jhitesma, great info here. You have a very nice modded i3. I will get there. 8) I will think about these changes. It will be very helpful in a near future. By now i prefer to start with a FW more close to the default Folger Prusa i3 (only with that 2004 LCD and bed autolevel). Thank you for help. It will be useful in a very near future i'm sure. {}s CreativeBRby CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma I also updated to Marlin RC6 (here's my branch for it on Github: I actually had to make a few more minor changes to the configuration.h after that, I'll try to remember to push them up at lunch. And as with my other setups this is with leadscrews and inductive sensor using my latest mount: on this extruder: ) LCD seems to work much nicer in RC6 and I like the new option to ruby CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril It's pretty straightforward to use the latest Marlin release as there is only a few changes to do in configuration.h. Cyril, would you mind in give me a direction of which changes have to be done? Is there a post here talking about it? Thank you CreativeBRby CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma That said...the latest rep-server has some nice updates - it now updates the message on the LCD and cycles through ETE/ETA/Layers and I think one other display. There's a minor bug where ETA is shows in UTC instead of local time but I can live with that. I also updated to Marlin RC6 (here's my branch for it on Github: I actually had to make a few more minor changes to the confby CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
I think i will try the LEFT endstop position if try therippa's FW. It's more simple for a first time user. 8) Do you know the FW in the BETA folder from FolgerTech? It is supposed to have LCD and bed autolevel support too.by CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
The wiki page says: "Please note that you will need to make some changes to your printer to get this working correctly/properly (unless you moved your X-endstop to the left side): - Move your X-endstop connection on your RAMPS board one set of pins over, to position 6 - In your host software, change X-endstop setting to MAX" So it seems that the X endstop to the left side is enough...by CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteCreativeBR Is it a good idea to use Rippa's Marlin in a first time build (moving X-endstop plug to position 6 and changing the X-Endstop settings MAX)? Let me explain: - I have that vanilla 2004 LCD and an inductive sensor to be installed in a near future (not in the first days or week i suppose) so i'm in doubt if i should flash a default Marlin and only when decide to install tby CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants
Is it a good idea to use Rippa's Marlin in a first time build (moving X-endstop plug to position 6 and changing the X-Endstop settings MAX)? Let me explain: - I have that vanilla 2004 LCD and an inductive sensor to be installed in a near future (not in the first days or week i suppose) so i'm in doubt if i should flash a default Marlin and only when decide to install the sensor update the FW to Rby CreativeBR - Prusa i3 and variants