Andy, nice work there. I'd be really interested to see the results from the duct design I'm using. It's very good at reducing the draft and is quieter, but I'd like to see how much the output is reduced. The STL can be downloaded from here. ps are you skyscraper on fpvhub forum? Cheers, Timby tim_h - Ormerod
Ian, I've tried your suggestion and with the bowden tube removed it slots in very loosely. I can see it is going in far enough, and have I marked the depth on the tongue. When I put the bowden tube back, the tongue still goes in deep enough, there is just nothing to grip it in place and like greg says it can move up and down quite freely. What is supposed to hold it there?by tim_h - Ormerod
The bowden tube retaining tongue is very loose on my printer, to the point that during retractions it moves up and down, and the brass end on on the bowden tube is moving too. I have made sure it is the right way up ( tried both ways) and it's in as far as it can go. I have printed a new one to ensure it's not a defect of the the tongue, but the replacement is the same. My concern is that it willby tim_h - Ormerod
Thanks Andy, that's a good idea and should make it much more rigid. I might have a go at glueing it when I strip it down, but as the novelty has not worn off yet I spend all the free time I have printing stuff!by tim_h - Ormerod
Well done Greg. I'm trying to resolve my bent X rib, but mine is dead straight on the top, but has a curve along its bottom length. I'm sure I remember it slotted together very easily, so I'm not sure what is causing it? At X20 and X180 my z readings are the same but at X100 it is at least 0.5mm higher, with a gentle slope off either way. At first I thought the glass was bowed up in the centre. Aby tim_h - Ormerod
Forgot to add the photos to my earlier post. This design is working well for me, the only compromise is I have had to slide the electronics enclosure along by about 20mm. The fan seems to be quieter too. It might be my hearing, but it also sounds as if it is running faster as well, not sure if that would be possible though.by tim_h - Ormerod
I've made a short youtube video attempting to show the difference in turbulance. Sorry, it's a bit shakey! youtube.comby tim_h - Ormerod
I've been following this thread, but didn't like the idea of the louvered designs next to the fan. I'm not up with any of the 3d cad software yet, but I did find this design thingamaprint.com which I had a go at printing out. It needs support material to keep the guard away from the moving fan and my support structure would not come away from the circle properly, but it's fixed on without foulingby tim_h - Ormerod
QuoteTMD_RS436 QuotedroftartsDuet enclosure - we've done a number of mods to this. Usually squashing the clips on the top of ethernet socket helps, and the instructions show the proximity sensor connector with the pin bent down. Yeah, I did try pushing the Ethernet shielding tabs flush, but its still not enough. Paul I found I was able to snap off the clips quite cleanly. Just bend them in andby tim_h - Ormerod
Has the blue wire disconnected from the duet board?by tim_h - Ormerod
Matt, I wasn't sure how well it would scale, as I thought the tolerance between parts might get too small. But then I noticed you can customise the part on thingiverse. Looks very promising. I might have a play with making a smaller one tonight, although my wife has complained about me spending more time on the printer than with her over Christmas! Timby tim_h - Ormerod
Thanks, forgot to add signature... Ormerod #472by tim_h - Ormerod
Just wanted to say I'm quite proud of my latest print, bearing in mind this is only my 7th successful print so far. I'm really impressed with what the Ormerod can do, and can see once the few teething troubles are out of the way will be an excellent printer. My build of the printer has not been without problems, including a duff PSU and the usual connectivity issues, but with the support of theby tim_h - Ormerod
I'm following this thread with interest as it is one issue I find very frustrating. Really looking forward to be able to connect more reliably... One thing I have noticed though is that once I have connected with the web server for the first time, I can reset the printer, power down and re-start and then if the browser window is still open it will just work straightaway without having to enter tby tim_h - Ormerod
Hi Ian, the printer has now been running for over 2 hours without the PSU cutting out. I can't check the resistance at present as it is still running, but I'm pretty sure there is no short circuit. Maximum current draw is under 7 amps with bed heater on at present. I think for now we can assume the Alpine PSU was a faulty. You can cancel my request for a replacement, thanks. Edit: Sorry, just reby tim_h - Ormerod
Thanks Dave, but I don't think I'll bother asking for a new one, I think the 2nd hand ones I can get from work are better quality. They certainly seem more substantial, with decent sized capacitors inside.by tim_h - Ormerod
I have tried the 2nd hand ATX PSU, and after the usual dozen or so attempts to connect with the web interface, all is looking good. I'm now halfway through a 3 hour print and keeping my fingers crossed it will be OK. It was interesting to note the wires going to the 4 pole connector on the alpine PSU were only 20AWG approx 0.5mm^2. The wires on the HP ATX unit are much thicker 20AWG ~ 1.3mm^2. Alby tim_h - Ormerod
Quotegregstah I've now discovered that for some reason that I can not fathom the hot end assembly is at one angle when at X180 then changes to another angle when at X20 or so .... The result is that every time I make a print either the vent pipes are lifting the print at around X20 or the Sensor drags on the bed at X180. I found a similar problem with mine, and found the x axis arm was twisted aby tim_h - Ormerod
Right, been to the IT department and raided the "scrap PC corner", I've got a standard ATX PSU to try tonight, lots more there to scavenge bits out of. I also found a HP server PSU which will give upto 80A at 12V! I've found the info to get it running on it's own and have soldered the links in place. Obviously I won't try this one until I've proven there's no short circuits. Might also be an ideby tim_h - Ormerod
I had a look, but did not see any sign of scorch marks or smell of burning. That was my first thing I looked for when it stopped the second time. I'll ask the IT department if there are any spare PCs knocking around that I can borrow a PSU from. I see on the wiring loom from the PSU to power board there is a large multiway connector and a 4 pin connector with 2 black and 2 yellow wires. Whichby tim_h - Ormerod
Thanks, I'll try that when I get back home tonight. Does anyone know at what current the PSU will cut out at?by tim_h - Ormerod
Have just found my printer stalled, but this time with all fans stopped, even PSU fan. Just thought I was beginning to iron out problems and tweak the printing, but now it's dead... If I turn off the mains to the PSU and wait a minute it will come back on, but then cuts out again a few minutes later.by tim_h - Ormerod
David, that's a great summary of tips there. Well done for getting this far and helping the rest of us along the way.by tim_h - Ormerod
QuoteJamesR10 They look like your suppose to attach a connector block to them and then to the terminal (they may have female pins), I have just tried to peel back the HS but it broke the terminal in half, but never mind. I wondered about a male terminal plier crimped to the end stop, the just pushed onto that. But I'm wondering what part it's supposed to be. Anyway I ran out of terminals by usinby tim_h - Ormerod
dc, yes I've found same results using either web interface or usb, but really struggle to get bot to work together. I was having all prints stop after 1 or 2 layers, often in a similar position on the print. I am powering from ATX and plugged into USB also, but the Duet will happily run with no USB connected. Having persevered this evening I have finally managed to get some decent prints, onby tim_h - Ormerod
Thanks dc, I see that's how it's working, but I agree it's very confusing! Ian, I have updated to latest firmware and SD image, but am now struggling with very intermittent connection via web interface and stopping of prints in the first or second layer.by tim_h - Ormerod
Is anyone else having problems using the web interface to set the bed and extruder temps with the web interface? I can set the temp and control it properly with Pronterface, but when I try to set either extruder or bed temp with the web interface it seems to change the other setting, I can't seem to be able to set a different temp for extruder or bed... is this just me? Running Chrome on an Windby tim_h - Ormerod
I've had a problem installing the hotend thermistor. I found the PTFE heatshrink when shrunk was still too large to allow the thermistor to slide into the heater block. I have had to carefully cut the PTFE off from around the body of the thermistor in order to slide it in. Is it possible the PTFE heatshrink has changed spec in kits? Mine is RS kit number 472. With the heatshrink on the diameter wby tim_h - Ormerod
QuoteJamesR10 Ok, unfortunately they've cancelled my order due to lack of stock. Thanks, that's larger. But I'll work something out. That's a shame but I see they have got another item number for the RepRapPro 3d printer with green printed parts. RS stock number 795-2333, back order for despatch 20/12/2013. My order for the original red printer is still showing as due for dispatch 18th Decembby tim_h - Ormerod