Put a piece of cardboard under the heater to help insulate the bed. Also, while you're heating the bed, place a piece of cardboard on top so that it helps reflect some of that heat back down into the glass. I also have my thermistor mounted in the middle of the bed but mine is with kapton tape, just make sure it can't get yanked off by the bed movement.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
In RH you need to home them all first before you can move any of the axis.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
If you decide to use RH, I can help you get all the connection settings and dimensions correct. A good list of things to run through would be as follows: 1) Get the printer connected! I'd recommend using RH to connect and get you calibration prints started, that way if you need to adjust any settings, they'll be easily available. 2) If the printer came with firmware from the manufacturer, instby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
First, congrats on your first build! Second, it looks like you have Prusa i3 built. Looks nice! My Prusa has an Arduino and RAMPS1.4 board. You connect to your printer with a USB using a program(I use OctoPrint, but used RepetierHost to start off, and some people use Pronterface) apply all the connection settings and input the dimensions for your printer. There is a little more to it that thatby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotewidespreaddeadhead Another shift in my axes, I'm starting to lose it now. I'm going to try a different slicer(Cura, using Slic3r now), because I've only had one heart gears print off correctly, and four print with shifts. Try to use the z lift feature. Lifting it 0.2 or 0.15 mm on every retraction only marginally adds to the printing time. Its better thby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3 I have had my Folger Tech 2020 printer now for over a month.. would I buy again.. yes I would.. granted it was missing some screws and other small parts.. and They had to replace the Ramps board.. But after those issues were solved.. it was printing great from the first print... I know others did not have this experience.. but I can say 99% of any problems were on the hardware side ofby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Kind of looks like one of your axes isn't square to the other. Not familiar with this build, can you post some pics?by widespreaddeadhead - Smart_Rap
Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Quotemike3 Thanks rcjoseb Video helped much.. MadMike8 Thanks for the guide.. After a few days I finally got back to the printer.. first I used a regular endstop on the Z axis and it will trigger.. but when I installed the Proximity sensor using M119 it doesn't show triggered either way contacting metal or not. I have a 150k and a 100k resistor to lower the voltage.. and itby widespreaddeadhead - Smart_Rap
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Another shift in my axes, I'm starting to lose it now. I'm going to try a different slicer(Cura, using Slic3r now), because I've only had one heart gears print off correctly, and four print with shifts.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Another shift in my axes, I'm starting to lose it now.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRedneckGeek Anyone use OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi? I hooked mine up and it seemed to work ok for a few days then went nuts. I use it basically as a web interface to drop my gcode files into that are exported from Repetier/Cura. Same files work fine I drop on the SD card and print from the panel. When I drop them into Octoprint its like it prints too high off the bed and just sprays a biby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Buy a new RAMPS.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDanmst3k Thanks widespread. My X and extruder motors seem to be slightly hot. The X did get cooler when I tweaked the pot to make it quieter. I'm thinking maybe the extruder stepper is also vibrating, could explain the why I'm still getting ripples. I really need to throw a meter on these to check whats up. I haven't tried any large prints yet. Don't know if I can handel a mistake halfwaby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
My x motor always ran hot, but usually not long enough to cause problems. Well I was printing emmett's screwless heart gears and my axis shifted, so I finally decided to attach a 40mm fan to the x motor and a 60mm fan to the RAMPS board. Motor runs cool to the touch and reprinted the heart gears without issue. I wired the 12v 60mm fan to the power supply, and since I'm running OctoPrint on a Raspby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Great info!by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
They do take a while to email back. I had to get a replacement endstop and it took 2 emails but I got a replacement.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
What version of Windows are you running?by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah it probably does make a difference, I'm using a RAMPS+Arduino. Maybe someone who is or has used a melzi can help you out more. This might be a good place to learn more about your board,by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Here are my settings. I would recommend changing one of yours at a time to see if it helps.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Take a screenshot of your connection settings in RH, I use RH sometimes at home with my prusa.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
You have to home x, y, z when you start the application before you can manually move them in RH I believe.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Looking forward to your thoughts on the geeetech prusa. Also, your build looks awesome. Congrats!by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemuntahunta I've tried to contact hesine customer support but I can not get through to them. does anyone have any idea how I can get my computer to recognize the device? I have a feeling I may fix it with a sledgehammer soon Definitely don't do that Let's take it one step at a time: What program are you using to try to connect to the printer? RH? OctoPrint? Pronterface? If you can, taby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 I'm Printing PLA at 220c. heated bed 70c Sounds high for PLA, what brand are you using? I'd try running at 190c and adjust from there.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger I bought mine on ebay from folgertech because they give you free shipping there and they charge on their website. +1 I did the same thing.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehobbes anybody having any issues with the bed heating up? It seems the longer i use this printer, the slower it gets when it comes to heating the bed. Lately it takes forever to get up to 100C (for abs). I checked that i soldered the bed correctly (black wire touching the 2 soldering sections) and that everything else is wired in correctly. Not sure if it's my little temp gauge not working cby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 Thanks for all your replies, It's been jamming less over the past day or two so I can use the printer again. I actually lowered the hot end tube down farther away from the extruder, decreased my print temps a little bit, and started the fan before I began heating my extruder. Since I started doing this I haven't had problems but I'll also try wrapping the block in kapton tape. I waby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 Right now I'm using white PLA... My stock extruder jammed on Hatchbox White PLA, and I've since changed to an e3d lite 6 hotend and have had zero issues with clogs. A lot of people were mentioning this to me, but at the time I didn't really think it was necessary to spend more money on something. Eventually I ordered the e3d lite6, installed it and have been a huge fan ever since.by widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 Quotewidespreaddeadhead QuoteDnixon123 Over the past few days I've been having some issues with the extruder on my printer. It will staart making a skipping noise and the filament will get caught. I've fixed it several times by opening up the extruder and removing the mangled and squished piece of filament but it keeps happening. I think that the extruder is the issue but it couldby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDnixon123 Over the past few days I've been having some issues with the extruder on my printer. It will staart making a skipping noise and the filament will get caught. I've fixed it several times by opening up the extruder and removing the mangled and squished piece of filament but it keeps happening. I think that the extruder is the issue but it could also be the filament that I'm using. Itby widespreaddeadhead - Prusa i3 and variants