Quotesheepdog43 The worst part though, was that you just lost 1/3rd of your load bearing pivots, and the other take all the abuse. After a few hundred iterations my ball joints were junk. I do not have problems with that. I always probed a point 5 times. The differences were almost always at most ±1 micro-step regardless of position. I have got about two measurements at tower A base which were ±by hercek - Delta Machines
QuoteReplace I bought the Delta for fun, while the Orca suffered from a blown electronic part, but it is not fun. It looks amazing (one reason to build it ) but quality stays behind the cartesian. Of course original parts quality has to do with that, as well al calibrating experience, but also those are better adapted on cartesian. Actually calibrating delta is easy It may require some math skilby hercek - Delta Machines
Quotesheepdog43 Quotehercek Quotesheepdog43 Also, if you plan to auto level or auto calibrate, just reaching the edge of the build plate is not enough. The further out you go, the more flat one arm will be, leaving you little to no leverage to depress the probe. Even if you do have a little extra, I recommended not probing more than 75-80% from the center of the build platform to reduce wear andby hercek - Delta Machines
Quoteplastik What angle should the rods have when the nozzle is all the way to the edge of the printing bed? Is it 20 degrees? The angles change with changing printer delta radius and diagonal rod length. Do not try to measure them. It is hard to do it precisely. It is easier to measure distances. The only thing why you need them is to get ball joints with enough free angular movement. When deltaby hercek - Delta Machines
Good ball joints are much better (no play, light, strong) than magnetic. The problem is traxxas is not good if not carefully assembled. If you can then get e.g. MP-Jet ball joints.by hercek - Delta Machines
Not, if you would compress it to splines too.by hercek - Delta Machines
When EEPROM is enabled (EEPROM_MODE > 0) the configuration data are taken from it. You can reload EEPROM with data from Configuration.h with M502. You can edit EEPROM with repetierHost in a grid control (search the menu). Should work on Windows. It is crashing on my Linux. You can edit it with M-codes too - search "Modifying EEPROM values" on this page:by hercek - Delta Machines
x/y/z min endstops are independent from z-probe micro-switch in Repetier. Disable x/y/z min endstops in configuration. Set z-probe pin to one of (now free) x/y/z min endstop pins. E.g. I set it to 3 for my RAMPSv1.3 (which was originally x min endstop).by hercek - Delta Machines
Repetier takes configuration data from EEPROM (instead of Configuration.h) if both of these are valid: 1) EEPROM is enabled 2) EEPROM_MODE is not different from the value it had during previous firmware updateby hercek - Delta Machines
Quotefr Can someone explain the backlash issues associated with "Traxxas" bearings? I'm considering using more precise plastic bearings, but I'm not sure of the design constraints yet.by hercek - Delta Machines
The best approach is to use right threaded screw on one side of a rod and left threaded screw on the other. Glue the screws to the rod. Then screw the ball joints at the screws. This allows you to adjust the rod length precisely. Otherwise (if you would use the same threads on both sides of a rod) you can set the rod length with the precision of pitch/2 only (that means 0.25 mm for M3, not very gby hercek - Delta Machines
arm length discussion: math based calibration discussion: dynamic positioning error discussion: Edit: and delta segmentation error discussion:by hercek - Delta Machines
If you are in EU try these: MP JET Ball Link (Ø7 mm, M3, M3 short) They are sold assembled and tight. No need for rubber bands. No way I would go with magnetic joints instead of good ball joints.by hercek - Delta Machines
If the number change by more than ±0.02 then it is not good - you may need stronger structure with less play. You should calibrate your printer. Either try Rich Cattell's firmware: or try this approach: or some other calibration tutorial.by hercek - Delta Machines
The problem with bigger printers is that they will bend if not built from stronger parts than their small versions. Longer belts will have lower position precision too since they elongate more under tension. It is harder to make them precise since it is harder to get 0.1mm precision on 120 cm long beam than on 60 cm long beam. Firmware cannot fix low rigidity of a printer but it can fix problemsby hercek - Delta Machines
Quotesheepdog43 Also, if you plan to auto level or auto calibrate, just reaching the edge of the build plate is not enough. The further out you go, the more flat one arm will be, leaving you little to no leverage to depress the probe. Even if you do have a little extra, I recommended not probing more than 75-80% from the center of the build platform to reduce wear and tear as it is VERY hard on yby hercek - Delta Machines
Quotetjb1 Solidworks is not $43,000, the top tier (Solidworks Premium) is $7,995 which has almost identical features to Inventor Professional. Looks right for residents of Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Michigan, Missouri and Wisconsin. Anyway: QuoteMelvang For what its worth, the full version with an unlimited duration on the license, including tech support and updates was around $43,00by hercek - General
Inventor Professional: $7,295 Solid Works: about $43,000 I'm not surprised people use OpenSCAD or FreeCAD.by hercek - General
Your post contains a few errors: Quoteallempty I built a delta earlier this year and found that the most important point is to make sure the angle of the push rods from the ball joint centres is exactly 60 degrees to the vertical slides. If you mean angle between a diagonal rod and the corresponding tower when effector is at position (x,y)=(0,0) then it is typically 30° but can be more or less.by hercek - Delta Machines
Really you do not want it much longer since it lowers your maximum print height and makes it harder to detect calibration errors. You do not want it shorter since you would not be able to reach to the far side of the bed. You may want it slightly longer so that you do not slow down too much when printing at the very far edge opposite of a tower. E.g. If you make it by 9% longer (than the lengthby hercek - Delta Machines
The image is missing delta effector offset and delta carriage offset. But do not bother. Make them long enough so that the hotend can reach the far edge just opposite a tower.by hercek - Delta Machines
QuoteKurzaa I definitely like the idea of a quick release, not that I really have a reason to swap filaments...only have the one roll. Though I wonder if heating up my hot end would help with loading filament. Or is it just for removing your filament? You need to heat up hotend when you want to remove the filament you have printed with before and which was left to cool down in hotend. The onlyby hercek - Delta Machines
I got one complain about it: a missing filament quick release. But I do no miss it personally. When changing filament I need to heat up hot end anyway and when printer is powerd up I can just use Reverse/Extrude to change the filament. I never needed to release the clamp for a filament change. When a new filament is inserted from the bottom then Extrude will nicely pull it in.by hercek - Delta Machines
Ja viem nieco o standardnom Rostock printri. Magneticke klby nedoporucujem. Su tazke a nedrzia tak dobre pokope ako gulove capy. Zober radsej diagonalne tyce s gulovym capom. Napr tento:by hercek - RepRap Usergroup - Slovakia
It looks like either position of tower X needs to be moved counter clockwise a bit or position of tower Y needs to be moved nearer to the centre. Hard to tell your description is too vague. But the good thing is I do not need to guide you since you can read what to do in this document: Read the comments in it. If you are good at math you can even try to execute it. That guide (which recommendsby hercek - Delta Machines
Not only that. How about arms colliding with the printed piece. If you would make the platform so wide that this would not be a problem than more space would be wasted by making the printer more wide than one would save by making it shorter.by hercek - Delta Machines
If you did not buy belts yet, get ones with carbon fibre or steal core. Kevlar may be ok if you can get the better one (there seem to be more variants). Avoid glass core belts. They are too stretchy. It is good to get precisely matching pulleys for your belts. Do not bother with the original arms ending with u-joints. Get ball joints (e.g. MP-Jet is good; other people use Traxxas so maybe thereby hercek - Delta Machines