I have just started having a similar problem, the filament (PLA) seems to shatter if left for a few days. This coincides with me using an airbrush with Lacquer based paint in the same room. Cleaning the airbrush entails the use of some pretty nasty stuff. Just wondering if this coincides with anyone else?by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Sven. I'm sorry, I don't actually have a full model as I had thought. I modified the original casing when I added a fan for the duet shield. Would a copy of that enclosure work? It's the ormerod 1 enclosure.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Sven. I have a model done in Solidworks. I will export it for you, what format do you want? Adam.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello everyone. Is anyone interested in a cooler/enclosure for the duet + duet shield for the Ormerod 1? I was a bit concerned with the heat from the processor and stepper drivers when the 2 boards are sandwiched together, so I came up with this. The ambient here gets up to 28 deg C. half of the fans output is ducted in between the 2 boards, whilst the other half is blown onto the rear of thby Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Ian. Thanks for your reply. Let me address your points. The first thing to work out is if it's a blockage at the nozzle tip (ie contamination), or if it's that heat is TRAVELLING up the hot end, and melting the filament too high up. When it blocks, is the cooling block still cool? I didn't have chance to check the temperature of the cooling block. If you can remove the filament, especby Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi Windfurian. Were you using the supplied acrylic spacer and fan? was it printing then stopping part way through without warning? I ended up cutting and drilling some aluminium so I could mount two old style nozzles. I had to pack some thin plastic sheet between the isolator and X carriage to get the nozzles aligned. Managed to successfully print a few things before I went away. I hope we canby Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi Guys. I've been away for a few weeks and just got the chance to tinker with my dual nozzle setup again. I decided to use the acrylic spacer this time as before I was using a nozzle of my own design (which was working fine with the old style nozzles in dual configuration). I set the nozzles as instructed, with the heatbreak just below the block. I thought this had solved the issue, until 2by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Ian. Thanks for having a look into this. I had to disassemble the hotend when I swaped to the old style nozzles, I didn't take a photo at the time either. One thing I remember is that the nozzles were much lower than they are now, so I think I might have had too much above the heat break sticking out of the heat sink block. That makes sense now I think about it. I don't plan on rebuildinby Yella3D - Ormerod
That's really nice Erik. I don't print as much ABS as I should, I can't stand the fumes! Tomas, you are correct, Acetone only works on ABS. For PLA Tetrahydrofuran (THF) has the same effect, but it's really nasty stuff!by Yella3D - Ormerod
Well, I managed to got both old nozzles printing good, just need to sort the offset now as my skills are a little off. Was quite lucky, I managed to get the nozzles planer in 2 attempts. I'm a bit miffed that I forked out for the whole kit now, as I'm now only using the board!by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Windfurian. Are you using the supplied acrylic mount and fan from RRP? I'm going to make another heat sink block so I can use the old style nozzles. It will be a PITA to set them both level, but at least it will eliminate the nozzles totally. I will PM the resident RRP guy (can't remember his name right now) and have him look at the post too.by Yella3D - Ormerod
I give up! Now the .5 nozzle is doing the same thing, but it isn't over extruding! I'll try again tomorrow, and do some more swapping around.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hey guys thanks again for your input. I think I may have found the issue, but not before I knocked up a new heat sink block to hold 1 original m5 nozzle (.3) and 1 new quickset nozzle (.5). I did this because I was convinced that the new quickset nozzles were at fault in some way. I ended up with the nozzles the opposite way round, so I had to change my slicer settings over. I started a test priby Yella3D - Ormerod
So I've disassembled and checked everything again, all looks good. I unscrewed the Bowden tube from the nozzle and drilled it out to 2.5 mm again, Tamino was right, as much ptfe was removed as the first pass, I thought this might do the job figuring that it was a bit tight on the inside before. I'm not sure if the Bowden tubing expands with heat, which now with having a thicker ptfe wall would bby Yella3D - Ormerod
ZPL/Tamino. Thank you both for your input. I will have another look at things when I get home. I will make sure all the surfaces are flat and clean, I did make sure everything was good when assembling, but it wont hurt to look again. I did square of the end a few times during disassembly/assembly. I had operating and standby temps set the same, so there was no pause. it's only a small test priby Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello fellow ormerodians. I've spent the last 2 days fighting to get a print from my new quickset 0.3mm nozzle which came with my dual extrusion mod from RRP. I've successfully printed many things with my old 0.3mm original (RRP M5 SS) nozzle, but this new one has had me pulling my hair out! I've tried 2 different .3 nozzles, stripped, cleaned and reassembled them a few times, but still no go.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Thanks DC. I think it's actually more an issue with the nozzle blocking now. Never had a problem before changing to the new quickset nozzles.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Guys. If I wanted to increase the motor current for the second extruder, would the command line M906 X1200 Y1200 Z800 E1000:1000 be correct? I think I read it somewhere, but I can't find it right now. Thanks.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi Dave. I got it working after switching out the heating element, but now I'm having some issues with the PID control of both heaters. I've given up for today, but I was heading in the right direction after reading through Tomas' other post. I didn't have an issue before changing to dual nozzle. Thanks again.by Yella3D - Ormerod
No worries Tim, got you now. Too bad they didn't have stock for you.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi Dave. Thanks for the response. After reading through the topic again, I did realize this. I managed to get extruder 2 to work correctly by some more trial and error. I traced the issue with extruder 1 to a faulty heating element, which im now trying to change without damaging the plug. I will report back when it's all working. Thanks again. Adam.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi Tomas. Do you mind posting a picture of your connections to the duet sheild please. Tomas/Dave. I've had the duet shield for a couple of weeks now, but have been putting it off because I knew I would have issues. Seeing how you and Dave have worked through my bigger fears, I decided to install it this weekend. I'm having a hard time getting my head around the numbering of the head, thermiby Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi TIm. I bought a few belts recently from ebay, . They shipped surprisingly fast too, but then I'm a little closer to China than you are. Quality seems good too, they don't indicate it, but the belts are reinforced. They have 976 and 1140 tooth belts, which are close to what you need. I built a turntable a while back and used a nema 17 stepper geared to give 1000 steps per revolution, workedby Yella3D - Ormerod
Ok, well a 45 degree overhang with your setup isn't putting much material under the overhanging. For something that doesn't have to be pretty, I would use a bigger nozzle. If you use a .3 nozzle with the same layer height, you will probably fare much better. You could also try and point an extra fan at that area whe it gets to it. You're also putting a lot of time into that print, adding a suppby Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Den. What layer height/nozzle diameter are you using? Are you using just the standard hot end cooler? Have you tried supports?by Yella3D - Ormerod
I have a tin of 3M Vinyl primer 94 at home, I keep meaning to try this on the heat bed. It's made to improve adhesion of vinyl sheet to less than perfect surfaces.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Shadow. I had not thought about a raft for this, however the use of a raft may not be ideal, but it would ensure that the print is parallel from top to bottom. I think we are only talking about a +/-.2mm difference, anymore than that, the bed should need mechanical leveling. Pandionx. That too is an interesting idea, however I feel as it is the printer that is at fault, it would be better toby Yella3D - Ormerod
DC/guys. I was thinking about something like this for my big build. I wasn't really thinking about software too much, more building around what is already in place. I was also going to use a closed loop belt and just 1 bigger stepper, so as to use only 1 stepper output. After thinking about it some more, thinking that 3 separate steppers was a better option and split the single output into 3by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hello Darathy. When you check manually (using a peice of paper under the nozzle, or by eye) what readings do you get? I'm guessing it isn't really 1.4mm higher at 1 corner. Make sure the hot end isn't getting held up by something at that corner etc.by Yella3D - Ormerod
Hi DC. This sounds perfect. Even if the extra spacing doesn't totally fix the issue, I could assign a sub directory to those sensitive commands and only have 1 command in that sub directory. As long as the cancel button is spaced well away from the 1st command in the subdirectory menu, it would work a treat. Thanks DC.by Yella3D - Ormerod