What DD said. Whenever you use more than one of anything, alignment becomes an issue. Add more, the more everything has to be aligned to prevent stiction, or worse, jams. Which is why you see a lot of 2 guides (rods) and one screw. That and it's cheaper. In theory you could make a 3d printer Z with a single linear guide and threaded rod. I'm using 2 ballscrews with independent drivers, independby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
bobbyd, Nice that you've decided on CoreXYU Might I suggest some 2060 posts for the corners, that way you can attach the linear guide to the center T-slot, similar to what I did on Hlidskjalf, and avoid all those brackets :p Or just point the corner 2020 in at 45 and work out trick corner brackets...by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
I'm using a RADDS/Due combination, with dc42's RepRapFirmware fot my CoreXYU printer. RADDS handles 6 steppers, and with a 3 stepper extension board, can do 9 total. Plus, the Arduino Due is 32 bit. About the only kinematic configurations RRF doesn't handle (yet) is a 6 DOF robot arm, and hexapod.(Stewart platform)by prot0typ1cal - General
Sounds like a cool motion control board (mocon). 1. What kind of servo amplifiers or stepper driver boards will be supported? 2. Do I get a hand wheel jog (manual pulse generator)? 3. What micro controllers are compatible? Arduino?by prot0typ1cal - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist The concept is pretty simple- instead of turning a massive screw, you fix the screw and drive the nut. This is usually used in high speed machines where turning a long screw fast results in "whipping". It's a lot easier to control a small, low mass nut than a long, flexible, heavy screw. Yea, I've seen fixed screws for laser cutting machines capable of 1600mm/sec feedsby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Well, the non-captive approach is unique for the Z, though I can see where it adds wiring complications, and additional weight to the bed. Just for reference, here's an image of a system where the screw doesn't rotate for those who are still confused...by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Ahh As each hollow motor has its own rod (anti-rotation), you can have ball joints to the bed. Allowing for some float during homing and auto-leveling...by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
You're doing great andornot. As a Engineer/designer/machinist, the whole review phase helps with direction. Sometime "this is cool" is the only reason you need when you're in charge. It's nice when it's you, as often outside this forum the opposite is true, with everyone swinging their dicks and trying to leave their thumb print if things go right.by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Ground sheets are usually within .003" per foot flatness, which is pretty damn good. One thing to look out for is they can be stress deformed if placed under heavy loads for extended periods, but the same can be said of MIC-6. My 1/2" CE had a .03" bow because I left 50 lbs of weights on it for a week while I was load testing my Z axis before I got my ATP-5. Yea, stupid me :pby prot0typ1cal - General
Garolite. There's plenty of types for consideration. G7 high temp, flame retardant has the highest thermal resistance, while G11 offers the highest thermal insulation. G10/FR4 you can get with ground precision flat surfaces, with comparable tolerances to MIC-6 or ATP-5. I'm using 1/2" CE to insulate under my heated bed. Though you will still get heat creep, that is, the garolite will eventually hby prot0typ1cal - General
From a force perspective, horizontal X bars are more stable for fast changes in the Y axis, provided your center of gravity for the carriage is on or close to the same plane as the bars. Vertical bars will impart wiggle, as the CG will typically always be over-hung. Offset bars (like the second pic above) will have different moments of inertia, depending on the Y direction. Though for a layout, cby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
If you're going for totally enclosed, might suggest moving motors outside the enclosure. The A and B steppers could be below, and have a shaft through the center hole of the extrusion to the top where you'd mount a pulley. One of the premises behind coreXY is no moving motors... Dunno about the hollow Z motors, sounds like something you want to try rather than being practical. Again, mountingby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
I like it I'd put the steppers in the front and let the belts cross (or stack?) in the back over the centered Z screw. Though keeping em in back helps tidy up wire routing. Looking at your pic, If all 3 Z screws are anchored, makes me wonder if you need the Z rods at all?by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
The TE717 works great ! Still had to supply the RADDS heatbed inputs with current for the ouputs to work, no big deal. Need to remachine the Garolite backer as well, it's totally not flat and wants to distort the aluminum print surface. On the plus side, it gets hot really fast. Less than a minute from 20 to 60 C, though bang bang is a little annoying to maintain temps with the PSU constantlyby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Ordered one of these, faster to get from inside the US. TE717 MKS controller moduleby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Quotehliebscher Hi, you can use external Controller max 280A geetings Thanks! Yea, my PSU can pour out 40 amps, so be good to uncork it on the heated bed rather than squeezing juice down to only 15 amps. Prolly heat up a skosh faster as well. For now, grabbed a pack of fuses, so try out the S parameter. Thanks o_lampeby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
LOL, After setting up the bed heater in the config.g Everything looked good, solid leads, correct temperature on PanelDue. Turned on the bed to 60C and promptly popped the 15 amp fuse !!! Is there a way to limit current (PID?) or is it a bang-bang thing? Perhaps should inch it up a few degrees C at a time?, dunno if there's a metric saying for this.by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
By comparison, the Due, and so the RADDS as well, has an "A" and "P" channel. So A0 through A11 can have a corresponding P value. This image provided by angelo is in the same orientation as the image above: To help understand all of this, GrayNomad published this guide years ago, however the dual bank is down instead of to the right like the previous two images: Question is, how does RRF knby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Been mapping the RADDS v1.5 board, cause there's a bunch of stuff I want to do for this project. Like a handle jog wheel and PWM for the 2x filament fans. Coming up with only a few pin conflicts: Pin 2 and 3 are used by both the thermisters T2 and T3, and Z axis Step and Direction. Pin 5 is used by PWM1 and AUX_ADC. AUX_ADC is required to use for a Z probe as it must be ADC enabled pin. I imby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Putting together my heated bed in preparation of the glossy black Printbite on its way from the UK. Bed is made of 1/4" ATP-5 aluminum, 300x300 RepRap Big Bed, 2mm of silicone, and 1/2" of cloth fiber garolite (CE). The garolite has been pocketted for the heater and silicone. Looking more like a 3d printer nowby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Putting together my heated bed in preparation of the glossy black Printbite on its way from the UK. Bed is made of 1/4" ATP-5 aluminum, 300x300 ReRrap Big Bed, 2mm of silicone, and 1/2" of cloth fiber garolite (CE). The garolite has been pocketted for the heater and silicone. Looking more like a 3d printer nowby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
DD is great for sure! However, dual Z screws are okay, only if they have independent drivers working in parallel. RRF now will adjust during Z probe for 2, 3 or even 4 screws. My CoreXYU uses dual Z ballscrews, each with their own home switch (soon to be hall-e), and applies a known offset. No worries, unless you're stuck in series.by prot0typ1cal - General
For that price range, the Xcarve is a decent router, though not intended for cutting aluminum. If you want metal cutting, look for ballscrews. The bigger the better (mechanical advantage), and either a 5 or 6 mm pitch. Look for an enclosure as well, aluminum loves flood coolant. Most likely will need 3 phase 220v to be of any use, otherwise you're looking at "engraving", not a router, and definiby prot0typ1cal - General
Finally got my axis to home properly. Still need to adjust the minima/maxima to drive XY zero center of the bed. And add Z offsets for the two heads. Ran out of M3 nuts to mount my bed, and have 60 odd crimps to patch in the extruders. One thing at a time :p Funny, RADDS did not like the W being an invisible axis for dual Z ballscrew homing with endstops. Here's my config and axis home code: ;by prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
It seems that a Zesty Nimble would do what you're looking for: Removes motor mass from carriage, while still being direct drive. Zesty Nimble, by Zesty Tech Sure not totally the same, it uses a flexible drive cable, rather than adding another belt loop :pby prot0typ1cal - General
Any chance for a coupon? I'd like to buy the 400x400 glossy clear grid, really only need 13-1/2 x 15" so will need to trim it down. Live in Southern California, so don't know if I need to pay the VAT... Cheers EDIT: All's good. Order# 4329 Went with the glossy black, looks badass. Left a note about the size, didn't get charged the VAT Looking forward to receivership.by prot0typ1cal - General
Thanks dc42, Yea an additional error for platform.cpp pointed me in the CoreNG direction. Will update. Still need to unlock another endstop for W (second Z). Looks like pin 39 is a PWM off the servo bank, prefer to use X max, and Z max for W. Trouble ahead. PanelDue stuff: Eventually would like to also add a pulse encoder wheel to drive the axis. There's empty pins that are used for the RADDSby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Figured, since I require 5 endstops, best to start delving into code again. Unfortunarely am hitting a wall during compiling. Filamentsensor.cpp is throwing an error that causes compiling to stop. Don't remember seeing any filament sensor stuff before? Anyways, here's the blurb: 'Building file: ../src/FilamentSensors/FilamentSensor.cpp' 'Invoking: Cross G++ Compiler' arm-none-eabi-g++ -D__SAM3Xby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Working out end stops. So far one end stop for X min (left head), Y max (gantry) and Z min (right ball screw). For RepRap with RADDS, the Y endstop is plugged into the Y min, even though it's really Y max. U is a lost cause ATM, ideally trip on the X max RADDS pins. RADDS has XYX min, and XYZ max pin outs available, yet all are not active in firmware. When U trips in the fine move, applies anby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines
Thanks Lars, Thinking and believing proved me wrong before, so started mucking about with the config. Systematically flipping S1's and S0's came up with some interesting combinations, none of which were 100%. Soooo... swapped the U and V cables. Slap me with a trout! XYUV All S1's, Semper Ubi Sub Ubi. XU400 x Y360 CoreXYUby prot0typ1cal - CoreXY Machines