I have dual extruders on my Printrbot Metal Plus and I generally advise people to steer clear of them. I always say it squares the difficulty. First there's a calibration. It's not so hard, but remove a hot end or extruder to service it and the chances are you'll need to set calibrate the extruder spacing. Next there's the leveling issue. If your idle nozzle z-height is too low (and too low meaby JonS - General
Quotemsaeger QuoteJonS Tom Sandladerer already has one that he's going to review, according to his latest video: Tom Sandladerer's Extruder/Hotend Video Hopefully we won't have to wait too long for his review. Can't wait for that the sale ends Sunday :-) What sale? Just buy one then and review it for everyone.by JonS - General
Tom Sandladerer already has one that he's going to review, according to his latest video: Tom Sandladerer's Extruder/Hotend Video Hopefully we won't have to wait too long for his review.by JonS - General
I backed it, but it'll need a miracle now to reach its goal. I hope they try again by another method.by JonS - General
Srek, those prints look nice. Thanks for the photos and info. I don't know if the eSun and Polymaker materials are the same, but I see that the latter has their PC-Plus in clear, white and black.by JonS - General
QuoteSrek What type of PC are you printing? I am currently using the new ePC from esun. It prints beautifully @255°C on a 110°C heated aluminum bed prepared with 3dlac. I am using my PEEK/PTFE Merlin hotend with an 0.3mm nozzle. I'd love to see some photos of your prints. p.s. I've been contemplating getting some of Polymaker's new PC-Plus polycarbonate. I'm not sure I have a lot of need for itby JonS - General
QuotePRZ Hello, from information got from this thread and the filtration thread, completed with own experience of charcoal filter, I have added a Filtration chapter in the reprap wiki Health and Safety page and also somewhat reorganised the page. While vacuum cleaner filters are often made from HEPA material, the folds mean that the filters may not pass a HEPA test themselves. I used one in myby JonS - General
Not answering the OP's question, but crystal cat litter is silica gel. That's a pretty cheap and easy (local) way to buy silica gel.by JonS - General
Quotetmorris9 I am looking into a camera designed just for timelapse called Brinno ( ) I am waiting to hear back from the manufacturer to see if it will withstand the heat. Ask Brinno if they'll tell you which image sensor they are using. There's a fair chance that it's one made by my company (we do have 1.3MP, 4.2µm pixel sensors), so if they give you the part number I can tell you if it's a cby JonS - General
GoPros are pretty challenged in their thermal design. The insides run hot even in normal ambient temperatures. As 3DRapidClone said, the camera will probably shut down. Even if it didn't, the high sensor temperature would degrade the image quality.by JonS - General
I built a air filtration system that uses a filter from a vacuum cleaner (which is made with HEPA filter material, but that doesn't guarantee that it's HEPA because the folds can degrade the material's performance) followed by a bed of activated carbon granules sitting on a HEPA layer extracted from a surgical mask. I used a 120mm x 120mm PC case cooler fan. I tried a generic fan from my local Bby JonS - General
I built an enclosure for my Printrbot Metal Plus. It works very well at keeping the noise down (so printing doesn't wake my baby), but there's a downside from the high ambient temperature inside. If I'm printing with a high bed temperature the filament becomes softer, sometimes leading to extruder jams (around the drive gear, a little like with flexible filaments). That might have been fixed withby JonS - General
QuoteWZ9V I'd be happy if I could find PEI that was as easy to apply as BuildTak. That 468MP tape is a royal pain, it gets all bunched up on the sides. I ordered some 12x12 sheets of it to see if that's any easier to work with than the 1 inch strips. I didn't have any problems applying 468MP tape. I started on one edge with the back side release tape on, with the opposite edge of the tape heldby JonS - General
I've pretty much given up on HIPS. I wanted to use it as a disolvable support material, but I couldn't get it to adhere to the bed very well. What's more, it didn't adhere to itself very well either! I've wondered if my Hatchbox "HIPS for PLA" was bad and if I should try a different version. If you want something semi-flexible (harder than Ninjaflex, but deformable), have you considered somethiby JonS - General
Quoterealthor I've read that PEI is a good option used by some printers. How do you stick PEI to the aluminum? And as far as I know PEI can be used to max 217deg or so. What about printing higher temp plastics? Can one print straight on the aluminum? Use 468MP transfer tape. You can find sheets on Amazon. Search for "TapeCase 468MP". I bought 12' x 12' sheets.by JonS - General
Quotearnab05even i am curious about the mechanism he uses to cut a yarn at the end of a layer. Me too. Depending on the technique, this approach for strengthening prints might be applicable beyond CF reinforcement of nylon. If it can scale up, it might be a useful way of increasing the strength of printed concrete walls. Possibility even using renewable materials like hemp rope. Vertical rebarby JonS - General
PLA is only really biodegradable in an industrial composter heated to 140°F (60°) fed with a constant supply of microbes. In normal landfill, PLA takes >100 years to biodegrade. I don't think it'd be good in the digestive tract of your guinea pig.by JonS - General
Normal PLA filament is not approved as FDA food safe. I wouldn't use it. There are plenty of food-safe filaments though: Taulman T-Glase, Formfutura HDGlass, etc. However, I guess this is safe for contact with food, which is different from eating it!by JonS - General
I pressed mine under weights overnight, and that was it.by JonS - General
I bought mine off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 I can't quite recall how I applied mine. I believe I followed a recommendation on a thread on SeeMeCNC. I didn't bend the PEI. I do know that. I also applied the entire sheet, not strips. I probably started at one side with the adhesive film curved upwards and gradualby JonS - General
This video made me realize how much to the design of hot ends there really is: E3D at 2015 MidWest Reprap Festival The video and audio quality is poor, but it's worth watching. If you want to skip the intro to E3D as a company, jump to 3:42.by JonS - General
Foxsmart filament is very good indeed, esp. given the low price ($18 for PLA). They used to only sell PLA, now they've added ABS and TPU, which I've not tried. Thee only real negative is the diameter of the center of the spool is too small, making it hard (high force) to feed the end of the reel. That causes me to waste a little, but given the price I can live with that. http://www.foxsmart.clby JonS - General
I keep thinking about semi see-through bikinis. But then I catch myself and go back to thinking about this thread.by JonS - General
QuoteGRAYWOLF Do you know about the "Wood" plugin for cura? http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_Wood I tried that once. It didn't work with newer versions of Cura.by JonS - General
A larger nozzle means less detail in the print, and less sharp corners. I'm can't comment about drilling out nozzles. I've never tried that.by JonS - General
QuoteRalphyDANG IT I just saw that ColorFabb has a 30% wood filament with finer particles. While their own site says very little about it, other places claim it'll work with a 0.4mm nozzle. However, they also say that it doesn't change color with temperature, so banding effects aren't achievable. ColorFabb Woodfill Fineby JonS - General
What hotend do you have? Can you get different nozzle sizes for it?by JonS - General
QuoteRalphywell i have the .4mm so maybe it will jam? It will jam!by JonS - General
One key point is to make sure you're using a large-enough nozzle. I tried printing Laywoo with a 0.4mm nozzle and it jammed. At least 0.5mm is required, probably larger than that to be safe.by JonS - General
I've used both Kapton and PEI. After switching to PEI there's no way I'll go back to Kapton. Mostly I'm printing PLA, but I've had success on PEI with ColorFabb XT (PETG?) too. I've got some other filaments (like T-glase and NinjaFlex) that I'll get around to trying eventually too. I've not tried ABS and probably never will. The only learning experience I had to get over with PEI is that the actby JonS - General