Hi Gesti,
I hope your ambitious project works out!
I only want to encourage you to be open minded and learn from others successes and failures.
So my #1 tip would be to read a lot more here before you start planning.
Like this thread and many others.
There are some big technical issues when you scale a printer larger.
For instance, some have started builds without understanding how much their structure will deflect, or how much power will be required to heat the build plate, or how long it will take to heat, or how much heat will be generated. That thread shows how important it is to be open to advice.
It is 10 times harder to build a huge printer that prints accurately - it must be extremely rigid - the larger it is the more mass the moving parts have and so it must move slower or make shaky prints, or miss steps! So it is even harder to make a large printer print fast. When you know the reasons why - then you will be ready.
The build plate must be extremely flat, or use PIR foam.
It must be enclosed and heated (and insulated) for most materials.
The next big hurdle is the hot-end and extruder. If you are going to print large then you will need a high volume setup. These already exist and can of course output many different extrusion widths, so I'm unsure of what you are proposing there.
Reliability needs to be your #1 requirement, because prints will take a long time. So get good electronics, like a Smoothieboard, or Duet, and print from an SD card. You may need external stepper motor drivers if you plan on using larger motors too.
I encourage you to fully model (in a CAD program) your printer before starting, and then post the images here before starting the build - there are lots of folks here that will offer (usually) good advice
I will stop myself now - rather than re-do all those threads I will urge you again to search here and read all you can about others who are building big printers. The time taken will be worth it.
And lastly, it would be a good idea to gain experience with a smaller build first.
FYI: Colored 3D printing uses CMYKW (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, White) instead of RGB. Here is an
example.
Hope that helps!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2016 09:26PM by Paul Wanamaker.
My printer: Raptosaur - Large Format Delta - [
www.paulwanamaker.wordpress.com]
Can you answer questions about Calibration, Printing issues, Mechanics? Write it up and improve the
Wiki!