Quoteawmyhr did not, however, change anything about the print bed and am using the same PLA filament, yet I no longer have any bed adhesion at all. Has anyone else encountered bed adhesion issues after upgrading to the E3D? I can't think of anything else which would be contributing to this issue. Everything else appears to be working great after the upgrades, but with this inability to actuallyby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey everybody. It's been a while since I've posted. I've done some upgrades recently, so I thought I'd share. I finally did the lead screw upgrade along with a Toranado extruder and E3D V6 hot end. I'm still doing some calibration runs & test prints, but the printer's much quieter thanks to the lead screws and the print quality seems to be better with much more consistent filament flow. Herby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotetherippaIf you guys are looking to upgrade your bearings your might want to think about Misumi LMU-N8. They are the "real" version of the cheap Chinese LM8UU's, and in my experience (and other folks about 100 pages back on this thread), are better than the igus Drylin bearings. Only a buck or two more expensive. +1 for Misumi bearings. I have them on mine. Except for the crappy z axis thrby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D The only way I can think of that the tube would go down like that is if the nozzle had been replaced with (or maybe shipped with?)... To assemble the hot end, screw the nozzle into the heat block almost all the way, leaving about 1 mm of thread exposed. Then screw the throat down tight against it. Put it all together, and heat it up, and then tighten the nozzle on up once it is hotby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander I have no firsthand knowledge but ran across this stuff doing research for my future setup. For filaments requiring higher temps you need to go with barrels without liners. Those barrels need to be polished and then seasoned, with oil, like a cast iron skillet. Before I start using PETG I'll have a barrel, polished and seasoned, like the following: I ordered a replacement from Fby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 [Don't fight it, liner could be damaged, it probably got weak with the high temp, you can get a 5 pack on prime for pretty cheap. I found that these cheap parts are not worth fighting and to keep spares on hand. I'll get a replacement - thanks!by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Alright, can somebody give me some jam advice? I pulled apart my hot end to fix a jam/clog. The nozzle itself is clear, but the liner on the hot side of the heat break is sticking out quite a bit. Has anyone seen this before? I've been printing mostly PETG at 245C for the last couple months. Did that kill the stock hot end? Thanks for the help! Quotetjnamtiw For 6 months, I've been strictlyby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA Has anyone else had issues with the stock Folger extruder drive gear becoming worn? I've had my printer for about 2+ months and have run maybe 21/2 spools through. 1 spool PLA, 1 spool PETG and a bit of ABS. In the last week or so I've noticed a lot of clicking from the extruder and the prints are becoming pretty bad. Examining the gear shows there is hardly any "tooth" left. They arby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteGrouchoDuke Jeeeeesus Christ that thing looks like an over-engineered piece of hardware. With that said, I feel like I haven't done any upgrades in two months so I may print one. But I expect something that complicated to have problems. I just ordered some replacement parts for my stock extruder (eBay metal thing for $12), but I might mess with this too. Looks like a fun cby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Is anyone running a Toranado extruder on their Folger Tech? I got my stock extruder working again, but I'm looking for what's great out there. This looks promising:by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma wear on the extruder is really hard to see, I really questioned if it was the problem or not. It was acting like a clogged nozzle, but not chewing up the filament so I figured it had to be the tension - or lack thereof. I went through severe under extruding this weekend. My printer is about the same age as yours. Grrrr. Mine looked to be caused by a worn drive gear and bad alignmeby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBoffster I've printed this one as it provides cooling from both sides... QuotejhitesmaI'm currently using this fan: QuoteelkayemIf you ever decide to upgrade to an E3D hotend, this fan works well: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:510957 Thanks for all the fan recommendations! Adding that to the to do list... On a different topic, I finally checked how much z movement I have. 138mm giveby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Get a print fan on that. It'll make all the difference for PLA. I've been meaning to add a fan for similar issues. What's the best print fan for the stock FT setup?by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
TPU anyone? Does anyone have a favorite TPU (or TPU-like flexible filament) that prints well on a stock FT Mk9 hot end? I'd like to print some quadcopter parts (like camera mounts) & want something that's flexible and won't easily break. Ninjaflex seems to be popular, but it's pretty pricy. Is there anything else that works great?by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe With all the new kid's chatter about slicing software I thought I'd through S3D in the mix (I know it's expensive, but it's well worth the price of admission :-)...here is a great example of just how well the support function works in S3D. +1 for Simplify3d. The supports alone are incredible. QuoteGrouchoDukeM280 P0 S160 Quotetjnamtiw Yep, that's it! Thanks! I'll add that to myby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw For some reason, even though the BLTOUCH pulls almost no current, it was resetting my firmware. I ended up with an external supply. The MAIN problem for it going into alarm condition though was that you have to have the pin in the down position when you energize it to prevent the alarm. In the stand alone configuration, you have no way to send the reset code except if you put itby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGrouchoDuke EXCEPT... My BLTouch started doing random reboots of itself again. It also calculated the bed at the wrong height after several G28/G29 attempts. So, I'm back to being frustrated. The regulator I used was very cheap. I may try wiring up my Anker USB charger instead. We'll see. Alright, my BLTouch & printer are now back in the working category. The BLTouch was having all kindby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteGrouchoDuke My BLTouch is finally working. Short story is that I had to power it with something other than the RAMPS board's Vcc pin. So, I wired up a 5V/3A regulator and powered it from the main power supply. This comes straight from the arduino.cc website >> ''Supplying voltage via the 5V or 3.3V pins bypasses the regulator, and can damage your board. We don't adviseby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 QuoteGrouchoDuke My BLTouch is finally working. If you have time you should put detailed instructions on the wiki My prints are still mirrored in X. I'd rather not share config steps until I figure that out. I guess adding some info on porky entail BLTouch powering issues wouldn't hurt though.by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
My BLTouch is finally working. Short story is that I had to power it with something other than the RAMPS board's Vcc pin. I've been chasing my tail on this for a while. At first, I didn't know that the RAMPS board requires a jumper between the Vcc & 5V pins to provide power to the positive voltage servo pins (near the reset button by the servo connectors). After figuring that out I still cby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw You mentioned G28, which means you are hooked up to a laptop. Have you tried it without a laptop? Turn it off and back on. What is the BLTOUCH doing? It looks like it does a normal startup cycle. It does three up/down cycles on the pin. I think the startup has always been normal (after I added the Vcc/5v jumper to my RAMPS, that is).by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Thanks! Is it the same guy selling it on ebay? Yeah, it's the same guy.by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
It seems like this is the BLTouch channel lately. I put the VCC/5V jumper on my RAMPS and the BLTouch is now working...mostly. For some reason, it doesn't always lower the pin when I start a G28. If I manually hit the individual axis home buttons in Repetier Host then move the probe toward the middle of the bed, the probe is sometimes up and sometimes down. When it's up, it doesn't seem to reby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3DEdit: GrouchoDude beat me to this point. You can see a photo of the jumper in his post above. *high five* Thanks for posting the photo. Hopefully that's all my problem was. (Well, my problem with BLTouch anyway.)by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA I originally had a power problem similar to what's just been mentioned. I found having the BLTouch connected to the servo pins caused really funky things... I'm glad to hear you got it working. I'll power mine another way and see how that goes. QuoteBert3d I've not had any problems running the BLTouch from the servo pins, nor did I have a problem running the mini servo I had before.by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Quotetjnamtiw Still working to get the BLTouch to work with my 2020 and RC3. I tried the settings on the Wikia as well as those on Bert's git page. My Z axis goes up instead of down, which it never did before. Strange. The biggest head scratcher is that with the laptop hooked up via USB, the BLTouch goes through it's self test and then solid red waiting for a probe. If I unhooby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Anybody elses printer come with L brackets that had huge holes? And the Bolts nearly fall through? Nice way to start off the build -_- They keep falling out on me.. I might need some washers for it. The L brackets are differen't than in the picture.. Yeah, I put M4 washers on mine then pushed them to the end of the hole. Seems to work fine...messy, but fine.by GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
Baby steps...I finished my build and did a few prints. The attached image is my first print, a 10mm cube in ABS. It's messy, but I'll take it for a first print. After some driver voltage adjusting, the printer's quiet and happily spits out little plastic parts. So far, my printer is a stock 2020 except for Misumi bearings, x endstop on the left, and a borosilicate glass bed with BuildTak. Buildby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
I just finished my build (minus wire tidying) and did a smoke test. It didn't go so well. One of the drivers died just after I plugged the printer in for the first time. Just as a reminder to everyone that you should be careful with things, here's the video: Here's the driver afterwards: When I was building the printer, I checked to make sure there was solder on all the pins, but I didn't rby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotesonnyloweAs soon as I have time (and they are finalized them) I'll be posting the X-Y upgrades on Thingi, along with a few other designs. I think adding current mods-configurations to our signature is a great idea, and it would help people find there way much easier. As far as S3D profiles, I change mine on the fly depending on what I'm printing...I don't save different profiles, I only hby GrouchoDuke - Prusa i3 and variants