Overall I'm really pleased with the Pico. I wish the rest of my printer was up to that level of quality.by mk3a - Reprappers
Looks like some nasty long command lines to compile and upload...sigh...I was hoping someone else had worked it all out already.by mk3a - Reprappers
Right now I am switching to a motor I have lying around that has built in planetary gears. I don't like the extruder design for it though (It's the one that came with my printer.) Eventually, I want to redo the airtripper design to fit the bolt pattern on that motor.by mk3a - Reprappers
Previously I had my printer hooked to a desktop machine, but now I have it on a raspberry pi (headless) without X installed. It has been working using Octoprint, until today I needed to update the Marlin firmware and realized I'd have to disconnect everything and drag it upstairs to my desktop to update from the Arduino IDE. I'd rather not do that. What is a workable solution that would preferrabby mk3a - Reprappers
I've run into an issue lately where my Pico hotend jams after about 20-30 minutes of printing PLA. I can verify that it is jammed as I can not move the filament in either direction even manually. An interesting thing is that after letting the hotend cool off for an hour or so, the jam clears and I can print again. To me this indicates insufficient active cooling, but I already have a small fan bby mk3a - Reprappers
I have a similar setup and maybe my experience will help. I have a Rostock Mini with a bowden extruder and I am also using the airtripper design. I originally thought the filament was slipping, but it turned out the motor was kicking backwards because it couldn't generate enough torque to move the filament. I'm switching to a planetary gear design as it is more reliable, especially when printingby mk3a - Reprappers
Haha, I turned up the current and a lot of the problem went away. I did away with the multimeter and just adjusted it until the print got better. :pby mk3a - Reprappers
I am using Slic3r, but not using retraction and that box is not checked. I believe my extruder's motor just doesn't have the torque needed and is slipping backward when it tries to extrude. I have another motor which has a planetary gear assembly which I beleive would give it more torque, but it doesn't fit my extruder parts. I'd have to design and print new parts to fit it. I may do that, but fby mk3a - Reprappers
QuotePaul Wanamaker [*] Put marks on the filament with a pen, and across the end of the drive gear. Then watch both while its making that grinding noise to confirm it's the filament slipping. I finally got around to trying this...It's the gear/motor moving backwards when it makes the noise. Why does this happen?by mk3a - Reprappers
Quotedougal1957 What Hot end are you using everything I read on Airtrippers page suggests that with your setup it should be fine and if not to start looking towards the Hot End. HTH Doug Pico from B3 Innovations - I really like it. The only way I can imagine it being the problem would be if it requires more force than most to push the filament through, perhaps because it truly is all-metal:by mk3a - Reprappers
Quotedougal1957 You say you have an Airtripper what motor is on that and which drive gear this is what I believe is critical in getting this to work. see Airtrippers V3 Extruder Sounds like you need high torque motors for these to work effectively. I will watch this thread carefully to see how you get on as I am considering Airtripper's for my in progress 4 head printer. Doug The motor is:by mk3a - Reprappers
It's deceptive and I would want a refund. If the picture doesn't match the item, it is just as bad as incorrect text.by mk3a - Reprappers
I've never been able to print faster than ~20mm/s. I have calibrated my extruder steps in the Marlin firmware. My slicer settings have an extrusion multipler of 1. I don't see how it could be clogged. It will print; it just won't print quickly. I suspect a problem with the bowden extruder, not the hot end. Maybe I will disassemble the hot end just to have a look and make sure.by mk3a - Reprappers
Feeding it by hand works fine. I will try to upload a video when I can.by mk3a - Reprappers
Paul, Thanks for the advice. Here's what I know: 1. Check the extruder drive gear, does it have filament swarf stuck in the teeth? Possibly some. It's hard to tell. 2. "Grinding" sound does not sound like the driver is doing a thermal reset. If it was you could pull on the filament lightly when that happened and it would pull out. Filament doesn't move when I pull during thby mk3a - Reprappers
sheck626, Pretty sure that isn't the case because I can print ABS at that same temp. I'm also certain I have the correct thermistor table selected. Edit: I was able to print at 195C after tightening the idler on my airtripper bowden extruder. Things are looking up.by mk3a - Reprappers
I wish I knew how to get those kinds of speeds. This is a delta printer, so it should be capable, right? I'm using an airtripper bowden extruder and a Pico all-metal hotend. I'm already printing very hot, so maybe the issue is with the bowden extruder. I was able to print at a lower temperature after tightening the idler on my extruder. It helped with some of the PLA warping issues I was havinby mk3a - Reprappers
nechaus, This ties into another post I have about printing speed: I don't really have a way to double check the temperature. I bought an infrared thermometer, but I've found it to be unreliable. But this is what I do know: I print ABS at 250C and 20mm/s and it prints wonderfully, except for some warping due to not having a heated bed. I can print PLA just fine at anywhere from 220C to 250C aby mk3a - Reprappers
Interesting I see a mention of warping being caused by printing too fast and also a mention of it being caused by printing too slow...I'm confused.by mk3a - Reprappers
I'm trying to increase my printing speed. Right now I'm printing at about 20mm/s for most things, with first layer and outer perimeters at 50% of that. Trying to increase even a small amount leads to my extruder slipping and making grinding noises on my filament while the print has gaps like this: Even at 20mm/s I see bands of light and dark like in the image above, although I don't hear theby mk3a - Reprappers
Ok, from the sound of it, I'd be better off designing a bed that is easier to adjust, than using autoleveling.by mk3a - Reprappers
My x,y,and z axis motors whine a bit when printing and I was wondering just how much is normal? Edit: I've read about people adjusting the voltage on their steppers, but not sure if I should mess with it, since the printer moves OK.by mk3a - Reprappers
I tried tape breifly, but hated it because it tended to rip off and stick to my prints. It was difficult to remove from them, so I decided to use something else. This is likely my problem ---> "Printing too fast, too hot, or insufficient cooling air will cause PLA to curl on overhangs and corners." I don't think it is speed, but I do not actively cool my prints and I print higher than is prby mk3a - Reprappers
I have a weird issue with PLA warping. I only recently started working with PLA because I don't have a heated bed yet and ABS was warping on me. I was hesitant to try PLA because I have an all-metal hotend and had heard stories of PLA jamming, but thankfully it has worked beautifully with zero jams so far. I'm printing onto a sanded aluminum plate using purple Elmer's glue stick (PLA would notby mk3a - Reprappers
Ok, having gotten fed up with having to reset the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS in Marlin everytime I do something with my print bed and struggling to level it afterward, I've decided to try autoleveling. I know Marlin firmware supports it, but I'm not entirely sure how to go about setting it up on my printer. I have a small delta printer, so I want to keep the effector end light and would prefer a simple sby mk3a - Reprappers
Paul, Awesome printer. That's a lot like I was imagining I'd like to build. Is there any way I could get specifics on your build? Thanks Edit: For a metal bed, is it better to go with a highly polished surface, or not?by mk3a - Reprappers
I can't speak for the E3D, but I am using an all metal hotend called the Pico from B3 Innovations. I haven't tried it with PLA yet, but for ABS it's flawless.by mk3a - Reprappers
I'm looking to add a heated bed to my delta printer and I've already read the wiki article on them at reprap.org. I also see lots of red heating elements on Amazon like this one: But the descriptions are irritatingly vague, leaving me with lots of questions: How big is it? What temperatures can it handle? How do I mount it? So, does anyone know a reliable source for heated bed parts that canby mk3a - Reprappers