Both sides seem to get equally hot but you will need to put insulation under it (between the sled and heat bed). I find that the side without the LEDs is flatter and easier to set a Glass plate on.by louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekrwynn Thanks, but kind of hard to use that without a working printer to print it lol. I like the idea though. Might be able to rig something up to make what I have work like that in the meantime. Not really that big of a problem. I had an older style end stop mount and couldn't get that mounted so I just held the end stop switch in place till the print started so that the printer could homby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTheLost I understand all of that.. however.. 1) The path of the X carriage is defined by the two parallel 8mm rods... A straight line. 2) The belt is a fixed size. If you move the belt by hand 20mm.. the X carriage will ride horizontally along the fixed rods 20mm. Having the left 'pivot point' (idler pulley) higher then the attachment point on the X carriage can affect speed and theby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Just curious but does anyone know the size or model of the v-groove bearing in the extruder? I replaced the extruder with MindRealms but it looks like my bearing is coming apart (the seal was off) so I carefully put it back together and closed it into the extruder and never looked for a model number or size and now I'm afraid that if I open it up again I'll lose some of the ball bearings out ofby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTheLost QuoteZavashier QuoteTheLost Wait.. what? Are you talking about the X & Y idler pulleys? (the only 'printed pulleys' included in the kit).. cuz.. the size of the idler pulley has no affect on speed/travel distance of the X or Y carriage. Of course it affects if the system is not parallel. As far the pulleys form a triangle with the bet attachment, the travel is not equal to theby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier Read this. When you adjust the steps per mn values, you introduce more problematic errors. Why ? Because what you did to adjust your values, ils to print a part, a 20x20mm cube for example, and you adjust your steps per millimeter to get a perfect 20x20mm cube, right ? But if you print a 10x10mm our a 100x100mm cube, it won't be right this time, because your adjustment cannot workby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
right, so instead of changing the number to fit the parts that you have, you changed the parts to fit the numbers from the formula, which seems harder to me, but whatever.by louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier I printed 1.5% larger on the Y axis and 0,5% on the X axis. No matter for small parts, but not on large ones. Also small holes was allways a bit oval. Appreciate my settings allow me to print close to perfection 0.3mm thin walls, so it can't be extruder's calibration. When I changed for proper dimension idler pulleys, the values cames down to a 0.3% on each axis. I guess it's nowby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Pins 2 and 3 should be wired togetherby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead New problem, i sliced a calibration cube and starting printing it, however it went to the max points and just extruded in the same spot, while RH showed the model being printed. The extruder just pushed the plastic onto the same spot. Any ideas? I've never been able to get rh to work. Always the same results as you're experiencing but I get good results from pronterfaceby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebengele Quotelouspinuso Quotebengele Not sure if this is confusing people or not but I took me a bit to figure it out. What I realized is that in Pronterface you are not giving it a command to move left/right, forward/backward, and up/down you are telling it to move +steps or -steps. That means once you have homed your printer (moving the bed all of the way forward and the head all of the wby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebengele Not sure if this is confusing people or not but I took me a bit to figure it out. What I realized is that in Pronterface you are not giving it a command to move left/right, forward/backward, and up/down you are telling it to move +steps or -steps. That means once you have homed your printer (moving the bed all of the way forward and the head all of the way to the right) the coordinaby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebengele Quotebengele Hoping that someone who is better at electronics can verify what I am going to do. I am trying to follow Tom's Guide on setting up auto bed leveling 3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation! I am going to just use the open terminals on the power supply to get 12v input and ground. It looks to me like the pin closest to the edge of thby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNewtoprinting Can someone who got their full graphic lcd smart controller send me their whole marlin file. Ive been trying to get it working for a while now but all I get is an error message when sending it to arduino. Are you getting the error message about a missing library? When using that display u need an additional library downloaded and in your marlin directoryby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNlh205 Actually I believed the problem is caused by heat travelling through the threaded barrel and actually melting the pla in the threaded barrel. Also my extruder and x axis motors get very hot while the others are nice and cool. A couple of suggestions. Did you make sure the abs was completely clear of the nozzle? I would imagine that the higher temperature needed by the abs could cby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHairLikeFrodo I tried flashing a new marlin firmware and It doesn't move still. I tried the home command and still nothing. Do you have the jumpers installed?by louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
You have to home the motors first. I ran into that same problem. When you hit home (one motor at a time) make sure the motor is moving in the right direction to get to an end stop. If not pull the plug quick and then remove all power (USB included) and invert your plugs for the motor.by louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotevonnieda Hi all, I put together a GitHub Wiki with many of the commonly referenced resources from this thread. I often find myself trying to find something in this thread and it's not much fun to dig through 29 pages to get it The Wiki is publicly editable, so if you'd like to please feel free to add on and improve it! Jason Oh thank you. I'll try to find all my referenced websites anby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecliferton1 Ok been at it tonight. I tried the numbers you had posted (79.84, 80,3836.93,101) as a start and the cube was x=19.84mm,y=19.79mm, z 19.62mm. so im still a little off there. How should I go about correcting this? trying to test print some stuff. im having trouble with the part coming off during print. I was using painters tape. now I wiped it with alchaol and have the bed at 80*cby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecliferton1 getting better i guess lol. something is up with my z. x and y seem to have correct scale but z is stretched. i attached a pic of a part we make at work and a slightly scaled down version i just printed. I have not adjusted my stepper voltage no idea if thats going to have anything to do with it or should i be looking at marlin settings. the 20mm cube i printed was 19.98mmx19.97mmby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, I did find this link for helping you understand the settings in Slic3r It is very helpfulby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemickey QuoteKeyserSoze3d Quotemickey OK set the vref and all seems ok but I have a few problems, It seems that my heated bed cant really reach to 110c for ABS printing. I replaced the cable to more thick one(and it helped a bit now I can reach 90c but still take an hour). I check the solder points and they seem fine also I have the folder kit PSU from folger. is there a chance that the bed tby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemickey OK set the vref and all seems ok but I have a few problems, It seems that my heated bed cant really reach to 110c for ABS printing. I replaced the cable to more thick one(and it helped a bit now I can reach 90c but still take an hour). I check the solder points and they seem fine also I have the folder kit PSU from folger. is there a chance that the bed temp reading are far from the tby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemickey Quotewaltermixx no software option with the RAMPS board, you will need a volt meter. + cable to the actual metal of the tiny adjustable pot, and - to ground. please use the voltages posted earlier in the thread, the ones i posted from the folks at folgertech as a good starting point smiling smiley Folger guys just publish a complete PDF for the build process. to late for me but at thby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterich1812 QuoteWaltermixx Oddly enough that is what I posted originally. Then thought no, I better not write that so as not to offend you, as it was covered a few times. He he. So I changed my post to reflect info on the atx power supply. I should have left it as is. I wonder if anyone saw it before I edited it. Either way glad you figured it out. :0) HAHAHA You should have posted iby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx Thank you's guys...(as i like to say)... I know you mentioned somewhere earlier in this past that you are in Canada(I think) but that is a distinctly NY phrase that I grew up saying. Lol. Thanks to everyone who has continued this thread. I still check in from time to time and try to reply to some posts when in front of my PC.by louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterich1812 Hi, I almost finish building Folger i3, I have a few questions. 1.) When setting the home position, I am not sure how far the extruder should be from the heated bed, should it be 1mm or more? 2.) During testing, on all X, Y and Z, when they touch the endstops, they all bounce back for about 2-3mm then they will return to where they are suppose to stop, then they stop. Is this norby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethat1guy QuoteWaltermixx Extruded pics . Walter, first of all thank you and everyone else who's contributed to this thread, it has been tremendously helpful! I have a question on the dissassembled extruder pics above. Is that a couple of washers in it, or a bearing (maybe 623zz)? I ask because I don't have anything in mine and am not getting reliable fillament feeds - not surprising sinceby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
I really don't think the extra mass of the aluminum bed will be different than that of the wood bed you are using now.by louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemikez104 Anyone besides me having issues with the acrylic bed warping? Mine is so badly warped that I can't even level it. That's were 90% of my printing issues have been coming from. I'm going to cut one from some 1/8" birch plywood tomorrow and use the old one as a drill guide. Friggin acrylic is more problems than it's worth. Do you have any insulation between the heated bed and theby louspinuso - Prusa i3 and variants