Prusa i3 PLA settings

I recently got some good advice here in getting my sons i3 homing issues fixed so I figured I’d come back for some more help. The settings offered by reprapguru are for abs and very vague at that. I am printing with PLA, using repetier host, slic3r. The first few test prints went horrible. Upon start of print the first few passes of the skirt ring, no filament extrudes and then as it does each pad afterwards wants to grab and make a complete mess. I guess what I need to figure out it do I print on straight glass, bed temperature, nozzle temp, speed, flow. So basically everything, lol, as a good starting point. I will take a crappy print to tweak just hoping to get through enough to not have to kill the print do to the head dragging the previous layers all over.

The process is simple, and yet sometimes hard to do in the beginning. You will learn but will have less hair on your head before this happens.
The trick is the get the entire bed the same distance from the nozzle.

1. After Auto Homing. using the LCD controls lower the Nozzle to the Bed making sure that the spacing between the bed and the nozzle is about the width of a standard sheet of paper.
2. If this is not the case you must adjust the Z-End-stop until it is. This is why the First object I print is a way to adjust the end_stop switch using a thumb screw.

Like this
[www.thingiverse.com]

3. After you get the center of the bed adjusted, then is is time to adjust the four corners of the bed.
4. This is done with the Bed leveling screws.
5. After Auto Homing. using the LCD controls Move Z to lower the Nozzle to the Bed
6. Disable the Steppers so you can move the Nozzle around the Bed measuring at the four corners, and adjusting the Bed leveling screws so the spacing between the bed and the nozzle is the width of a standard sheet of paper.
Or use the Move X and Move Y to position the nozzle close to the corners, and adjusting the Bed leveling screws so the spacing between the bed and the nozzle is about the width of a standard sheet of paper.

7. Now that the Bed is about .2mm above the Bed now you Use Hair spray on the glass so the Pla will stick to the glass.

Youtube videos helped me a lot during the learning processes.

Here is one I found Searching for Pursa i3 Rework - Manual Bed leveling

[www.youtube.com]

Roberts_Clif

You are all over it. I will try the hairspray trick on my next go around. I couldn’t view the settings you sent me in the other thread. What would be your suggestion as far as flow and not getting any PLA to lay down in the first few passes. Also are you suggesting no blue tape and just hairsparay on the glass only?

I use 7-Zip It can be downloaded Here then you simply extract the files in the Ziped file.

After Unzipping, The Setting I sent you can be loaded using Cura 15.04.6 or Cura 2.6.2

Using
File
Open Profile

Quote
indians010
Roberts_Clif

You are all over it. I will try the hairspray trick on my next go around. I couldn’t view the settings you sent me in the other thread. What would be your suggestion as far as flow and not getting any PLA to lay down in the first few passes. Also are you suggesting no blue tape and just hairsparay on the glass only?

I get Bored Easily, And this gives me something to do that I enjoy, so it is this or the TV and My TV Favorites are on Christmas break. (GOT) Not for kids

HictopSettings28.ini

HictopSettings15.ini

Some Print on Blue Tape, I Print on Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape.


Shown Below
[youtu.be]
[youtu.be]

Do cura settings translate to slic3r settings? I guess I’m not dead set on slic3r, I guess just what they suggested.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/18/2017 08:50PM by indians010.

Have not used Slic3r much!

Forum Has a whole section on Slic3r

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/18/2017 09:20PM by Roberts_Clif.