Hi Xabbax, Thanks for the video link. I tried sourcing the SSF 6 solder at HomeDepot, and it had this isntead: Do you think it would work? I only have a propane torch. Do you think it is hot enough to melt this solder? SSF6 melting temp is 1150*F, and this Stay-Silv 56 solder is melting at 1205*F. Thank you. -Thanhby ThanhTran - General
ReplicatorG can move the whole thing to Z plane and can also center all of them. But how would you print the upper arm of the vertical part that has two arms on two sides?by ThanhTran - General
I use ReplicatorG, and whenever I start the jog screen that allows you manually move the axis, the software would drive the table back to the origin at max speed. This often causes problem when the table moves and hot end slams into the freshly printed object if I started the jogging screen without resetting the origin. So without setting the max speed in firmware, the Z axis often gets stuck toby ThanhTran - General
Thanks for the info. Is it the same solder that is used with copper water pipe? Xabbax Wrote: > > I use silver solder with a 56% silver content - > its melting point(600-800 degrees C) is much > higher than ordinary solder and the heat transfer > of the silver is better than copper. Use the right > flux and temperature for the solder to flow on the > stainless. > A bitby ThanhTran - General
Not sure which firmware you're using, but with Marlin, I had to reduce default Z steps feed rate in firmware.by ThanhTran - General
Nice simple design. How do you solder the stainless steel tube? I thought lead solder won't stick to stainless steel? I would put some wood block or a thin metal sheet beneath the heat sink fins to block heat air travelling up from heater block to the fins making the fin hot. I need to redesign my hot end. The PTFE liner tube is swollen right at the tiny gap between the hot end and the big 16by ThanhTran - General
Since its flexible, I guess it could cause problems with extruder as well?by ThanhTran - General
He ran test code and the motors are running. I think the hardware are ok. I would also try out Marlin firmware and see if it works.by ThanhTran - General
How fast were you printing at? It looks like your motor is missing steps.by ThanhTran - General
I'm using a separated PID temperature controller with a thermal coupler and solid state relay. My hotend is powered by 120v though. This is my temperature controller: The disadvantage is that the firmware has no control over temperature.Have to do it manuallyby ThanhTran - General
I was so happy after I switch from my bench top CNC machine (which uses dovetail rails and large stepper motors to get decent speed). I could only get up to 20mm/s without loosing steps. I imagine these printed sleeves can have quite large friction and can be a nightmare to print at the correct dimension? Thanksby ThanhTran - General
The Sanguinololu kit from Ebay without stepper drivers is $35 with free shipping. The A4988 stepper drivers can be found in the US for $8 each. Of course you can build them for under $155. The only problem is that it takes several late nights after work to build them. If you pay for them, you can use that time to learn the software settings or playing with the printsby ThanhTran - General
I bought a Sanguinololu PCB and a blank Mega1284 and populate it with parts from my part bins, then I hook those Atmega pins to a 4axis TB6560 stepper driver that I already have and drive a CNC machine to print. Was pretty cheap I thinkby ThanhTran - General
Thanks for your help James. I am using pfte tubes I bought from mcMastercarr. Not sure if that's okay to use or not. Thanks for the tips about the software settings and temperature setting. I'm running with ReplicatorG with Skeinforge 40. I haven't tried slicer yet. The 210* was running fine for me with direct extrusion and have he some okay bridges. I will try again with temperature at 240 -by ThanhTran - General
Is anyone running 3.0mm ABS with bowden cable for your extruder? Do you have any problem with that? I just switched to using extruder with bowden cable and I had some problems: First, I have to increase temperature on the hot end from 210 - 220*C, then I have to reduce the print speed from 60mm/s down to 40mm/s, but then the extruder fails alot more often. the hobed bolt (cut with a 8mm tap) bitby ThanhTran - General
I don't think it's your bed leveling issue. Have you tried slowing down the print when it prints those thin wall? I did that and also had to use fan occasionally.by ThanhTran - General
Beware that they usually ship with tracking and insurance and thus it takes a long time to get to your doorby ThanhTran - General
Beautiful design. You make me want to build a delta bot as my next machine to replace mutt just finished printrbot. Thanks for sharing Thanhby ThanhTran - General
Looking good. Do you plan to use abs or pla? I don't like the 8mm harden rods that I'm using. Is the 10mm rod a lot strong?by ThanhTran - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I "converted" a MAX NC 15 milling machine to a 3d rep-strap. I used a Sanguino board (with Marlin firmware) to drive a Chinese stepper driver (TB6560 kind) which in turn drives the stepper motors on the milling machine. The extruder and the heated bed temperature are controlled by some temperature PID controllers bought from Ebay. Both bed and extruder use 120v for the resistors. . The Maxby ThanhTran - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I need to change the hole of this pinion to 4mm hole. I can import the STL file of the pinion file into SketchUp 8.0 and scale it down for proper dimension. I then make a thin wall tube liner that has the outer diameter of 5mm, and the inner diameter of 4mm. The problem now is I cannot seem to find the center of the hole inside the pinion so that I can align the center of the tube I just makeby ThanhTran - General
Really nice. I put the Wallace scad file in, and it shows everything about 2300 seconds later (that's a big file that also took some long time to see on my PC). It would be a bit better if the site says that it's rendering the object or if it has finished it. Thanksby ThanhTran - General
waitaki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There is no reason for them to expand/contract. > The X carriage weight remains constant throughout > the print so the couplers remain constant. The weight of the X carriage is not the same when the extruder is moving one end to another. If it moves all the way to one end, the nearest end has more weight than theby ThanhTran - General
Thanks for the feedback Waitaki. I guessed it must be working well for many since I see many people use them. I'm still puzzled as why it works without introducing lashes. I'm holding one in my hand and by pushing the two ends of the coupler together, it can shrink as much as 1.2mm. So I'm wondering why it's not shrinking or bouncing during its operation without a fixed end. Thanksby ThanhTran - General
I'm looking at how the spiral aluminum shaft coupler would work on these reprap based printer (printbot for example). The spiral Z coupler can be pushed down or pulled up a bit, and most of the assembly photos I saw don't have anything to prevent the shaft from moving in the axial direction (i.e up and down if the coupler is for Z axis). Is it because the force required to push these coupler doby ThanhTran - General
Couple things to check (things I just learned last couple weeks). May not completely apply to your problem though. Too much pressure / tension can create problem: it makes the filament deform and is bigger (where the pressure is) and can get stuck in the PFTE tube. When I first played with the extruder, I also create problem: I retract filament too much and the hot filament became oval shape whby ThanhTran - General
Google Sketchup is fairly easy to use to create some 3d things. Use it with STL plug in to export to STL file.by ThanhTran - General
I tried to print the gear again with the bed originally set at 100*C. As soon as the first layer is finished, I turned off the power to the bed and wait for the print to finish. By the time it finishes the print, the bed is about 40*C. The gear teeth are now straight (as compared to earlier prints). I'm so happy. There are still inconsistency between layers, which I'm not sure what causes itby ThanhTran - General
konwiddak Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This is can also be caused if your first layer is > too close to the bed. Try raising your first layer > very slightly. Thanks for the suggestion. Yeah I'm aware of that. I can't yet judge consistenly the initial gap I need to leave the print head at, especially if there are some ABS sticking out of the nozzle.by ThanhTran - General
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In the German forum we call this effect > Elefantenfuß (elephant foot) and it is caused by > the heated bed temperature being too high. But > 80°C is definately too cold for ABS... Thanks for the cute name. Now I can google for this symptom I guess . Looking at the teeth of the gears I print, I see thatby ThanhTran - General