ABS

Hi, New here, currently thinking about ordering a Fisher, Seems a good way to get started with 3D printing.

I have a question, apart from PLA (and the PLA CarbonFil products) has anyone tried printing small parts in ABS or any other materials.

I think ABS support is the last box I need to tick at least for very small parts.

For abs you need a heated bed, fisher doesnt have a heated bed, some have had good results printing hips though

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RepRapPro Mendel 3 Tricolour
RepRapPro Fisher
-Carbon Arms
-Easy adjust Carriage+effector
-axis stiffness mods
HE3D -600 delta
-Duet 0.8.5
-PanelDue
-DC42 Height probe
-RobotDigg metal components
Simplyfy3D
RS Design Spark CAD

I've seen people printing abs without a heated bed by using blue painters tape and adding a brim that curls instead of the part.

Does anyone know the max temperature supported by the extruder. As if this was hot enough for ABS then I'd be happy to experiment.

There's enough 'experimenting' at this level of 3D printing without ABS. I am sure that the Fisher can do ABS, but not Nylon. However, after 4 months I still haven't gotten around to trying it. PLA is a much better way to get started with 3D printing.

The only other filament tried with success for myself is PETG.
PRZ wrote a almost complete guide in another thread?

Well, my Carbon Nano Tube ABS just arrived so we'll see how it goes...

Actually, might be a week or so before I can try it. Ghost and Pumpkin production currently in full swing.

I have printed Nylon (Bridge) and HDGlass on a Fisher before.
Adhesion is a bit tricky with the nylon (works somewhat when using PVA on BuildTak), but the nozzle reaches 260°C without problem.

I wouldn't bother with ABS, produces fumes, warps like crazy and by now there are a few better alternatives on the market if you really need something tougher than PLA.

Interesting about the Nylon!

I have Carbon Fibre PLA which I am going to try. However, I couldn't find the Carbon Nano Tube in PLA. I plan to try small parts for now. In fact what is the smallest 'part' that can be printed, 0.4x0.4x0.2mm?

Hi Theo,

I have E3D hot ends on several printers. They wrote an interesting piece on printing with carbon based filament and just how severely it wears your print nozzle.
Carbon wears so badly and mishapes the nozzle that they sell a stainless steel one just for carbon,

Don't take my word for it, just have a look on their website and see what you think.

Cheers!

Ian

Thanks for the info!

I jump on this thread for two questions concerning exotic filaments prints :

- Does the Fisher support high temperature prints (240-260°C ) ?
- Since the nozzle is in stainless steel, is it ok for Colorfabb XT-CF20 ?

Thank you for your answers,

Johann

Yes and Yes.
You might consider Formfutura CarbonFil instead of the XT-CF20 though. I have printed both and have to say I get way better results with CarbonFil. It's also cheaper.
Also these 'carbon based' filaments are more of a cosmetic thing. Parts are somewhat stiffer than without the fibre, but they are also a bit less strong and more brittle.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/30/2015 10:47AM by floppah.

Thank you for your reply !

I have already a spool of XT-CF20, so I finish it, but you are true, these are expensive and I don't really know the real difference. I use it mainly for my quad racer arms.

1/ I did not checked the ADC converter on my Fisher ; test on another Duet shown that all ADC were off by +/-10°C.

That told, I assume that my temperature indication is ~10°C over the real one and :
- I have run the hotend up to 295°C, which is the maximum, because if an oscillation in the temperature regulation drive the temperature over 300°C, that shut down the hotend. This occured me a few times. That stop the extrusion while hotend is cold, but the print movement continue.

- I have used 2.5 kg of PETG at an average temperature of 285°C. That is not a huge amount of filament, but that show you could safely use the hotend at 260-270°C

The risk is to destroy the thermistor or its sleeve. This is reasonnably easy to replace. The thermistor used in the fisher is a bit different from those used on other 3D printer, so you cannot buy 'standard' thermistor and shall order to RRP. Cost low, shipping quite high from UK. it is better to order 1 or 2 thermistor while ordering other stuff. Dont know if they propose the sleeve as spare part ?

The Fisher hotend is quite nice, but it is designed for PLA, with a relatively short heat zone, hence not ideal for other materials, which drive to increase a bit the temperature for proper fusion. In fact, it limit the usable speed for these other materials.

Nylon works after a fashion, but is liable to curling, I found taping some of the perf board pcb to the bed and having a large raft fixed this, as the holes in the pcb get filled with nylon which gives it some adhesion.