QuoteMechaBits you still need a lawsuit, though it might be easier to get them if they say made in Britain and it's not well the idea was to use ebay mechanisms not lawsuites a) if the item is wrongly described I as a customer can complain and possibly get my money back b) ebay seems to have it is own rule against selling items infidging on smb's trademark or copyright that's all I'm saying notby atagunov - General
QuoteSrek What else would you use than a heate rcartridge? What is so much safer? Thx for the info Srek. 25Wt heater cartridges?by atagunov - General
Stay away from 40Wt heater cartridges.by atagunov - General
I still think doubt _ebay_ sellers will be willing to fake "Made in the UK" stamp I'd say it's a least worth a tryby atagunov - General
Just being curious: which printer is that? Any photos of the finished part?by atagunov - General
Viktor, do you think "Made in country" mark would help? When I press sellers on e-bay to tell me if Arduino they sell is "made in Italy" or "designed in Italy" they reluctantly divulge the info if it's not a genuine item. If they lie on that I can complain to ebay after buying. What I see is that people try to make it look genuine but they don't like to outright lie about it.by atagunov - General
Quotereifsnyderb J-Head Mk 9 will be marketed if somebody can convince me of a way to bring it to market that will not result in cheap chinese knock-offs that get spammed everywhere and destroy the product Brian, right now I'm in need of an Arduino UNO board. I'm keen to save a bit on the headline price but I'm also aware of possible faults with Chinese copies. So what I've been was looking throby atagunov - General
[1] Haven't yet done any work with microcontrollers either but I imagine for the first prototype at least it's best to leave the main RAMPs do its normal job and have a separate microcontroller do the monitoring. If you need hot end temps - maybe you could attach a second thermocouple. [2] I've been looking with great interest at this setup: The guy managed to record the force it takes theby atagunov - General
OK I see. BTW could I also please pick your mind re design software? I am still planning to order some 2d parts from an online CNC shop and those I looked at seem to prefer .3dm file (Rhino?.. whatever that is). Do you have much experience here? You mention Blender in the video but I am not sure if that would be the right tool for 2d shapes. I personally tried FreeCAD and was ok with it but it doby atagunov - Look what I made!
Quite a show of technical prowess! Watched the full video so that I can learn some of your tricks BTW being quite new to the game I wanted to ask - what kind of thermo isolator do you have on your hot end? And which hotend/printer model is that? Is that PLA printing? Also, some online CNC shops in London say the prefer files in .3dm (I wanted to have thick sheet for an Ultimaker style printerby atagunov - Look what I made!
Hey looks nice.. I'm quite new to the game - no printer built yet. Trying to figure out stuff.. I'm pretty surprised though you can run the whole printer via a single Molex connector.. I wonder how many Amps it uses max? With all the steppers on and the hotend? And what is the max this modest Molex is rated for? Also, that little device on the side of your PSU - what was that? I could see the fby atagunov - Look what I made!
Hi, I'm considering building an alum extrusion framed 3d printer themed on Ultimaker I would like to use a 300x200 heat bed. The bed itself (alum + heater) isn't difficult to buy. But that needs to sit atop a thick sheet. And because it's Ultimaker-themed the thick sheet needs to be somewhat bigger than 300x200 - since it rides vertically on 12mm rods and needs to have a driving nut attached forby atagunov - Job Shop: I need stuff made!