodized aluminum. In yur experience does this work? Or should I still buy the borosilicate glass?

I recommend you print on glass. It will be flatter than your aluminium is likely to be. It's too easy to gouge the aluminium with the print head, or when using tools to remove a print. Another advantage of printing on glass is that you can have several print beds. When one print has finished, remove it from the aluminium, put it aside to cool, put another glass plate on the aluminium, and then you can start another print immediately.

I use ordinary float glass, not borosilicate. I got my local glass merchant to cut me several glass bed from 4mm float glass for a few pounds. With a good heat spreader underneath, it won't crack unless you subject to to thermal shock, such as by spilling cold water on it when it is at 110C.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks Dc42.

Here in NYC, getting anyone to do anything for you besides telling you to f**k off costs more than it costs to order several perfectly sized Borosilicate glass beds from robotdigg.com

Since I am waiting for parts now anyway, the glass can take it's time to arrive right to my dooooooor....

Still trying to figure out my options for the proximity sensor for nozzle height. Your lightweight option looks good. What other options do I have?

What are the picture frame clips you were talking about for the hot bed????

What designs do you recommend for hot bed leveling???? automatic?

If I go 24v, do I need to do something to supply the Duet 5v or 3.3v power????? or is that already on the Duet????

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2015 07:36PM by patrickrio.

I Have another candidate for extruder mechanism, from the delta printer page.... by AndrewBCN

Pics of the design are here:

[forums.reprap.org]

Parts are starting to arrive.... the last thing I ordered is the first to arrive...

I now have a Duet control board, but nothing to control......