The guy actually had a tip formed like a scoop on it, so the choclate would be carved out like icecreme and pushed out sideways. Was looking quite good cosidering the tip was not rotating.by Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
Wasn't there a guy on Youtube doing choclate "engravings" with a CNC mill and a slightly modified soldering iron?by Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
It is not about what and where - you need to check and calibrate the entire machine from scratch. This encludes settings for endstops, stepping, bed size, thermistors, axis directions and so on. You can't just put a 3D printer together and think that a firmware you upload would make it all work right away - especially not if it is your first build. Check the hardware first, calibrate it all to beby Downunder35m - Printing
Shielded cables are always a good idea, but also often over rated. Take older game PC's and you often see serial cables from the motherboard to the connector that are already longer - and then comes the cable on the device attached to it. If you recently wiggled on cables there is a good chance you just lost ground somewhere. The card reader requires 3.3V from an onboard regulator. If the main coby Downunder35m - Printing
A bit of remaining plastic on or in the thread is usually not a problem, once hot and you tighten it the stuff will be soft anyway. That leaves the extruder not pushing filament - did you check the curent for the motor and the extruder can move properly?by Downunder35m - Printing
From my experience those unwanted moves are caused by a bad USB connection, often together with gorund problems on the controller or bad filters in the power supply. Could not see anything about SD support so if USB is your only option: Make sure the firmware, print software and computer use the same com port settings! Most setups won't allow for flow control, so if that is turned on in your Windby Downunder35m - Printing
I had similar problems when still using the old J-heads. Got better when I realised that not all melting chambers are designed the same way but the real deal was an all metal hotend in the long run. There are some things I noticed when it comes to these fancy hotends that can allow for screwups. Firstly the type of nozzle itself - long and pointy or short and quite flat seems to be the only onesby Downunder35m - Printing
Sometimes I fail to see the relevance of your "news"...by Downunder35m - Printing
Not really unless you want to created the required coding enviroment and compile from the sources. But there are projects that offer Gcode senders for Android. Pronterface has not seen any updates for a long time and I don't know of anyone working on an Android port.by Downunder35m - Printing
Retraction IMHO is a funny and misleading thing You use it to prevent having plastic where you have to clean it later as inside a model it makes little good use. Problem is that all this needs to be finely tuned and calibrated as otherwise it can bring more problems than solutions. In any case it requires a tuned extrusion rate and the right speed - too low and the retraction move takes too muchby Downunder35m - Printing
Here is a little trick I use to make sure the first layer is at the right height: Get something of known and fixed thickness, best some feeler gauges of course. Set your first layer to that height. Start the print and pause/stop it once the first layer starts. Check if the feeler gauge passes through or gets stuck. E.g. you set the first layer to 0.2mm: Take a 0.2mm feeler gauge to check the nozzby Downunder35m - Printing
Can't really say by the video but my best guess is that the first layer height is not correct. When doing the first layer the nozzle should be at layer height over the bed, to me it looks like yours is way higher. And I would try with a lower speed for the first layer if I encounter adhesion problems too. Having the right temperature also helps.by Downunder35m - Printing
Might help to upload the video where people don't have to download it to watch...by Downunder35m - Printing
There is a reason the 0-100 is not kept - try to base63 calculations with decimal points If the plugins or Inlscape crash then it is quite possible your porblem is python but not the programs or plugins. Needing more than 20% of power to make the laser fire can't be correct and either your power supply works way different or the tube is not 100%. Keep in mind the testfire only give a short pulseby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
Max endstops are realised through the firmware and dimensions of the bed, if you need real endstops to function you need to make the corresponding changes in the firmware. The menu functions will fire the laser, they are set to working values and show as such on the display. Inkscape with the supplied plugin and a standard 3D printer software like Pronterface is all you need. You can still createby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
Sorry but I can't follow you...by Downunder35m - Printing
What max endstops? There are none in the machine. If the original firmware fires than mine should do the same as all the laser stuf in this regard is the same in terms of pins and firing control. Is it possible that you missed the fact of the increased power levels? The Turnkey release has 0-100 for the power control, mine 0-10000 for a greater resolution here - so to get 10% power out you need aby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quite often there postings about printing problems where it becomes obvious that the machine was never really calibrated. How to calibrate your extruder and axis through the E-steps is well documented in more than enough places, so let's focus on those things not mentioned too often. Everything that moves needs support for this, usually bearings of some sort. But the rails, roller system or whatby Downunder35m - Printing
It is fried, a bin case, dead... Get a normal and cheaper SSR rated for 30A or more and forget about it.by Downunder35m - Printing
IMHO it would be just best to forget using a LED for itby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
If you are not after top speed then it all is not that importent to get 100% right. But it still makes sense to optimise for a really smooth ride. The jerk only needs to be lower than 20 if you encounter serious issues, it won't affect you too much at low speeds. The acceleration however can make a big difference. At slow speeds you don't have to worry too much about moving masses so you can useby Downunder35m - Printing
My concern with LED's would be the way design itself. A laser provides a totally different form of light too. A LED will always have a quite wide spread for the beam of light it produces, that is defined by physics and form. So you would first need a way to get the light really parallel as otherwise you have problems focussing it. This means some sort of beam expander... Just take a normal and reby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
I recently noticed that problems with failing prints are getting more frequent. Also that some of these fails are related to printers not being calibrated properly or being used with wrong settings due to a lack of understanding. Today I will try to shed some light on the great myths behind the topics of "ACCELERATION" and "JERK". I guess it is best to start by explaining what the terms actuallyby Downunder35m - Printing
I think for most of us it would be overkill as we only need to set up one machine and than just enjoy good prints. But having a nice collection of STL files to generate really messy (for the hardware) Gcode would reall be nice. Was thinking of using my latest mods as a base for a tutorial on adjusting acceleration and jerk but it a very complex topic if you can provide real life models and pics oby Downunder35m - Printing
I think you have a little lack of understanding how laser tubes with water cooling work, so I suggest to check Wikipedia Same for working with mirrors and lenses in a laser setup. It only makes sense to build from scratch if you fully understand how the single components work. Falwty99 explained the tube quite good but I strongly suggest to get a better understanding of all as otherwise you willby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
That is of course true but the important thing is laser safety - a LED is not a laser For a white LED I would simply use welding goggles. But if you consider the white light is actually blue light mixed with the color generated by the flouroscent covering it would be much easier to use a blue LED and to use safety glasses for blue lightby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group
Not really, you can check the mosfets with a multimeter and if one is faulty replace it for less then 2 bucks... But if the mosfet is working fine it means the stuff driving it has failed, then of course a replacement of the entire board is more effective. It might pay off to add a SSR on the output to drive the bed, this way the mosfet has no work to do and if something fails it will be the cheaby Downunder35m - Printing
I can do down to 0.05mm lines if I have to at the expense of speed as the CPU is a bit slow to cope with the timing. Just a dirt cheap chinese K40 with a proper controller and firmware But as said, the above is not the top it can do. This one was done at 7200mm/min in 62minutes. Size is 240x180mm.by Downunder35m - Printing
You can see an older video here. This was still with old speeds and some glitches in the movement, might do another one tonight to show the currently possible speeds. But first I have to check if those settings also work fine for detailed vector jobs at half decent speeds without loosing steps.by Downunder35m - Printing
Water goes in where the laser comes out with the tube placed so all air is forces out with the water flow, some people even have the tube at a slight downward angle. And for the optics .... You really don't want to take shortcuts here, plastic vibrates so proper mounts in metal are a must have. Same for the adjustments, you don't just want to be able to tilt the mirror, you also want to be able tby Downunder35m - Laser Cutter Working Group