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What would be a good insulator in this case?
Should I tape the heater with pipe wrap insulation tape? Or can I glue a cork pad under the heater?
by
jjfawkes
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General
Hi,
I will use a silicone heater which will be attached to the bottom of aluminum plate (6mm thick). The whole plate will sit on adjustments screws, which will be connected to aluminum extrusions.
Is the heat going to affect the extrusions and warp them over time? Do I need to add another aluminum plate under the heater, so it is sandwiched between two plates?
Something like this:
Or do I hav
by
jjfawkes
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General
QuoteRoberts_Clif
The Power supply stores power in its filter capacitors, You will never get it to discharge that quickly.
If you want a instant shutoff the you should purchase a " Emergency Stop button about 30A should be OK!! ", Do A google search.
Another way is to control the 3D Printer with a raspberry Pi running OctoPrint, this will allow you to have a software controlled Emergency Stop b
by
jjfawkes
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General
I haven't tested the PSU with full load, I just started assembling everything and I noticed that this could be a possible issue in the future.
But if you're saying that the time will be reduced to 1/10 sec when it's actually in use, then it shouldn't be a problem.
I am connecting 4 stepper motors, and arduino + ramps + LCD. Heatbed is powered directly from the mains, so I suppose PSU has a lot
by
jjfawkes
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General
Hi,
I have a Surom 12v 30a power supply:
When I turn off electricity ( I have an AC Rocker switch wired to it ), it takes a couple of seconds for the PSU to power off.
How can I make it instantaneous?
It's as if the PSU stores the electricity somewhere inside, and once I cut off the AC power, it keeps on powering up my electronics from it's own battery(?). Why is it designed like this?
The sw
by
jjfawkes
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General
dc42 - thank you for the info, it is very useful !
Viktor - yes, I already have a 220V heating pad.
by
jjfawkes
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Safety & Best Practices
Digital_dentist, which are the most important properties I should be looking at in this case?
Thanks
by
jjfawkes
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General
Viktor, wouldn't it beat the whole purpose of having AC heatbed? If I underpower it drastically then it would heat at a similar speed as PCB or other types of DC regulated beds.
by
jjfawkes
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Safety & Best Practices
I did a brief comparison of physical properties, and this alloy's strength is lower than MIC6, so I am worried whether it can be used or not.
by
jjfawkes
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General
Hi,
I read most people are suggesting MIC 6 type ALU for heatbed, unfortunately, I cannot purchase it here in Europe, and shipping is too expensive.
I have found a local factory sells this type of ALU alloy: EN AW 5754 H22
Do you think it's a good alternative to MIC6, will it withstand prolonged heating without bending?
Would 6mm thickness be enough or should I go for 7mm ?
My plan is to attach
by
jjfawkes
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General
Hi,
I am building a new printer with Silicone heating pad 220V, 750W, 300x300 mm.
I want to install it properly with all the safety precautions, because I don't want to kill myself or burn the house down.
Which solid state relay and fuses should I be using? Are there some detailed guides/wikis/tutorials on how to install all of it?
What types of wires/cables must be used?
Thanks!
by
jjfawkes
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Safety & Best Practices
Ok, thanks everyone, I will try making my own bearings
by
jjfawkes
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General
How do you make your own bearings?
Carbon fiber tubes that I am referring to are made from 3K Pure Carbon Fiber
something like this:
by
jjfawkes
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General
Hi,
Do you know, if it's a good idea to use IGUS drylin bearings with carbon fiber tubes? I am not sure, if those polymer bearings are softer or harder than the CF tubes.
These are the ones I am talking about:
If they are harder than CF, then tubes will be damaged.. Is there another cheap alternative?
Igus Plain Bush JSM-1012-10 which are made for CF tubes, cost a fortune. I would gladly buy a
by
jjfawkes
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General