I run Sanguinololu and ramps, both of which run Sprinter and Marlin firmware so Pronterface/Slic3r is fine with them.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Col, Ive sent you a PM about plasticsby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Col Where in Nz are you? I could print them, but im in Chchby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
You need insulation around your hot end if you have a fan blowing at it. eg makergear hot end comes with Rubber Coated Black Fiberglass Insulation, and has two layers of this over the hot end.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Looks quite good, and worryingly like chocolate!by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
you are re measuring the filiment thickness when you change colour and updating your software with the new value? they are all slightly different thicknesses.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
All colours do behave slightly differently I love the way Amber tint behaves. blue tint I never got bridges to work very well.. But I didn't get a lot of time to test. red tint, orange, yellow,black, glow in the dark, dark blue and green where all very good Purple was slightly rougher, but that was early on, so was probably me. White is fine, but boring. Silver I found difficult to print wiby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Myne is just on as long as the power is on. Directly wired to the power supply, but it is only a little 40mm fax and ive only used PLAby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I was sceptical about adding a fan for a while, then tried it, I will never go back! It is very hard to quantify what it does, but it basically solidifies the plastic quicker so there is less deformation I use a y carriage with a 40mm fan mount egby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A Rostock, like everyone is rushing to build atm (why stop at one printer?)by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Im fairly sure I will have lots left overby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
teflon tube sorted (for those planning on using 3mm ) Some people may want a larger internal diameter, but so far all 3mm PLA from Diamondage has been around 2.75, so thats lot of clearance in my books. This supplier has other diameters...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Because I want decent, ground, hardened and chrome plated steel at an affordable price.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Have not started printing yet, Finishing off my mendelmax first. Also sadly the rods and pulleys and belts are all back ordered, vxb tells me it could be several months for the rods Also cant get the ptfe tube... available from mcmasters (the rotters who wont ship outside of the US) But will work on that when I have the delta moving, also wanting to try a 3mm bowden as 1.75mm is just to expenby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Im gathering parts to build one... Its only been out a little while, I don't think there are any in NZ yet.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Don't forget about the tax man, anything over about $300nz (and they include shipping in that) they charge you import duty %15by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Ive been looking for powdered ABS or PLA, haven't found any yet.... But your never going to get injection molding quality from a reprap. Ive printed stuff at 0.09mm layers and the human eye can still see the darn layers!by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Right, first thing, judge interest in a club Please raise your hand if your interested in a chch reprap/3d printing club of some sort. (raise hand == post something here, in this case) What do you want? Formal or informal type structure? Anyone got a space we could occupy? Meet how often? Monthly, bi monthly? What else needs asked?by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
There is no existing club in Chch that I know of. You could start one. There are a bunch of us in chch with machines in various conditions from fully working threw to just started.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Huxley uses 3 nema 14 steppers, so you cant use those. But the rest of the electronics is swappable.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
PLA sticks to Blue tape or warm glass "Blue Tape a painters masking tape found most commonly in US hardware stores or painting supply stores. It comes in several widths, but is commonly found in 3" and 4" rolls. It's possible that the blue part is trademarked or copy-written by 3M, because apparently in Denmark, masking tape is Yellow. The most recomerd bluetape ist the "Scotch 3M Blue Tape 209by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
old posts now, but see and So yes, technically you can get it in Nz, it will cost to $500-$900nz for $50us of extrusion re Ullrich Aluminium, "Unfortunatley we have nothing in that size 20x20mm t-slot, our only one is a 57x32mm."by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Wallace is experimental, Do you want to experiment or just print? If the latter its not recommended. I also say Prusa Mendel. Easy to build, lots of support, even from within NZ, and has a reasonable build sizeby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I put a dial gauge on X,Y and Z axis to make 1mm moves as close as possible to 1mm I have not found any local sources for t-slot extrusions at all. I got a mate to send me some from the USA. Now you can now buy it from store.mendelmax.com and get it shipped directly.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A bit bulgy could be that you e steps is to large, putting out fractionally to much plastic, our you filament measurement is out. Have you tuned it? ie marked 100mm of filament from the top of the extruder, then slowly extruded 100mm via pronterface. and checking the line is now on top of the extruder? Rotating an object is one thing that missing in pronterface. You can rotate in the Slic3r gby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The lucky last RAMPS 1.3 PCB is now listed on trademe $1 reserve Be quick, or miss out! (someone has already bid on it, so when the auction runs out, thats it, they are all gone)by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Ekman There is a bit of cross over Normally you run Pronterface and load the stl file, it will run slic3r and generate gcode. Which pronterface will then send to the printer (after you have connected and hit print) First thing to check is you configure slic3r from pronterface (settings|slicer setting) should start up slic3r If it doesnt you need to check settings|options in pronterfaceby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Since your able to read the temp, Im thinking the thermistor is fine. Witch leaves the firmware, and FET and micro to check It sounds like the firmware is fine, if it can read the temp and turn on the heater it should be able to turn it off. If you just turn it on and leave it the hot end does stay at room temp? (ie its not always heating is it?) If your up to some soldering swap your two Fby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Teacup is really old firmware, most use Sprinter or Marlin. There is a configuration for ramps 1.2 in sprinter. It doesnt look like marlin supports the older ramps. link for sprinter ReplicatorG is also not the best, it looks fancy but... are you trying to make a makerbot?? I recommend Pronterface and use slic3r for you slicer But if you insist on RepG... Check the generated gcode, tby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Not quite parts but... This should work, if you wire up a cable between it and your SL I haven't tried this yet... is on my to try list.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group