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For those interested there is good information here:
and these people are collecting resources:
by
Zedsquared
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General
Thanks for the info!
I've gone with a set of robotdigg stainless.
Cheers,
Robin.
by
Zedsquared
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Delta Machines
HI Follks,
I'm slowly upgrading bits of my Kossel Mini and am thinking about moving to linear rails as the truck roller wheels I have had up to now don't seem to get on very well with my new 2020 extrusions.
So, what's the current state of play regarding linear rails?
Are the robotdigg cheap options any good?
What represents good value for money these days in your opinion?
All info
by
Zedsquared
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Delta Machines
Alternate guess (though the above is also a good thing to check) :
Cura is explicitly adding the Gcode for a 120mm Z move, check the 'start Gcode' setting under (I think) printer properties.
Cheers,
Robin.
by
Zedsquared
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General
It will stop at the desired temperature and apply heat as necessary to maintain that temperature from then on until you issue a command to stop heating.
... if everything is working properly of course
by
Zedsquared
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General
Why do all these articles seem to assume that the ammunition is undetectable too? Surely a few grams of lead and brass will show up nicely on an xray and metal detectors?
by
Zedsquared
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General
Maybe a bit of the bed has developed a dip so that probing goes so low that the Z endstops are hit before the probe triggers?
It might have been on the edge before and so only a few fractions of a mm made the difference.
Or possibly (just noticed you are using IR Z probe) you have ended up with a non IR reflective patch or a point where the wires are flexed in such a way that a bad crimp comes in
by
Zedsquared
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General
I think it's only the Prusa edition of slic3r that has that, still free, but a different download :
by
Zedsquared
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General
I reckon GFID = Ground Fault Interrupter Device ... there seem to be quite a few names for these things!
by
Zedsquared
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General
Check to see if your firmware has a maximum PWM setting that can be changed, you might want to set it to 50% of its present value.
by
Zedsquared
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General
How about using a bit of filament with a groove in it as a nib, you could retract it up through an ink reservoir to "dip" it. Then draw on the fabric after extending it again.
This assumes the ink is too viscous to readily flow through the gap between the filament and reservoir.
Advantage is you've already got everything you need to move filament about
By increasing the width of the groove a
by
Zedsquared
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General
Be aware that the firmware might stop your motor move commands being issued for a number of reasons such as:
An end stop input might be activated and the direction of motor turn would normally drive against this end stop (use M119 to check end stop state).
Some firmwares won't allow the extruder motor to run if the hot end thermistor is not sensing a suitably high temperature (as this would nor
by
Zedsquared
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General
Is this a bad time to mention Roko's Basilisk?
by
Zedsquared
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General
To aid your searching ... stage supporting stuff is generally called truss or trussing, as a random example :
Also the patterns for optical tracking are often known as fiducials:
UV is used to cure many resins, you could have banks of UV leds on the printhead to get the outer skin set quickly.
by
Zedsquared
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General
Not quite what you were asking for, but slic3r Prusa edition can do layer heights that vary with Z:
by
Zedsquared
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General
I reckon you could do a slow chunky linear motion system using wiper motors ratcheting along steering racks... 1 step per 25mm or something
by
Zedsquared
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General
Probably easier to make an HPGL to Gcode translator then print to file using a plotter driver ... Ah, here you go , someone has already done it:
Or this:
by
Zedsquared
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General
Sounds like the filament is getting too hard to push through the extruder so possibly:
The current isn't set right for the extruder motor so it can't push hard enough.
How you adjust this varies depending on the electronics you have.
The fan isn't cooling the hotend properly so the cold bit gets too hot and the filament gets sticky on it's way to the melt zone.
Is the fan ru
by
Zedsquared
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General
I've noticed that F5 rendering doesn't deal with co-incident surfaces (especially involving subtractions) as well as F6.
With F5 you get "Z fighting" with shimmering surfaces which must be composed of a whole load of triangles which would add considerably to the rendering burden in the preview screen.
Perhaps that's what's going on?
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Zedsquared
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OpenSCAD
Just a thought, but do you oil your PLA like some do to stop hot end jams?
If so then maybe that's affecting the surface.
by
Zedsquared
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General
I managed the pangolin on printbite in both PLA and PETG, I don't have the room to do it all at once though so it was in four sections plus a plate of limbs.
It was a bit of a challenge, with the pointy ends of the shell segments always peeling up at first. I had to run the PLA quite high (no squish on the first layer) and hot to achieve success, the PETG used pretty much the same settings.
I d
by
Zedsquared
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General
Quotethis hotend configurable between 1.75 and 3.00 by swapping the liner,
I've seen this claim on a UK manufactured J-head clone I bought from ebay before ... however the melt chamber remains at 3mm dia which, I think, caused me oozing problems as I guess retraction wasn't doing much.
Cheers,
Robin.
by
Zedsquared
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General
Does your software give a temperature graph? Check it for spikes, I had similar problems once and it turned out to be the contacts on the thermistor to board plug.
After re crimping the contacts the errors went away and the temperature curve was way smoother.
Cheers,
Robin.
by
Zedsquared
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General
Yay! more transputer people
I worked for the company making the B0xx boards as general tech underling and QA chap in 1986ish, got to play with (sorry, "Soak Test") some nice big arrays and have occasional cool times with inmos R&D people.
I've still got a couple of ISA cards with T800's on them somewhere I think. Best were the double eurocard B042 just crammed with processors (42 of them
by
Zedsquared
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General
This might be of interest:
Discussion:
by
Zedsquared
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General
I just took a quick video ... All the clear plastic fan mount etc below the black effector/ extruder is my own, not that which came with the kit (I was using a 24V fan that was bigger than the one the kit mount was designed for) hope this helps!
Kossel mini with flex3drive in action
Cheers,
Robin.
by
Zedsquared
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General
Be aware that there is strong opinion that disassembly of new steppers will demagnetise them and reduce torque or stop proper function:
by
Zedsquared
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General
Sounds like a good solution to me! Pin through connectors are much more resistant to accidental physical tweaking.
Cheers,
Robin.
by
Zedsquared
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General
make sure you have soldered both the earth lugs on the sides of the connector and the four little contacts on the back of the socket. Chances are you ripped a track off the PCB when the socket was pulled off.
Any chance of a photo?
by
Zedsquared
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General
To quote from openscad docs:
QuoteAfter rendering with F6, the "File --> Export" menu can be used to export as STL, OFF, AMF, DXF, SVG, CSG OR PNG (Image).
So maybe the DXF output is useful as a bridge to other CAD systems (never tried it).
My favorite CAD is openSCAD when making things that have an engineering use and have to be certain dimensions. For sculpting things to look at I use m
by
Zedsquared
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General
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