What speeds are you seeing on these, and what reliability once you get them up & running? Thanks,by SnapFracturePop - Delta Machines
If the problem was that the top layers were sagging or not bridging over the infill properly, increasing the infill density could help. In this case, though, that wasn't the issue. Are your gaps consistent all the way around the part, or just on two sides per layer? If it's on two sides, you might have a belt tension issue. I got a couple belt tension springs off eBay that really helped.by SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
Nope, no motors, electronics, or hot end. Hence the price tag. Still, $130 for a Printrboard, $17 x5 for Sparkfun steppers, $90 for a hot end, $30 for a heated build platform, and a few odds & ends, and you're back up to $550. You're probably better off buying a full kit. I had some parts from a previous 3d printing project involving a Shapeoko CNC router modded to print, so it made sense forby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
As far as running out of plastic, if you don't notice that you're low or out until it's gone, you're probably better off restarting the print. If you are there watching & your extruder is well aligned, you can start a new spool at the end of the old. Just press the start of the new filament against the end of the old. Provided they have the same melting characteristics, you should be fine. Iby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
I bought mine off eBay from "tdhalton" - I had a bit of trouble with the threads on the rods where they had been cut & the lack of instructions for the non-standard parts, but all in all a good geal ($200 for all the printed parts, rods, and hardware). Now that it's assembled I'm happy with it, but there are probably better kits out there for beginners. If you can find a local 3d printer grby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
OK, I fixed it completely by accident. I turned on the ceiling fan. That was enough airflow against the cold end of the hot end to make a drastic difference. I'll be mounting a 40mm fan on it ASAP. In the mean time, I've printed half a dozen items without issue since, so I'm declaring it a success. Thanks for all the suggestions, and I take back half the nasty things I've said about the SeeMeCNCby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
I tried just about every combination of settings I could think of tonight - nothing worked. Adjusting tension, temperatures, bowden length... nothing. Then I found something surprising (to me). I shot the bed with an IR thermometer & came back with a range of temperatures from 105-111 (it was set to 110). Then I shot the hot end set to 230 & got ~135c. Hmmm.... I think the thermistor is sby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
I tried the suggestions, no luck. In fact, not change at all. I couldn't tell for sure, but it looked like the filament was slipping a bit. I took apart the extruder and pushed the filament as hard as I could. I got ~100mm/minute, a bit slower than I expected. I took apart the hot end & it seems the short PTFE tube segment had shrunk & was really gripping the filament. I plan to give theby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
Looks like mine when I don't have the temperatures right. Unfortunately that's hard to diagnose without a decent amount of information. I'm guessing you're using ABS? The heated bed may not be hot enough, the bed surface may be dirty or the wrong material, the printhead moving too fast, Z-axis not calibrated properly... the list is fairly large. Again assuming ABS, if you're confident your prinby SnapFracturePop - Reprappers
My apologies if this has been covered elsewhere, but I'm having a heck of a time finding an answer. Every model I make has this same problem - the solid layers aren't. I've tried slowing down, re-measuring that 100mm extruded moves the filament 100mm... nothing. What am I doing wrong? I've got a Prusa Mendel with a Steve's Bowden Extruder, Slic3r, 0.35mm nozle and 1.75mm filament (measured at 1.by SnapFracturePop - Reprappers