Hello, I was wondering if anyone had swapped out their control board for a smoothieboard in a micromake d1 printer and would be willing to share their configuration file and/or some tips? It would be greeaaatly appreciated! Thanks.by ryul - General
Thanks So, it sounds like I need to switch out the other two timing pulleys to be the same size as the one that I replaced. Since all the timing pulleys will be a different size than what the printer came with, do I need to reconfigure anything inside of cura / repetier host?by ryul - General
Hello! So I've got a micromake kossel and I've got some questions Google hasn't been able to answer that I hoped someone here could: I have a slightly smaller timing gear on one of the stepper motors that drives the belts for an axis. Is there a way to configure repetier host to compensate, or do all the steppers need the same size of timing gear? I am looking to upgrade my effector to a dualby ryul - General
Quotedc4212V 6A is too small to handle any 3D printer IMO. The starting point is about 12V 10A or 24V 5A for printers without a heated bed. Most 12V bed heaters take 10A or more, making 12V 20A the absolute minimum for a 3D printer with a heated bed. It's best to have some margin, and a 25A PSU costs very little more than a 20A one, which is why I recommend 12V 25A as the starting point. Your 12Vby ryul - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 The Chinese LED PSUs are fine in my experience as long as they are adequately rated. For a typical 12V printer with a 10A bed heater, I suggest a 25A one. Cheap ATX PSUs typically have very poor regulation on the 12V output. Good brands such as Corsair are better but cost a lot more. I want to preface this by saying that I am not saying you are wrong, just sharing what has happened thby ryul - Delta Machines
Quoteryul Quotemeq123 Temp sensor will only cause the heater to be switched on or off (via RAMPs), so that has no extraneous effect on the PSU. That's good to know. It means the problem is almost certainly not the temp sensor. It was still drawing 2 amps after it peaked at 180 degrees, which if the sensor was under-reporting it wouldn't do - it would turn of completely. Thanks! Quotemeq123Yoby ryul - Delta Machines
Quotemeq123 Temp sensor will only cause the heater to be switched on or off (via RAMPs), so that has no extraneous effect on the PSU. That's good to know. It means the problem is almost certainly not the temp sensor. It was still drawing 2 amps after it peaked at 180 degrees, which if the sensor was under-reporting it wouldn't do - it would turn of completely. Thanks! Quotemeq123You said youby ryul - Delta Machines
Quotemeq123 Either that PSU is shot, or woefully underrated for your print needs I was thinking that that might be the case. It is a 12v 16.5 amp but I wonder if it is malfunctioning. The voltage is (a bit) low, especially when current is being drawn. I am currently swapping out the heating cartridge. I've been wondering if the temperature sensor has been malfunctioning (that it is under-repby ryul - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Get a multimeter if you don't have one already, and measure the voltage at the power input terminals to the electronics. Assuming you have a 12V system, then it should be close to 12V even with the bed heater on. I suspect you are getting a lot less. Good thinking! I am reading 11.37 on the power supply's screw terminals when the printer is unplugged, 10.27 with it plugged in and nothby ryul - Delta Machines
Hello, I've built a Micromake delta and everything seems to work fine except that the hotend can't get past 180 degrees. There is a fan that is constantly running that if disabled will allow the hotend to get hotter, but without the fan the PLA further up softens and can't push through the hotend. If I set my heated bed to >0 then the hotend can't get hot at all. I've gone through and doubby ryul - Delta Machines