what is the flight time of a copter that size?by muelli - Mendel90
Hi, is there someone out there (preferably Europe) who can CNC mill or metal print a small part? The dimensions of the attached STL are not 100% as I had to print it in PLA and the hole dimensions are usually to small My PLA print is to weak and the head is sheared of Thanks! bye Andreasby muelli - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
as long as the teeth look greasy, it should be ok. print some spare gears to be safe :-)by muelli - Mendel90
Quotenophead They come with oil in and typically last for years despite being noisy. hm, despite making noises I can feel the resistance they start to create when I move the carriages manually along the rods. Maybe there was dirt in the bearings. I cleaned the rods very carefully during the built.by muelli - Mendel90
I personally would recommend either cleaning _all_ bearings pedantically and oil them from the inside (with bearing oil) before installing, or get higher grade bearings. Mine make a terrible noise and start failing, so I soon have to replace them and disassemble the heatbet and X carriage.by muelli - Mendel90
I had and have this problem too, I call it "overshooting edges". I seems to be solved or getting better, when lowering the print speed. It might have something to do with the inertia of the extruded material.by muelli - Mendel90
Hallo zusammen, seit neuestem habe ich zwei Probleme mit PLA. Ecken fangen ab dem 2. oder 3. Layer an , so kleine Zipfel zu bilden. Die Basis haftet jedoch weiter am Druckbett, da steht nichts ab. Es sieht ein bisschen so aus, als wird in den Ecken zu viel extrudiert und dadurch werden auch die Kanten so unsauber. Zusätzlich bildet sich unten eine Delle am Objekt, meistens geht die auch rundruby muelli - Allgemeines
Even with oiling the rattling is getting louder and louder. Since today, when moving the Y bed by hand, I can feel slight resistance moving it along the axis. I think the bearings start to fail.by muelli - Mendel90
first a hint on kapton tape: use a drop if diswasher cleaner in some water to wet the glas plate. then lay the kapton striped on the wet glas. you then can easily move the tape over the glas, push bubbles out, move the layers together etc. if done, push the water out using a credit card etc. heat up the printbed to some 30°C and let it dry. you then should hava a perfectly flat kapton bed. aboutby muelli - Mendel90
yes it was quite a challenge! I am printing the ABS with no cabin or cover whatsoever. But since saturday I got the printplate from MTplus and it is incredible how good the ABS is sticking to it while hot. nophead: thanks for the hint, that might be the reason why my bridge looks not so good Using 45 infill direction it tries to span the bridge diagonally and most if the first strings are notby muelli - Mendel90
Hello, as far as I have read, 0.1mm should be possible with a 0.4mm hotend. About the glas plate.... get a dial gauge and check your plate! Mine is mounted to the bed and I have it level within 0.02-0.03mmby muelli - Mendel90
Phase 2 finished, project complete. Now everything on the printbed and around the nozzle is in bright light! I had to change the fan duct a little to be able to print it without support: I printed two, one sliced with KISSlicer and one with skeinforge50plus. Kisslicer came out better, that was a surprise. However, I had to clean them both up a little, the bridging is quite extreme on this objeby muelli - Mendel90
should be the well known IKEA mirror tile.....by muelli - Mendel90
I am limited by the length of the flex cable and do no want to buy a new one (cheapskate *g*). attached is the prototype of the fan duct with led and cable clips. ABS should arrive today, as soon as I know how to print ABS the tests will startby muelli - Mendel90
Well, not really. Plus the mount is just temporary and not accuratly directed at the printbed. I do not use the camera right now so this will most likely not be fixed soon Would be better to place the camera somewhere else.by muelli - Mendel90
Ladies and Gentlemen, I present: the illuminated Mendel90 printbed! That completes phase 1. Phase 2 will begin as soon as I get my white ABS to print the X carriage fan duct with fittings for three 5mm LEDs to shed even more light to what actually happens on the printbed. PS: Of course the light can be controlled via gcode. Check out this thread for details:by muelli - Mendel90
Ich habe wg. dieses Problems auch mit skeinforge angefangen zu arbeiten, konnte das Problem aber damit bisher auch nicht lösen. (Die Pfeife wird übrigens auch in Slic3r sehr gut und perfekt).by muelli - Software
aside from the 12v question I continued with the project. I created some clips to fit on the mendel dibond arc that are equiped with rings for 5mm LEDs. Left and right clips hold the LED in a 45° angle, top clip at 90° You can find them at thingiverse:by muelli - Mendel90
Sure, board and schematic attached! It is both in eagle format. More Information and a little explanation about the how and why, along with some pics can be found in my blog (german) atby muelli - Mendel90
I got machine oil and tried to oil the bearings/smooth rods, but there seems to be a oil seal on each side of the bearings preventing the oil to get inside. any advice?by muelli - Mendel90
Hello all, optional fan is installed and working. I created a small PCB layout and etched it in my etching "machine", it offers a plug and play connection to the 10pin header on the melzi and has n-channel mosfets that drive three outputs using the spare pins on the melzi header (A1-3). It also has a 12V input line that can be wired to the 12v +FAN screwterminal, as the VCC on pin9 of the melziby muelli - Mendel90
Stimmt, das habe ich bei PLA gar nicht bedacht. Mist, grade kein ABS mehr hier. Aaaaaaaargh.by muelli - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
Hallo zusammen, ich brauche ien paar neue Platinenhalter für meine Ätzküvette. Weiss jemand ob PLA oder ABS säurerbeständig(er) ist bzw hat es sogar schon mal ausprobiert? Danke!by muelli - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
nope, I have a fan equipped and that is not the sound i am hearing. it occurs only when the Y axis moves. since this evening it seems i have similar sounds when the x axis moves, so i guess it are the linear bearings. should i ry to oil the smooth rods? any ideas?by muelli - Mendel90
Hello all, since yesterday or the day before that, I am hearing strange rattling sounds while printing. I checkd the scres/washers, nothing seems to be loose. Could it be the bearings? Is it going to be a problem? Please see the attached audio file, I recorded it while printing the bottom infill so you can seperate printer noise from the rattling. thanks for advice.by muelli - Mendel90
Thanks, but I already got the schematics! I just need to know, if the other pins (A1, A2, A4) on the 10 pin header JP-16 are free for user control on the mendel90 or are used (maybe internally) for other things and cannot be controlled using g-code.by muelli - Mendel90
thanks, that is a nuce idea! nobidy knows about the other pins? used or unused? free for controlling other stuff?by muelli - Mendel90
THanks for alle the info, I will implement it soon. Does anybody know about the other Controlpins on the 10pin Melzi header? AFAIK pin 6 is FXT-A3 in the circuit, are the pins A1,2 and 4 unused too?by muelli - Mendel90
good question, I cannot find it anymore :/ I have seen to many bed leveling videos today, so it might have been as well another printer. sorry for the confusion there is a topic in the german subforum that goes on and on about wear on the threaded Z rods and nut when auto leveling throughout the print....without coming to a conclusionby muelli - Mendel90