QuoteElectric ant My bed is mounted using 3x M3 nuts, the 3 small springs, 3x T-nuts and 3 of the supplied screws. I have enough spring to cope with a small head crash and the M3 nut makes it easier to adjust than the square nut. You could put a washer between the spring and the bed but I don't think it's needed. I've lost count of how many different ways I tried to mount my bed, either permaby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteDownunder35m Well at least you found the cause and can figure out how to avoid it next time. Part of the learning experience IMHO, thankfull in your case not a too costly experience. True. I just bought a new hotened. Waiting for delivery. Until then my system is out of commissionby DRTak - Printing
QuoteJamesK The v6 only brings the ptfe to above the level of the heatsink. As long as the fan is running temperatures up there should be fine. The v6-lite takes the ptfe all the way to the nozzle junction and it will be subject to much higher temperatures. Like the one I was using. Well the issue was I found that the Hotend fan was out. The wires disconnected from too much tension. So the heatby DRTak - Printing
Well for me. I guess it wasnt water in the filament. No steam came out. Turns out my nozzle was loose. The overtemp weakened the aluminum block. I decided to tighten it with a 6mm socket. I think I overtightened it and stripped the threads. So the nozzle was wobbly and oozing filament. This made the z height unstable.by DRTak - Printing
QuoteCrisCG A valuable and logical explanation. Everyone can benefit from this. Thank you nebbian. I also switched to a e3d v6 hotend. You get a bonus of 2cm extra build height with the v6, compared to the sintron hotend. I thought the Sintron hotend was an e3d V6 clone? Is it e3d v6 lite?by DRTak - Delta Machines
Well slowly again, the Sintron Kossel is going to get replaced part by part. Today, I was printing and noticed oozing from the nozzle. I checked and the heatbreak tube and nozzle were loose. So I turned them with a wrench. Then under the pressure of just the heat and oozing PETG, the nozzle kept popping out. Bad news. I think I warped or ruined the aluminum heatblock. So now I have 2 choices. Buyby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant I have finished making my led strip lights for my printer, and they have all turned out quite accurate considering my printer is no where near set up right. It is on www.thingiverse.com You can see some pics of them here The way that these little strips have turned out is making me think I might have a chance of printing the plastic parts for my new RepRap Prusa i3 Apparentlby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian QuoteDRTak Nebbian. I do not see the STL file for the screen you have on the front of the kossel. The black mesh thing? Ha ha that's because it's too big to print on a Sintron Kossel Mini! I just used gutter guard: You can use any mesh you have lying around. On the back panel I used a solid metal panel, so that I could firmly clamp the power cord. I don't like the idea of 240by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant Thanks for the info guys, that gives me more stuff to play about with now. I can understand how the rod length could affect the print size now that someone else has said it, that was my initial thought. Quoteo lampe You should print bigger parts to measure dimensions I started a print of a screen cover but the size was way off, so I stopped it. The hole for the screen should hby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteamigob I have a E3D V6 and by accident I was printing at 275c ( now 245c, and first layer 255c) . I didn't look at the PTFE tubing yet but it is still printing very well. I am building a smaller lighter wade's like extruder so this weekend I will see how the PTFE looks like. In my experience that melts the PTFE liner. For me the liner closes off and I have to use a drill bit to open it bacby DRTak - Printing
QuoteJamesK Quote I think you have to use a metal hotend for PETG. I was printing it at 250C with a ptfe liner. I haven't tried it in an all metal hotend yet. Well, the ptfe liner in my nozzle melts above 260 deg. So I just have a little bit left in the inner bore. But I have removed it from touching the nozzle. I only left it in there for PLA. JamesK. I just saw a video of PETG and taulman Nby DRTak - Printing
Quotenebbian QuoteDRTak Nebbian. I do not see the STL file for the screen you have on the front of the kossel. The black mesh thing? Ha ha that's because it's too big to print on a Sintron Kossel Mini! I just used gutter guard: You can use any mesh you have lying around. On the back panel I used a solid metal panel, so that I could firmly clamp the power cord. I don't like the idea of 240by DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteTinchus Hi All. I would like some help with petg, please correct me if Im wrong: 1.- Pla starts to soften at low temperatures, ABS is more resistant to this, but can it be posible that, despite petg fusion temperature is around 230-250 (way higher than PLA), it starts to soften also at low temperatures? even lower than ABS ????? Would this explain why is ssomehow difficult to use petg withby DRTak - Printing
Well I like PETG more than PLA. I have major issues with PLA sticking to a glass bed. So I have to use Kapton tape. Well then I switched to an IR sensor so I had to remove the tape and clean the glass everytime. If I use gluesticks, I had to clean the glass bed everytime as wellI gave up with PLA. Moved to PETG. It sticks to the glass plate way too well. It actually pulled off glass from it one tby DRTak - Printing
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Well I have an idea. I have a lot of granite laying around. I might make granite feet. I have tested it and I elevated the Kossel 90mm off the ground with granite tile. Its enough room to fit the power supply below the unit. Its also enough height that I could attach a 80mm fan directly below the unit. Sounds like a plan. If you have some marble maybe you will also want chby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Thanks for the input. My goal was to put ALL of the electronics below the bed. Nebbian your print is what I was looking for. Actually, I might mix prints. I might use hackers brackets and nebbians feet. I just have to reassemble the unit to print. I'm not sure if my brackets are good for hiding *all* electronics under the bed. It puts duet right in the middle, meaning therby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak When I checked the thermal readings it was 54 deg C under the heatbed where the duet was sitting. I assume it was the same temp just now. So the duet shut off and didnt finish the effector. I can only assume it gets way to hot below a heated hotbed. So I will temporarily elevate the kossel with bricks. Place fans all around the unit to cool the duet. Try and print the 4 holdeby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTak So my Sintron Kossel cracked. I was auto leveling the bed and for some reason it decided to ram itself into the glass bed. I hit stop. But I heard something snap. I looked and couldnt find the issue. I tried to auto level and noticed the z side was messed up. I looked at the upper corner frame and the Z corner cracked. For now I have tightened the scrby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Just a note on endstop placement: I've found that having about 2mm of travel after homing (the value in the M66 command) works well. This means that you can adjust the endstops up to 2mm before running out of adjustment. When I do the first print of the day I always watch the thickness of the lines, and often have to adjust the values in the M666 command by 0.03 - 0.05mm. Occasby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe @DrTak I think, this is related to the real endstop height. Place them in equal height and keep the M666 values as small as possible. o lampe. thanks for your help. I manually adjusted the Z endstop and noticed an immediate improvement. I then made sure that all the towers are the same height. Adjusted those. Came back to the z endstop and made it 2mm lower than the rest. Did a autoby DRTak - Delta Machines
I have a new question. Since I have owned my Sintron. The system has always thought that the center of the bed is off b 40mm. When I home the nozzle the nozzle is in the center. But when I try and calibrate manually, I notice that the probe arcs 40mm towards the XY axis. This occured with the Ramps setup and now the Duet. What I am saying is that the system has issues with the center of the Concaby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG Thank you nebbian, i will try that. I changed to nozzle and now i'm back to printing. I now know what happened. I printed ABS, than switched back to PLA and heated it to 250 degrees. I guess the PLA staied too long at this temperature and got stuck in there, creating a partial clog. Is there a way to save this nozzle? Or trash can and that's it?? For clogs get a .4 mm drill bit orby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG Thank you nebbian, i will try that. I changed to nozzle and now i'm back to printing. I now know what happened. I printed ABS, than switched back to PLA and heated it to 250 degrees. I guess the PLA staied too long at this temperature and got stuck in there, creating a partial clog. Is there a way to save this nozzle? Or trash can and that's it?? For clogs get a .4 mm drill bit orby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteElectric ant Hi guys, I am just about to strip my printer down and rebuild it with all the right angles this time. I have got a digital angel finder and a good spirit level, can anyone give me some tips on the best way to achieve 3 x 60 degree corners and how to get the towers perfectly upright. This time I want to build it right, with the angles all being correct because now all my prints lby DRTak - Delta Machines
QuoteCrisCG Thank you for the suggestions. I will google some more on changing those parts, for wich i have 0 experience at this moment. For now i just solved it by having 100 degrees on the first layer, and the 90 for the rest of the print and it worked with no warping on a preety big part. I had the same issue. Warm up to a certain point and then stop. Turned out that the Sintron Power supplieby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteCrisCG I can print ABS now too, first layer sticks great. But after about 30-40 min of printing, the bed being set to 100, i get an error, it says the bed got disconected, so i am unable to finish the print. I unplug it from power and USB, plug it in without changing anything else, and now it works again. Maybe there's a weak connection somewhere? Maybe theby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteCrisCG I can print ABS now too, first layer sticks great. But after about 30-40 min of printing, the bed being set to 100, i get an error, it says the bed got disconected, so i am unable to finish the print. I unplug it from power and USB, plug it in without changing anything else, and now it works again. Maybe there's a weak connection somewhere? Maybe the soldering under the beby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe Printing a rim instead of a skirt around the part also helps against warping. I had to retighten my corners and steppers after one month of use, because I had PETG corners and almost all screws got loose. Plastic is creeping under pressure. Use washers where possible. I like how PETG looks printed. I was going to print my corner with PETG but decided against it because of its flexaby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak Quotehacker QuoteDRTak So my Sintron Kossel cracked. I was auto leveling the bed and for some reason it decided to ram itself into the glass bed. I hit stop. But I heard something snap. I looked and couldnt find the issue. I tried to auto level and noticed the z side was messed up. I looked at the upper corner frame and the Z corner cracked. For now I have tightened the scrby DRTak - Delta Machines
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak So my Sintron Kossel cracked. I was auto leveling the bed and for some reason it decided to ram itself into the glass bed. I hit stop. But I heard something snap. I looked and couldnt find the issue. I tried to auto level and noticed the z side was messed up. I looked at the upper corner frame and the Z corner cracked. For now I have tightened the screw as much as possibleby DRTak - Delta Machines