I'm not sure what photos you are looking for. Here are two showing my oscilloscope. One is the 60Hz frequency I see when trying to get a PWM signal. The other is the 12V signal I have when I max out the signal. I am using an Azteeg X3 Pro board with Marlin firmware. I have the pan pin set to 11 with is HE8 on my board. This is where this measurement was taken today. The program I used was Simby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
OK, I got my scope. I think I found the problem. I'm seeing the right frequency output for the controller however, I'm only getting +/- 4mV. It looks like the input voltage has to be at least 2.5V. How do I up the output voltage?by twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
I want to do engraving and cutting with the laser. For software I use Cura, Simplify 3D, Slic3r, and Kisslicer for slicing. I run the printer with Pronterface or Simplify 3D directly through USB. For designing my models I use Sketchup. I have not tried the engraving programs yet. There are a few I can download a trial for first but I haven't even tried that yet. The cutting model I first drew upby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks for clearing that up. I was thinking that was how it worked. I will try to get my hands on a scope. As I'm narrowing down my issue I think it's going to be a timing issue. I think the firmware is just cycling it too fast and I need to slow it down under 5kHz. So, given it's just turning the laser on and off to vary the cutting time. What is the best way to establish power levels for eachby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
I am eventually going to try engraving. My first test ran into a few issues. The biggest one is that I etched my glass bed with this laser and I left marks on my black anodized build plate. I want to make sure I have my power levels set correctly for each material. Using the jumpers only chunk the power in half amp increments. I don't want to have to change the jumpers for each material. I wouldby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quotecozmicray What connections are you using? --- H2/H4 on driver? What firmware? Is Fan pin set to varible 12v PWM? Can you put a scope on it --- look at PWM voltage level and timing (<5kHz)? The Jtech manual has info CONTROL SIGNAL AND PERFORMANCE The input connection provides an optically isolated input for control of the laser diode. The connection and the jumper settings were descby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
I've got my laser working. I can control it through my Azteeg X3 Pro board with Gcode for on and off operation. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to control the power through PWM. I have tried most PWM pins and so far I can only turn it on if I send S128 or higher. Anything below that turns it off. I suspect that it is coming on full power too. Today I tried to hook it up to my fan pin aby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
Also, what material should I use under an object I want to cut? I don't want to mess up the print bed. I also want to try etching mirrors which from what I understand need to be etched at an angle so that I don't reflect the light back into the laser and damage it. I would think you would then need something to block the laser so that it doesn't reflect and possibly damage something around the cuby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
I've got the laser add-on kit from Jtech. I created a mount to hold the diode on my 3d printer and one to hold the power supply for the laser. I've got it wired up to a PWM so I will be able to control the power. Everything looks good but now I'm trying to figure out how to set the focus and actually make my first cuts/engravings. I would like some input from you guys who have been down this roadby twofieros - Laser Cutter Working Group
I don't know what happened that caused my error but I started over with a fresh copy of Marlin and now I'm up and running like I was before. I just thought I would post an update for anyone searching the forums.by twofieros - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
dc42 thank you for the reply. I don't know how I messed that up so I uploaded a known working firmware and it too does the same thing. It must be something else. I'm really stumped. All I did to the board was move some temperature sensors from one slot to another. I also moved a few hot ends from one slot to another. I didn't mess with the extruders. Today I tried the G commands like you suggesby twofieros - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
While still trouble shooting this I noticed that if I move the Y axis 10 then move Z axis 10 I get a slight movement in the Y axis while the Z is moving.by twofieros - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
My first post here. Please excuse any mistakes or wrong forum. I have been searching all over for the solution to my problem. My Printer has been running fine up until now. I have a ORD Solutions MH3000 with 5 nozzles on it. It runs Marlin firmware. I have been modifying it so that I can add a laser cutter to it. After several mistakes while rerouting the liquid cooling system and messing with sby twofieros - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors