@ijmok, thanks for the tip re kapton and soapy water. I just tried it and it was so easy to apply the tape. Great . I'll dry it over night and try it on the heatbed tomorrow. I'm still using kapton and pet tape for some difficult prints where I need strong adhesion to prevent lifting, but I always had trouble getting it onto the glass without air bubbles. @pazu, I tried it on an unheated bed butby Snaka - Reprappers
I'm interested in building a reprap with the x and y axes in an h-bot configuration where both axes would be driven by two steppers via a single belt. Is there any implementation of a reprap firmware that will alow the integration of the x and y motions such that both motors would turn in the same direction to move the x axis and in opposite directions to move the y axis?by Snaka - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I find the thinner a film of abs I apply, the better it works, so far. I cool the bed to about 60 C and the prints lift off the glass. Then I redistribute the film of abs with some acetone or a little more abs juice on a tissue in a small circular pattern. I found the paintbrush or a side to side movement left streaks. I tried applying the abs solution when the bed was at 100 C and that didn't woby Snaka - Reprappers
What is ABS slug? A thicker solution? In acetone? Are you using a pcb heatbed or alu clad resistors? I can't get mine above 100 C but my heatbed is a bit of a heatsink. And I probably need more insulation under it.by Snaka - Reprappers
I might try my pcb heatbed at a higher voltage. I think ramps 1.4 provides for that. But so far my abs is sticking well at 100 C. When I first tried abs juice I used a paintbrush and it was too thick and uneven. A small amount on a tissue quickly wiped over the glass leaves a thin even film and the finish on the bottom of the part is better than I got with kapton. I don't have to re-coat the glaby Snaka - Reprappers
Ok. I guess there must be something wrong with the way I was using kapton, or with the kapton itself. But other people seem to have the same problem. I set the nozzle so a single sheet of paper slides under it, with skeinforge Bottom 'Additional Height over Layer Thickness' at 0.5. I'm printing 0.4mm layers at a 'Width over Thickness ratio' of 1.8. My heatbed will only go up to 100 C. If you prby Snaka - Reprappers
Yes, I tried the freezer and it was easier to get the parts removed but I still need to use a hammer. There's a risk of breaing the glass and damaging the parts. The abs juice is much quicker and easier. I just cool the bed a bit and I can remove the parts by hand. I don't need to remove the glass from the printer and it's ready to print again in a couple of minutes.by Snaka - Reprappers
Hello Thanks for all the help and advice in this forum and from the reprap community in general. I've just finished building my repstrap mendel and I've been printing ABS on a heated glass bed with kapton tape @ 100 C. The parts stick too well and I need a hammer and chisel to remove them which ruins the kapton. I also find the kapton hard to apply to the glass without trapping air bubbles.by Snaka - Reprappers