Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 16 of 16
I seem to be having a loss of detail on my X axis.
I turn the part 90 degrees and it looks amazing.
The detail isn't completely gone, but you can tell it looks "dissolved" or loose. Any ideas?
Is this possibly a loose belt? What else could possibly cause this?
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Lemon juice, that's genius!!
PLA = poly lactic acid. It's organic and can decompose overtime.
Lemon juice is a highly acidic blend of citric, ascorbic, and malic acids.
Maybe it eats away at the PLA just enough to grip it. Awesome find.
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Hello all,
I'm running a makerbot replicator dual with sailfish firmware.
I use a micrometer to level my bed platform after doing a clearance check on one corner, and am printing with ABS @ 225C, heated bed @ 105C.
I have had hundreds of successful prints at these settings, but recently I cannot get large objects to print propertly. It's really infuriating as I've nearly torn the unit down for m
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Thank you! I'll try changing the export settings in my modeling software.
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Hey all,
I recently upgraded my makerbot replicator dual firmware to sailfish and have been loving the improvements.
I am however noticing an issue that I'm having trouble fixing.
My circles over a certain size seem to be very...geometricly basic. Even on some standard curves I can see the same issue. The circles are no longer perfectly circular, I have very visible facets.
Is a large item I'm
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Have you ever squeezed your toothpaste tube too hard? This is layer height The layer width would be the toothpaste that comes out that falls all over your toothbrush.
by
mortinus
-
Printing
How mathematically minded are you? :p
If you can get yourself an accurate environment temperature sensor you can take that data and use it. An Infrared thermal gun can get you true heated bed temp..you also can calculate your mm/sec extrusiuon rate based on fall distance of 100mm nozzle above plate, and since plastics cool at a constant rate in a static temperature environment...well..you get the
by
mortinus
-
Printing
These are great animations thank you! It helped me visualize exactly what happens to the bead of plastic when it's too small to adhere!
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Seems like you've got a ton of responses but I'll toss in my 2 cents.
ABS CANNOT melt @ 170 deg. It doesn't even begin to soften yet, and PLA is near liquid at this temp. That's really your tell right there...
I've been able to print with as far up as 230 with PLA, but with a TON of cooling and an open window to the wintry cold. I find that the head temperature reading is highly inaccurate unles
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Yes Cameron exactly. That is why gcode is so important and I was saying that if you have it set incorrectly (saying you have a nozzle smaller than you actually do, you will end up with the issue I detailed.
by
mortinus
-
Printing
I've encountered what I like to call "looping" when the extrusion speed exceeds the travel rates ability to keep the same diameter line. Try reducing your extrusion speed or increasing your travel rate while extruding.
This can also happen if there are blockages in the nozzle itself because the extruder gears push the plastic through into the liquification chamber at a set rate, but it isn't ext
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Hi there! I'd love to help you isolate this problem.
I believe it has to do directly with the extruder head temperature. If you can provide me some more information i'm sure we can nail it down. Based off your information, here's some ideas;
PLA starts liquifying at around 185C. At 200C, it definitely seeps and drips out of the nozzle as the force of gravity is too much for it to bear! If your o
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Notice how the angles of the print is almost a 45? I want to say you're moving your X at nearly twice what you should be.
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Hi there, I've worked profesionally with 3D printers for about 3 years.
What you're talking about the flat bottom is completely normal when you print without a raised raft. Because you're printing with a thermoset that is a liquid that turns to a solid, it naturally takes and saves the physical imperfections/structure of the surface beneath it.
In order to prevent physical imperfections from wh
by
mortinus
-
Printing
This might be a shot in the dark but are you sure you have your filament diameter and nozzle diameter numbers set correctly? All the actual lines of gcode that's generated are based upon these pieces of information. For instance if you want a cube that is 10mm wide, and your nozzle diameter is .4mm, it starts the part laying down a bead (circle) that is .4mm in diameter. We then have 9.6mm left f
by
mortinus
-
Printing
Is there any way you could take more detailed pictures of the contact surface of the feeding unit and the plastic itself?
After reading all of the posts I have a couple ideas that need pictures to eliminate..here's one of them.
Are the teeth that grip/feed the filament sharp enough? This normally shouldn't be a problem if spaced correctly, but not all units are spaced properly for the varying dia
by
mortinus
-
Printing