Update... using a more powerful fan now (Scythe Glide Stream SY1425HB12H) since the old one didn't seem to cool down the printed parts good enough - see Flickr album here:von HaDe - Delta Machines
>> Weil ich das Problem selbst gelöst habe. << Genial... doch ich find's ja schon einigermaßen frech, meine Lösung (Message vom 24.11.) einfach komplett und wortwörtlich zu kopieren und (Message vom 8.12.) als Deine auszugeben...von HaDe - Software
Locker bleiben...schau da: Postvon HaDe - Software
BTW I took a chance with Repetier firmware last week (latest development branch as of 2013-11-20), found it to work fine in general BUT experienced problems with lost steps on longer prints from SD card. Anyone got Repetier firmware working reliably yet (and if so, which version)?von HaDe - Delta Machines
>> but when I move to 50mm -Y, the bed is off 0.010 or more.<< Other than mechanical problems (slop in the linear bearings or rod connectors, drive filament not REALLY tight, etc.) it might be a warped bed - this is what I found with mine too. Also, slightly warps or other tolerances in the plastic parts (remember those were made with simple and usually not perfectly calibrated 3D pvon HaDe - Delta Machines
>> It randomly shows , + ' *. (- etc, single character at a time instead of the correct X or Y position i.e a number << Same here, but only while printing. The display apears to show the correct position when standing still (after performing some moves using the LCD UI). Haven't bothered to debug this yet... Glad you got your 3DR working! Mine is printing happily without major probvon HaDe - Delta Machines
AndyCart & tesseract, re. your problem of corrupt moves when commanded from the LCD UI: I examined Rich's code and found the delta implementation to be incomplete - seems to work for moves commanded by G-Code (from USB and SD-Card) but module ultralcd.cpp (where moves commanded from LCD UI are computed) looks like an older version which doesn't know about Delta Printers, so this perfectly expvon HaDe - Delta Machines
It would help if you could post the changed files or the exact differences... will take a look tomorrow - till then, good night!von HaDe - Delta Machines
Works fine here, but with a different Marlin FW (Kossel deltabot branch, because I finished my 3DR quite some time ago before Richard posted his FW). I'll try to check the FW differences tomorrow. Did you change anything?von HaDe - Delta Machines
Three problems if I understand correctly: 1) unreliable USB connection: for the RUMBA board, I noticed that short cables (< 1 m) mostly work ok but longer ones (I need 3 m for my current setup) can be troublesome - had to try a few until I found one that works reliably. 2) funny movement only with UI: not clear from the video what you're actually doing but it appears that you're trying to covon HaDe - Delta Machines
Hmm... those hall effect sensor boards require the endstop pullups to be disabled (ENDSTOPPULLUPS *not* defined). Other than that, it could also be a wiring problem (connectors reversed etc.)...von HaDe - Delta Machines
Well I can't tell for sure (currently at work) but you should be able to check/display the endstop status by manually issuing a M119 command. With stepper power off, just move the carriages to/from the endstops and see what status you get.von HaDe - Delta Machines
Not about to dwelve much into (one of the various bed levelling threads should be a better place for discussing) this but I'd rather consider advanced proximity sensord like the Sharp GP2Y0D805 or Vishay VCNL4000.von HaDe - Delta Machines
Den aktuellen Stand auf Github bekomme ich leider auch nicht übersetzt... Die 0.9.10b erzeugt bei mir in der Wand von Bohrungen immer eine dicke Reihe Blobs (fährt blödsinnigerweise mit Travel-Speed über den inneren Perimeter hinaus) - bin erstmal auf 0.9.1 zurückgegangen.von HaDe - Software
Also nach dem Wechsel auf einen schnellen & kräftigen Extruder mit entspr. heftigen Retracteinstellungen hatte ich immer wieder Ärger mit 4mm-Pushfits verschiedener Hersteller: da die schon vom Prinzip her nicht für diese Art von Belastung gebaut sind und das Teflon auch ziemlich weich ist, schneiden sich die beweglichen Halteklingen in das Rohr ein, es bekommt immer mehr Spiel und reißt schlvon HaDe - Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
You mean the small fan on the underside of the carriage? This one is meant to cool the nozzle holder (not the print), though you might get along without one if you print only PLA and take care not to let it sit there heated up for prolonged times. I use a 20x20 fan stuck to the carriage (effector) with double sided tape.von HaDe - Delta Machines
>> Where can I buy those self adhesive heating foils? << With my setup, the larger one will heat up the bed to 50°C quite nicely (and top out at approx. 60°C, though it will take some time), which works fine for PLA. The smaller one will do more than 90°C which allows printing (small) ABS parts. Alas the 5mm cork insulation seems to be inadequate to protect the PLA printed basevon HaDe - Delta Machines
>> Also, cheap linear bearings. They are just so cheap, its hard to resist. Get good linear bearings. It makes a huge difference in delta printers. << Well I admit going for those dirt cheap chinese linear bearings too... but I went ahead and bought 20 of those and selected the best ones (read: with minimal slack) which are actually quite good.von HaDe - Delta Machines
Looks fine! (and nice choice of color ;-) My intent was to have a USB socket at the base, too... but the space inside the columns is too cramped already. 217mm Z... mine had 200mm with hotends.com J-Head and a 3mm bed, now 194mm because of the heater & insulation. Column length is 480mm. Keep us updated...von HaDe - Delta Machines
Haven't tried mirror glass yet... as mentioned I should receive a carbon bed soon, will see how that one works. Ground glass sounds good, too. As for measuring flatness: to get a rough figure, I rocked a straightedge along various axes of the bed surface (that it could be rocked at all made me suspicious in the first place) while observing the upper edge of the straightedge with a dial gauge.von HaDe - Delta Machines
>> If your geometry is correct then you do not need to measure the center of the bed << Agreed... alas it actually *does* seem to be hard to find a really flat glass bed. I had one locally made from 4 mm glass and also ordered the Borosilicate one from Trinitylabs: both are slightly (and rather irregularily) bent, despite a 3 point moint which should not introduce bending loads. Thevon HaDe - Delta Machines
Thanks for the pointer... I always found MPJET to make very fine modeling accessoires, alas those can be hard to find here in Germany - I certainly would like to give MPJ 2451B a try. Just added new bed support spacers and a 140 mm fan.von HaDe - Delta Machines
From my experience with model helicopters, crimping would help temporarily but the slack will come back :-) ... ok, forces are much lower here so we might get away with that. Before the Traxxas, I tried Igus KBRM-02 industrial rod ends - NO play but VERY tight so the M2 screws kept rotating and I had to tighten those so much the balls deformed - no good. Maybe I try KBRM-03 MH next which are larvon HaDe - Delta Machines
I added pictures of the new extruder and heated bed to my Flickr 3DR album: No, my FW is based on this Marlin branch: I've seen the M666 command, simple enough... but I'd like to have (read: write myself ;-)) a user interface for display/knob for doing the actual adjustment procedure - the storage and usage of the adjustment values would be quite similar to the M666 implementation though. Asvon HaDe - Delta Machines
Nice going DM! I found the slot webs make for a tight and square fit of the extrusions (crucial to the precision of the printer), so I wouldn't want to miss those. As mentioned in a previous post, I built the connecting rods similar to yours (but slightly larger Traxxas parts and 5od/4id carbon tube. What I didn't like is the weight of the set screws, I should use a carbon rod instead next timevon HaDe - Delta Machines
I didn't really like the KCmodels links (some were ok but most had too much slack) so I went for Traxxas #5347 instead.. 3mm Ball bore and M4 inside the shaft. I did not use the 3DR rod adapters but went for 5mm OD / 4mm ID carbon tubes and M4x16 set screws glued into the tube ends. 45 deg (actually a bit less with #5347) works just fine for a print radius of up to 80mm.von HaDe - Delta Machines
>> So you dressed to size the printed plastic part and the aluminium extrusion.<< Not really resizing... I just angled (chamfered or rounded) all edges where the extrusion enters the base, using a sharp pointed knife (scalpel). This made for the extrusion slipping into the base much easier.von HaDe - Delta Machines
At first I thought it wouldn't fit, too - but after removing some artifacts from the (although fine and well calibrated) printed parts - effectively making chamfers on all edges where the extrusion has to enter, and also on the extrusion itself - it *did* fit, however very tight. The extrusions had to be pushed in with quite some force (which I believe is a good thing for precise angles). >&gvon HaDe - Delta Machines
>> Missing link: 3 x Hall effect end-stops (I'm using RepRapDiscount versions, here) << You might want to go to the reprapdiscout site and enter "hall" into their search field.von HaDe - Delta Machines
>> Did you need a tap for the push-fit Bowden connectors, or did you self-thread it somehow? << Cold End: selfthreading Hot End: I currently use one of those chinese J-Heads which already has a 1/8 thread at the top of the PEEK nozzle holder, so I could drill the J-Head mount to a constant 16mm (the OD of the nozzle holder) from top to bottom and the Pushfit went right into the nozzvon HaDe - Delta Machines