you need to experiment with the number for retraction, as the .1mm is a guess. With bowden setups, there could be a much longer retraction to account for the filament being compressed (bunched up with the tube). Slicer programs use different names for this retraction and replacement. Kisslicer uses prime and suck, so you can tweak it until you are happy.by davew_tx - General
The stratasys design has the air intake in the lower section, blows over a heater element, then exhausts with a thin blade-like vent pointed across build layer. there are two blower systems, one on each side, blowing at each other, which creates a temperature controlled bath at the point of depositing. The chamber thermocouple probe is located in the lower corner. no thermistors are used by strby davew_tx - General
you should be sure the 5V or 6V you're giving the servo is clean and strong. Most of the 5V you find around RAMPs on header pins is only able to do mA currents and won't handle the power needs of a servo. in our kickstarter update #5, we talk about turning on and off servo power and logic to help servos stop jittering. It's a long read, but could be useful. kick link sending the PWM mosfetby davew_tx - General
is the servo near a stepper? like the extruder motor? can you create a short wiring harness and put the servo near your controller board. That would eliminate the long wires. If it runs smooth, then you are picking up noise from the wire bundle going to the head.by davew_tx - General
is it a small R/C style of servo? I found that having them close to stepper motors would cause erratic movement. jittery, inconsistent. if you used a lot of force to push on the horn, you could have damaged the servo. you might try to gently pull out on the arm. I had binding happen in the internal gears if I force on arms.by davew_tx - General
that looks pretty simple. I don't think it works on Uprint chips, am i right?by davew_tx - General
experience. college won't give you that. sure, you get the academic knowledge, but you need to hold a thing, bend it and get a sense of it's strength, yield, toughness, etc, mechanical common sense is something that you either have or don't. I've seen many engineers fail at have common sense, which is not because they got B's in college, but they just don't get it. just get started doing it yby davew_tx - General
I've had mixed luck with direct driving off of the stepper shaft. If the stepper builds up heat, maybe from being under sized and over-amped to give the torque, then the hot stepper will eventually soften the PLA at the tooth area. I've used fans or selected big enough motors that can just run at low amps and provide the torque. separating the motor using a gear pair takes the heat off of the tooby davew_tx - General
that torque website is ballscrew_torque I've run plenty of heavy axis using NEMA 23, but used the black box drivers like the 2M542. 3 - 425ozin steppers would only draw about 1.5A when running and had tons of torque. Those box drivers seem to work everytime, and I struggled getting the little chip sized drivers giving me nice results. It did happen, but I settled on integrated Rambo boards orby davew_tx - General
I'd try to drive a motor outside of your printer. you might have mechanism issues. Also, verify you have the wiring on the motor coils correct. I've found different brands of motors use their own blue/yellow/red/green pairings.by davew_tx - General
I'd avoid a hollow box and unsupported printing. Use infill and also several layers for skin or top layers. stretching out a road across unsupported air is a Varsity level of stunt. You won't get there easily, until you've paid some dues. That being said, it's likely one of these reasons: too hot. lower temp and practice extrude until it just barely sticks to itself when it falls into a pileby davew_tx - General
Question is: What do you want make with your collection of machines? If you just want to play around with the next thing, then just get either or both, play and have fun and learn etc. You might consider the CNC DIY milling machine now. You could then use your i3 and that to make most every type of hobby DIY equipment. As you know, there are great electronics and softwares to control all oby davew_tx - General
all of that is certainly a great idea. except the donate my big investment and money maker to science. I saw in Ebay where a guy was selling a reprogramming box for $400. I think it did the chips others than Uprints. He probably was making a pretty penny, but the pitch was you could recoup the investment on just a couple of rolls. Never heard of Upwork, but checked out the website. Cool soby davew_tx - General
Some ideas buy a dry erase board and provide markers. they aren't cheap. paint the wall with dry erase paint (Home Depot). Or paint the wall with BullsEye primer or something like Kilz. then paint it gloss white. Then paint again at the school yearend. will likely cover most everything. or just pay the deposit if 9 coats of paint at the end of the year doesn't do the trick. cover it inby davew_tx - General
busy summer is over and I'm ready to use some Bolson material, but....... my Uprint is now dead. Gets warmed up, might print about 10 layers, then it just rams the head against one side (left) and errors out. Code is something like 14/129 which is Toggle head failure. Seems to just fly past the extents, which is odd, like it forgot it's own limits. It wakes up and calibrates, seeing all endby davew_tx - General
So i put their adapters on thingiverse. too large for attaching here. They were provide by Bolson and look like what you'd expect. I'm anxious to see some prints and have some plastic on the way. I think they're getting traction with their product now and are trying to sign up distributors and folks willing to buy and sell in large quantities. That Argyle Materials is one, as someone abby davew_tx - General
I haven't been here for a while. . Kind of gave up on 3D printing after my failed Kickstarter (xtruder) and focusing on family and work for a while. I still get emails asking about swapping. crazy. I just reply about Bolson and don't know of another solution. So, then I talked with the Bolson guys and they are selling spools with 56cu-in for about $200. When I buy OEM spools, they cost me $by davew_tx - General
Bolson Materials is very close to releasing Uprint materials with a chip solution. Note sure how it works, and they will keep it secret, You'd be surprised, but I get a couple of emails a month from people wanting to trade with me. they don't read the thread past the headline/title to know that it doesn't work.by davew_tx - General
no, I think avoiding the gel/sand concept is a good idea. Open discussions about it are great, and continue by all means. Often, discussions about one idea will lead to another idea and another, ending with a solution that solves the problem. I think using PVA or even HIPS is a good support material. You seem to state the problem that is already solved in my mind. The better idea is done nby davew_tx - General
PVA most slicers (Slic3r and Kisslicer for sure) allow you to assign a second extruder to the support only or for infill (say you have some scrap color, assign it to infill where it's not seen) Your sand/gell idea is ambitious and will be mechanically challenging but not impossible, just improbable. I think what you want available right now.by davew_tx - General
Thanks, I may reassemble a machine and try to figure out an anchored cable solution. We move so far on X and Y that it might be impossible with our diameter. We did increase the tension late in the life of the machine, and I think it did improve it a bit, but then the pulley issue as deemed the culprit. The cable was so tight, it sounded like a guitar string. Could pulley issues cause somethiby davew_tx - General
Summer 2013, I played around with corexy, and concluded it needs precision everywhere, especially in the motor pulley concentricity. This is just my perspective and how I approached it. There are many crafty people having success where I could not. The large (28x23x28inch) printer was designed in Solidworks, and has features to build as either a belt/cartesian or a cable/corexy. The sheetmetby davew_tx - General
solidworks now. Was using AutoCAD R14, then SDRC Ideas in the early nineties, then switched to ProE 18 and followed that till Creo, and now a SW12 fan.by davew_tx - 3D Design tools
+1 to what's been said, especially the $$ comment. If you want big, you might consider concepts beyond a stretched i3. If you are the type to tackle it, use 80/20 extrusions, in the larger sections, like 4040 and 8080. You can quickly construct a strong framework. Ebay has lots of overstock sections. You can buy someones used collection of screws/nuts/corner brackets for cheap if you keep youby davew_tx - General
More fan,.3 layer height, use.9 extrusion multiplier as a start. Newer marlin has a real-time adjustment to speed and extrusion. M220 and m221 can help, but note that entering those take several moves to kick in, as there is a buffer to empty.by davew_tx - General
It turns out more expensive than we wanted, but the costs added up. The early birds are sold at a loss for us, and after those, we will roll 100% of the profits back towards tooling, until the 400 units pay off everything. We're making the head with magnesium thixo molding, plus secondary ops. Pcbs are heavy copper. The needles are made with several processes. We've come so far and decided toby davew_tx - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Now we are live! Kickstarterby davew_tx - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Over the last 2.5 years, I've CAD'd/fab'd up a lot of 3D printer ideas, from heads to complete printers. I've focused on a dual head for some time and think it's ready. I wish there had been more time/money to send out a bunch of these for beta-testing, but there wasn't. Please support if you can, and we'll attempt to answer questions as they come in. Also, if you are an OEM and want to talk aby davew_tx - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
in that capture1 pic, I can see your issue on the short infill sharp corners. a slight overage at the sharp/square turn arounds, and then a slight thin underage as it exits the turn around. same thing you are investigating. I just looked around Marlin, and see ADVANCE in several areas, like config.adv, stepper.c and planner.c. I'm not sure, but it appears to add/subtract a correction to the tby davew_tx - General
You may have these fat corners for several other reasons besides firmware. Even direct drive setups have built up pressures. When you do a retract, if the cold end diameter of hole is not close to the filament diameter, the piston won't pull back the pressure as much. If you have a j-head or teflon at the cold end, this diameter increases with use, as the piston fattens at the telfon/brass intersby davew_tx - General