Quoteleadinglights To get to higher powers a solid-state relay would be used for DC and either a solid-state relay or an SCR with a zero-crossing driver for an AC circuit. I can't recommend any particular one but I am sure I have seen such recommendations on this forum in the past. Mike I've settled on a Schneider Electric 6210SZS-DC3 zero-crossing type SSR. I've attached a link to the data sheby OldBikerPete - Mechanics
That's an interesting bed, Victor. Can you tell me if insulating the underside of the bed is commonly done? What material do you use the insulate under yours? Peter.by OldBikerPete - Mechanics
Quotepmd10 I don’t know if by telling you the thickness of the tape (0,06mm) you would be able to tell me if that is the right one to go with or if I should try buying a different one. And apart from that, from what I’ve understood it would be better to buy a 520W+ power supply rather than using the one I currently have. Am I right? That is a good power supply you already have but even so, I woby OldBikerPete - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist A heater doesn't care if it's powered by DC or AC, so why spend extra money on a big power supply to give it tightly regulated DC? Switching power to a DC heater requires a DC SSR and they tend to get hot in operation, so you have to cool them, usually with a heatsink (cost) and fan (noise). Line power switching using an AC SSR leaves the SSR as cool as a cucumber withoutby OldBikerPete - Mechanics
Quotepmd10 The thing is that my design requires five magnets (3mm thick) (I want to avoid using a magnetic surface to make the heat transmission as efficient as possible) to hold the flexible steel platform. However, the aluminium base that I’m using is 3mm thick and I don’t want it to be any thicker because of the weight. Those magnets will be embeded into the base and in order to prevent them fby OldBikerPete - Mechanics
QuoteVDX ... if you're new to 3D-printing, then better start with 300x300mm max -- bigger brings a lot more problems! ... even 300x300mm is not so easy - many experienced DIY-ers resigned with bigger volumes for heating and warping issues ... Thank you Victor. In building my 500mm printer, I am very aware of the effects of differential expansion in the bed and of shrinkage occurring in a large pby OldBikerPete - Mechanics
Quotepmd10 Thanks for all the responses but there is still one thing I don’t get. As Mike said at the beginning, 300x300 beds will need between 270-540W of power. Then Petters’ video ( very helpful by the way ) showed that some beds can even use 700W. And, apart from that, he has bought a 1400W heater. Now, my question is, what is the point of all this power if most motherboards can’t even getby OldBikerPete - Mechanics
Quotepmd10 In that case I'll most probably use a 5mm thick aluminium plate as you say and I'll see what I can do about the steel plate. Thanks a lot for you time You shouldn't have a problem with different expansion of your steel bed and aluminium plate as your magnetic fixing method will allow the two to slide against each other.by OldBikerPete - Mechanics
Hello pmd10. I'm VERY new to the 3d printing scene. I have a Flashforge Creator Pro 2, am very dissatisfied with small bed and printable volume. I am a long-established DIY mechanical and electronics maker and have decided to make my own 3d printer with a 500mmx500mmx500mm print volume. Now, to get to the point, because of that, I've been doing a lot of (re-)searching in the internet and haveby OldBikerPete - Mechanics