To RRP: The current Ormerod web site is a complete mess. It has the shape of the Internet in 1996. Shame on you. Please keep in mind, the instructions are part of the product you sold. You let your customers down by constant unavailability. I think, there is no reason to update the site all day long, once a day should do. It would be advisable to separate instructions and shop if you need to uby adsoftware - Ormerod
I think, some work is underway for multi-colour, but I'm not sure how this would be mounted.by adsoftware - Ormerod
The bed problem is hard to solve. That's why I may do a complete redesign of the Y axis. I will probably add another aluminium extrusion and use a traditional Y carriage like this. If the acrylic side plates are replaced by printed parts, they even become self-replicating. I'm also thinking about rolling the bed in the aluminium extrution using V-wheels like these guys do. Already experimentiby adsoftware - Ormerod
I like your mods, 3djim. Do you get better printing results, now that you moved the extruder unit away from the x axis, I guess there's no sagging anymore?by adsoftware - Ormerod
For those who are interested in ABS printed parts, you might want to have a look at my eBay auctionby adsoftware - Ormerod
For further experiments, I'm trying to compile the firmware within the Arduino IDE. I went to GitHub and grabbed the RepRapFirmware files. I renamed the folder into RepRapFirmware. I also downloaded Arduino-libraries from GitHub and added those files to the RepRapFirmware folder. Trying to compile in Arduino IDE, I'm still getting "fatal error: utility/compiler.h: No such file", even if the filby adsoftware - Ormerod
Is there a way to make the Ormerod talk to ReplicatorG? I'm using that software with another machine and it does a nice job. Would be great if that works.by adsoftware - Ormerod
We all know how important the bed level is for printing quality. I like the route, this guy here on Youtube has taken to get rid of bed leveling. The best part is you don't have to screw anything and it's done every time right before printing fully automated. Maybe an additional motor on the Z arm could move the Ormerod bed slightly up and down for leveling?by adsoftware - Ormerod
I saw a printer today that had this Blue Tape on top of the Kapton Tape. I seems to help a lot for stickiness and might be also good for the Ormerod, has anyone tested yet?by adsoftware - Ormerod
I'm guilty, I miswired. The switch was plugged to Z Motor (interestingly the LED switched, too) That happened when I reassembled without reading carefully. My apologies and thank you as always for your instant help.by adsoftware - Ormerod
Just to clarify, when I view the machine from the front, the plate goes left when Y+ is clicked, and to the right when Y- in pronterface is clicked, is that OK? Regarding the colors: Motor from top to down: black, red, green, blue Board starting from power side: red, blue, green, blackby adsoftware - Ormerod
The LED is lit and also turns off when is switch is hit manually. Only thing is, the switch isn't hit when Y Homing is processed. The plate only runs in the opposite direction when Y Homing.by adsoftware - Ormerod
I was wondering why the plate doesn't run to y motor upon Y Homing. The macro for Y Homing contains the line: G1 Y220 F2000 S1 Just checked this command in Pronterface and it is being ignored! If I skip the S1 and send G1 Y220 F2000, it certainly moves to the endstop but overruns it. I tried with G91 before and G90 before, but no luck in both cases.by adsoftware - Ormerod
I could solve the stuttering issue above. Within the heater block, there was a gap between the upper steal nozzle and the brass unit of the Bowden tube. That blocked the filament flow.by adsoftware - Ormerod
The extruder gears are moving, however all few seconds they hackle terribly and move reverse a little. I think they have a hard time to get the filament through the nozzle end. Previously, the filament baked a little together with the tube at the heater end which I cut and cleaned. I suspect, the nozzle is rather dirty inside, because I'm seeing a dark white plastic coming out at times. So, how wby adsoftware - Ormerod
I managed to wire the switch properly and the LED is lit. The switch was a little hard to plug, but OK now.by adsoftware - Ormerod
Good to know that gcode file determines the condition, just opened a file that says: M190 S65 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached Alright, now if I click "Extrude" in PronterFace, I get the juice out of the nozzle at ca 200 C. Starting a print request " Snow Man", the printer mimics to print, but no plastic is flowing, it moves according toby adsoftware - Ormerod
Hi all, is there any precondition for printing, so if temperature of hot end or bed isn't reported to the board, it won't start the print? (Reason for asking: I know my cable has to be sorted out, so there is no hot end temperature until tomorrow morning and printing is being refused by Mr Ormerod for now) Which interface are you guys using to start a print, Web UI, PronterFace or any other?by adsoftware - Ormerod
Indeed, I cut the middle and left it open a tiny bit and the reading is quite accurate. In fact, I get the same temp result as from my other thermometers.by adsoftware - Ormerod
My finding was that the legs of the thermistor have to be fully isolated else they could touch the heating block which results in false reading (my guess only). After covering the legs with only the resistor left free, I got pretty accurate readings.by adsoftware - Ormerod
As far as I've read, an LED near the Y motor pins on the board should indicate that the Y end stop is alive. But only darkness here on my end. Is there a way to test whether the end stop actually works? Can I see a response in the UI if the end stop has been hit?by adsoftware - Ormerod
I'm not sure if I like the ATX power supply because it's so noisy. For another project I'm using the 200 watts version of this Thing, which is totally quiet. Would that any hurt the Duet? I believe, I could skip the power PCB as well and connect directly to the Duet provided I feed the 5V over USB. Does anyone know the maximum power consumption of the Omerod with all heating and motors and elby adsoftware - Ormerod
The cause of a wrong thermistor reading is most probably with the connector. I just put the thermistor directly to the duet using jumper wires and it reads the room temperature just fine. So try improving the connection or use a separate cable for the thermistor.by adsoftware - Ormerod