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Printing issues ...
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I'm going to switch to linear rails for X and Y. I got MGN15-1H-666 for Y-axis and MGN9-2H-746 for X-axis (robotdigg). I'm considering doing something like the drawing below. Attach the Y rail under a 4040 extrusion and have X-axis hanging from it. Route the belts between the Y-axis and the two X-axis rails. Any thoughts?
Did a stand for a laptop and its thunderbolt dock. It's amazing how easy
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quoteprot0typ1cal
Love the 3 screw set up, perfect for auto bed leveling.
Yep, when you done a bit of work on the printer/bed its really easy to get it level again with the duets auto bed levelling feature.
QuoteMKSA
What kind of bushings are you using on the vertical rods ?
Printed with Igus I180. These were the first I printed. They are printed in spiral mode. I changed the design slightly f
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Section analysis to an idea of how the case looks inside.
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I managed to install the 1605 ball screws with decent results. The z-banding is pretty mush eliminated. I bought the ball screws from banggood. I finally managed to get one perfect and two decent ball screws after going through a total of 7 ball screws. Don't know if they get bent during shipping or if they are just bad quality. The replacements shipped with china post was slightly less bent tha
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
HI,
M574 X1 Y2 Z0 S0
You have configured Y endstop to be at highend.
G1 S1 Y-240
In homeall.g it looks like you home it to low end?
Where are your origin? It’s usually top front left corner but when you do your first homing move “G1 S1 X-240 Y-240 F3000” it looks like the origin on your printer is top left back?
It might be that you switched connectors for x and y steppers or have to switch
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quoteprot0typ1cal
Looks like what you need is end supports (bearing mounts).
Your set up looks really nice but do fixing the screw in both ends really help with this problem? I would have thought that it would make it even worse…
Part of my problem might be that my leadscrews are not perfectly straight. I have 1605s on the way (same as you I believe), should arrive in the beginning of next wee
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
You might want to take a look at HercuLien and Eustathios (Ultimaker style printers) on this google group. There's links to the designs and you might find inspiration and ideas you can incorporate into your design.
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I have decided to try a mount with a bearing above the coupler to stabilize the leadscrew a bit. Having the stepper on top and the leadscrew “hang” down would have been better than have the stepper in its current configuration (fixed at the bottom and floating at the top) but as I want to keep it out of the enclosure that is not possible. The long leadscrew might bend a bit under the weight (or b
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Thanks for your feedback guys! Lots of things to consider…
I'll have to weigh the bed, I do imagine it will be a few kilos...
Quotedc42
2. Lifting force. Delta printers only need to lift an effector, which is normally light in weight. You will need to lift the mass of the bed. The required torque needed per motor is:
required_torque = (bed_mass * g)/(pulley_radius * number_of_motors)
The radi
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I’m thinking of trying belts instead of leadscrew for z-axis to see if I can eliminate z-wobble. I’m going to use three independent steppers for the bed levelling feature of the Duet. Currently I use 17HS19-2004S1 for the lead screws. Would it be possible use this stepper with 16 or 20 tooth pulley (no gears) to drive the belt? Feels like the resolution would be a bit too low? Without microsteppi
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42
You already have quite a large capacitor in parallel (the big one in the picture). What you need is a resistor or even better an inductor between the Duet and the pump. Best would be an inductor of at least 100uH used with a high PWM frequency e.g. 50 or 100kHz. You must add a flyback diode if your Duet PCB is not the 1.02 revision. If you use a resistor, try a few tens of ohms.
Finall
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Hi Allan,
Sorry for the late reply, I have not worked mush on this project last months, partly because of the amount of changes I want to try and the amount of work it will require that I don’t know where to start.
I would be more that happy to share the stuff I have with you (and anyone else that’s interested) but I would not recommend you build this printer in its current state. It is a work
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I use Cura 2.6 and 2.7-beta atm. Don't know what version it was added, sorry...
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lars.arvidson
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Printing
Have you tried combing mode "no skin" or "off" in combination with z-hop?
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lars.arvidson
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Printing
Quoteo_lampe
What's written on the 6-pin IC at the top left?
G235
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Printed same vase as yesterday. First bit at 100% speed (40mm/s), second at 150% (60mm/s), third at 200% (80mm/s) fourth at 250% (100mm/s) and last bit at 300% (120mm/s). Changed the temp from 200 to 210 on the last bit. At 120mm/s the printer did some irregular popping sounds (hard to describe) I could not quite locate…
Not that big difference in the artefacts between the different speeds. The
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42
Quotelars.arvidson
Printed a pretty big spiral vase . Its about 380mm high. I intended to print it at 0.2mm layer height and 80mm/s but forgot that Cura spiral mode (not surprisingly) use outer wall speed which is defaulted to half of the print speed unless set explicitly so it printed at 40mm/s. Took a bit extra time to complete
You could have turned the speed slider in DWC up to 20
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Printed a pretty big spiral vase . Its about 380mm high. I intended to print it at 0.2mm layer height and 80mm/s but forgot that Cura spiral mode (not surprisingly) use outer wall speed which is defaulted to half of the print speed unless set explicitly so it printed at 40mm/s. Took a bit extra time to complete
Original picture
From a distance, it looks good but if you light it from above and
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Printed a few stringing tests. There’s quite a difference between the extruder with the original cable and the one with the new cable. With same settings, same filament brand and type (not same coluor), the extruder with old cable produce a lot of hair fine stringing/fluff while the other prints with only minimal stringing. The last cable should arrive in a few days.
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist
I wouldn't put the fan on the same ground as the endstop and thermistor. Fans generate noise, the last thing you want on the thermistor input.
Quotedc42
The thermistor needs a separate ground, because on the Duet it connects to VSSA (analog ground) instead of normal ground. In theory the fan and probe could share a ground, but if that ground wire breaks then 24V will be
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quoteekaggrat
See the bukito . It uses flat cables for cable management and is very neat. U can use multiple parallel lines for higher amps
Thanks for the suggestion. I do however feel a flat cable is not the best match for a printer where the hotend moves both in x and y. There’s also the flexible driveshaft and the air tube running to the hotend.
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I find my cable management a bit lacking as I have stated before. The cables to the hotend can easily get to mush tension (start pulling on the connectors or wear against the carriage) or get too loose (get stuck on the frame or the other carriage).
I have been looking at using something like a cat6 cable. They have 8 conductors, are cheap and readily available. Endstops, fan, pt100 temperature s
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Nice to see its working!
Still waiting for that first print!
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I been printing some dual color froggs lately (thingiverse).
I have had problems with (among other things) stringing and zits. I have gotten one new flexible drive shaft for the Nimble (still waiting for the other one) and both breach blocks replaced but the big difference was change of slicer settings. The left frog in the picture below is with old settings and right with new settings (same hard
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quoteprot0typ1cal
Yea, Lars' is like mine.
Hmm...
One of the left hand stepper turning clockwise on your printer will move the belt to the right on the back side as far as I can se from the pictures on the first page..?
One of the left hand stepper turning clockwise on my printer will move the belt to the left on the back side....
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Quoteprot0typ1cal
I'm wondering if my error is from not homing the axis, though that might be hard given the wonky Y.
Doubt it, I have never needed to home axis to get it to work...
If you still want to try you can use G92 to set the pos af all axis and they will marked as homed me think.
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
I’m using three Nema 17 45Ncm 2A steppers for a 500x500x8mm bed (don’t know what the entire bed and mounting weighs) with 2mm pitch leadscrews and dc42 duet wifi (24V).
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lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
Cable management/wiring will the bane of my project... One of the PT100 hotend temp had been acting up a bit lately. When I took a closer look it turns out that one of the wire was broken...
by
lars.arvidson
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CoreXY Machines
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