@mrorange26, I sent a shot-in-the-dark idea for you a little while ago, but it doesn't look like the post made it in. In a nutshell, I had a similar problem with a specific STL file at one point, and rotating it on the table by 15 degrees or so before slicing seemed to improve it. I guess it changed all the math the slicer was calculating enough to remove some error that showed up. So if you ruby maso - Delta Machines
Quotemrorange26 I think my z belt feels more slacker than other 2,How do I tighten it up. Lower your Z motor.by maso - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart Quotevreihen Speaking of the CP not-so-secret sauce, has anyone tried to attach un-tapped steel bearings directly to the rods (CF or aluminum) on the non-magnetic spring setup using CA? Just curious how it would work, since I have a hundred 5/16" (7.93mm) balls left over from my attempt at Johann's recirculating ball carriages. I was thinking that an automotive brake line flarinby maso - Delta Machines
QuotePointy What effect does raising the ball sockets from the carrier have if any? (I had to raise them up 5mm, so the spring wire hole clears the belt guide) What is the optimum angle for the sockets? (mine are currently at 45 degrees, the same as the effector) I'm far from an expert on these things, but here's my thoughts: I'm not entirely sure how raising the balls away from the carrier iby maso - Delta Machines
Quotevreihen QuotePointyI don't see any reason why they won't work, but you never know. You will sacrifice 10mm of build height though, as I had to make them taller to incorporate the adjuster. Would moving the ball sockets and spring retainer to the top of the carriage plate gain some of that 10mm back????? For what it's worth, I've made a design that does exactly that. Look here: http://www.tby maso - Delta Machines
If it works with PLA, I'd think that rules out both extruder calibration, and what I was about to suggest, which was tuning the PID settings. As one who had problems with ABS in the past, I'd suggest playing with wildly different temperatures. I was surprised that I had to set my system for 270C at one point, and then another spool worked far better at 260. On a different head I had a while baby maso - Delta Machines
I print with ABS on mine. I have an E3D Mk6 all-metal hotend, and as Andy said, I keep the little hotend fan running all the time. I have slic3r make a 4mm brim to help hold it down, and use hairspray on glass as a print surface. My temps are usually 90 degrees for the bed, 260 for the hotend. I still use the print cooling fan as needed, but typically turn it way down since it's not as necessarby maso - Delta Machines
Well I've never had a Melzi, but in the interest of answering your question, I compared the schematics of the Melzi and the Sanguino. It looks like the A0 pin is typically used for SD CS. Which is what would be used by the SD extender on Sanguino, and is already used for the on-board uSD on the Melzi. But then I looked into both my Marlin pins.h and my Repetier pins.h files, and SDSS can be coby maso - Sanguino(lolu)
That's excellent! And hilarious: I just finished re-designing the effector for my Cherry Pi III this weekend. Started from scratch in OpenSCAD, and I see some striking similarities to yours! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:518398 I designed mine with the intention of swapping 10mm ball bearings out for the magnets. Is that what you did, or did you get the pre-drilled 8mm ones? And I'm gladby maso - Delta Machines
Yeah, that answers my question. I was wondering if you could read the thermistors with the vUSB - vDIODE = 4V powering it, then apply 12V and, now that a full 5V is being provided, see that thermistor reading change. Sounds like if it's referenced from the source it'll just be a percentage of that source anyway. Cool!by maso - Sanguino(lolu)
@enif, do you have any thoughts on how changing the voltage might impact the thermistor readings? Since the thermistors are based on a voltage divider down from the 5V bus, would the ADCs read the same for the 4V supply (after diode drop) as for the 5V? I'm not so familiar with how the ATMEGA's ADCs work--if they're based on some internal reference voltage it would seem that your measured tempeby maso - Sanguino(lolu)
As @enif said, the schottky diodes prevent too much voltage drop across them. Give standard ones a shot if that's what you've got. They don't need to be particularly heavy duty or anything. Low forward voltage is the primary spec of interest. I'm interested in what you meant by "the problem was not solved." Is the regulator still getting unreasonably hot? Or are you finding that you can'tby maso - Sanguino(lolu)
Edit: this is more intended to address @alexella's point than to suggest that you change up your whole setup, @jaguarking11. I haven't tried it with my own setup, but I remember it used to be popular to demonstrate delta printers working sideways and upside down. What if you inverted your printer, placing the bed up where the heat would be? It might be more hassle than it's worth, but it mightby maso - Delta Machines
So I don't know if it's helpful for anyone else or not, but I modified the original V-Wheel carriages to fit OpenBuild extrusions. I don't have time or resources at the moment to move to the string-and-spring approach, so these carriages have the hole pattern that fits the original magnetic design. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:487476 I installed them on my printer last night, and now thatby maso - Delta Machines
Andy, Thanks for the updates to the carriages! I was looking at the V-Wheel carriage design, both the OpenBuild .stl and the original .skp file, and had a question. I was wondering what you use to tighten the carriage down onto the v-slot? The earlier design from Thingiverse has a place for a captive nut, but i just see a shallow slot in these new ones. Does that serve a purpose? Or are yoby maso - Delta Machines
I did find that I had to tighten those carriages down quite a bit. Come to think of it, I had to shave some plastic out of the slot in one of them so that I could get it tight enough. But it really wasn't too bad. And the printer is working swell now. Maybe one of us should try to make a carriage that has the wheels closer together sometime.by maso - Delta Machines
I used OpenBuild V-slot too, and for me it was more than a few mm. I was using 10-32 hardware, so that might affect things a bit. But I couldn't even fit the nut and washer in the slot, much less the plastic part too. I wound up redesigning the t-nuts to fit some small-profile 10-32 nuts. Not the best design, but I superglued each one in and they are pretty sturdy. Edit: Here's the nuts I desiby maso - Delta Machines
I had done something similar to my Sanguino, but put the diode on the 5V output of the regulator instead of the input. I used these surface mount schottky diodes and soldered them as shown in the attached picture. I also cut the traces underneath them to place them in-line. I'm not sure if it's better to place the diode on the 12v side or the 5v side of the regulator, but can verify that my Saby maso - Sanguino(lolu)
I finished my printer last night! Here's the first print: YouTube I was trying to test out how to set the z-offset for home and kicked off the print just to see what it would do. The head went slightly too low (I must've forgotten to compensate for the tape), so it plowed right through the tape and kept on printing. I never expected the first print to be so successful! Very happy. Great desby maso - Delta Machines
A thought that occurred to me while I was building my printer was that if the pivot-points for the arms (was magnets, now balls) were located higher up on those carriages, it'd be possible to get some more height for a given frame size. I toyed with the idea of flipping the carriages upside down, but of course the hinge wasn't designed that way. So my question: is there a reason, other than aesby maso - Delta Machines
The new string-spring plan looks like a good one! Is the change due to some problem with the magnet plan, or is it more to simplify the design? I haven't quite finished my printer yet, so haven't had a chance to explore the limitations of the magnets. Also, I see what you've done with the spring-loaded hotend--placing a cross bar to get both springs on there. I've been struggling with a good iby maso - Delta Machines
I just saw this bubble to the top of the forum. The stepper driver has a direction pin--if it's HI, the motor is driven one way, if it's LOW, it's driven the other way. Do you have any way of looking at the Y-DIR pin of the board to see if it's changing with direction? I can think of a few ways this problem could manifest: 1.) Bad solder joint or component on the Stepper Driver board. 2.) Badby maso - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for your quick responses Andy. I was very reassured to hear that you made it work with the fan like that, and that may be what I end up doing. I've been filing & fitting t-nuts and assembling as I go, but I placed the frame parts all together last night just to see what it would look like. Thought you might enjoy seeing it: It's got the ridiculous Nema23 motor mounts on it. Uby maso - Delta Machines
@nka, I picked up an E3D v6 hotend as well, and am looking at how I plan to fit the fan. It does look like it could fit where you suggested, but that would cover one of the screw holes for a spring on that side. It would be necessary to find a new anchor for the spring. Here's a picture of how it would fit: Have you given any more thought to how you're going to make it fit? I'd be interestby maso - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart I'm away on vacation for a couple of weeks so can't upload any images. Holy cow, man! Thanks for being so responsive while on vacation! Now quit talking to me and go enjoy yourself. I'll probably change that top bracket back to M5 but still extend it out to help align with my silly NEMA 23s. (Honestly I'm really tempted to just buy NEMA 17s and hope my benefactor doesn't noticeby maso - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart My design uses an M5 bolt through the hole and into a T nut in the tower to fix the top vertex to the tower. Interesting. That's not evident looking at the STLs; there's a wall at the end of the hole there. But I could see how that would make it more rigid. QuoteAndyCart This bolt also carries my two flanged 16mm bearings to form the top idler. So if I understand this correctly,by maso - Delta Machines
I would think a shorted reset line would definitely cause constant resets. But before you remove the button, I've got a few questions: 1.) Does your continuity checker have a resistance setting? Check how many ohms you're seeing--if they're low enough the checker will beep even if they aren't directly connected. The fact that you can power it up shows that 10 and 30 can't be shorted to groundby maso - Sanguino(lolu)
I've pulled the trigger and begun amassing parts to build one of these bad boys. Andy, I'm really excited about what you've done here! And, like you zoltan, I've got the hair-brained plan of using NEMA 23s instead of NEMA 17s. I realize it would be much easier to just buy the 17s, but the 23s were a gift and the whole project blossomed from an effort to do something cool with them. As far asby maso - Delta Machines
I've played with it a bit, and it's definitely impressive! I look forward to seeing more of the core functions evolve: the models I messed with seemed to have difficulty with "hull", which I use everywhere. Thanks for the hard work, Scorch!by maso - OpenSCAD
I used to go through a lot of work mirroring stuff, but then one day I realized you can do it with the "Scale" option (in Repetier, at least). If you scale just the x or the y by -1, it will mirror.by maso - General Mendel Topics