Hi. Touch wood, mines been ok since replacing the nozzle and motor, and increasing the motor current. I also added one of these to lubricate the filament, like DuexVis suggested : I'm also making sure the filament isn't jamming on the spool. I need to make a proper filament feed at some point, rather than unravelling it manually.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
@Steve. I thought the same thing, but didn't think about changing the route completely. I might take a look at this. When it stops extruding it just grinds the filament. @DADIY. What temperature are you printing PLA at? I know it's filament dependent, but wondered how much higher you go. I do my first layer at 210, then drop to 195. Next time it jams I'll have to remember to check the temby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
OK, so, the story so far... New motor, 1703HS168A, running at 1200mA. Extrusion acceleration at 1000 mm/s2. Retraction speed in slic3r 10 mm/s, length 3.4mm. New nozzle. Tensioner looser than I've had it before though. Spent the time trying to make sure the bowden tube to nozzle join was a good as I could get it. Managed to get to 80% on this print, which is better than before, but stillby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Thanks. I've ordered a new motor, and will try again with increased current and reduced acceleration. Fingers crossed!by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
According to this page, my stepper motors, JK42HS34-1334AC, are only good for 22 Ncm, half the recommendation on that page. Do you think it's worth upgrading to 1703HS168A with twice the torque?by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
@cparsons. Thanks, I'll check that, too. I think it's OK, but I'll double check. I'm having to have high tension otherwise I can hear it grinding on the filament. When I rebuilt with the new nozzle I did spend some time making sure the bowden tube was screwed fully in, running a bit of filament through by hand checking for resistance. There was a bit of a change when getting to the nozzle, bby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
@janpenguin. Thanks. I'm running the stock Fisher-1. My extruder current is already at 1000, as it came; I was going to try upping that to 1200. Acceleration is 4000, I'll try dropping that. M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1000 ; Set motor currents (mA) M201 X4000 Y4000 Z4000 E4000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2) What motor did you replace it with? Or can you point me in the direction ofby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Any ideas? I do have a spare nozzle so I can try that, and I saw some reference to increasing the current on the extruder motor, so I can try that. I've checked the diameter of the filament, and that's still within tolerance (~1.73mm), and I've printed probably 2/3 of a 1kg roll with only occasional failed prints due to extrusion failures; it's just now started failing on every single print. Iby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
I had a print fail part way through last night, and since then I can't get a single print to complete without stopping extruding. I've dismantled the hot end, the nozzle and PTFE are clean. On the robot it stops each time just when it starts the body. Tried printing the whole thing at 210 if that made a difference, but it didn't. I'm concerned about putting too much load on the stepper motor,by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Hi. How tight do you run your idler lever tension? I find that I have to run it really tight, otherwise I get a lot of slippage and extrusion stops. This doesn't seem right though? I dismantled and cleaned the hobbed gear yesterday, and I'm experimenting with prints. At the moment I can't even print the stock robot file without it stopping part way through, and I keep tightening the lever.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Thanks, Caribou. Printed again, this time with a 5mm brim and a cardboard screen around the printer, and it came out much better They have all warped on the side nearest the door, I think, so hopefully that is the issue.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Hi. Whenever I print a larger model, particularly one with a significant flat volume, they nearly always lift and warp at one or two edges. For example, this Raspberry Pi case, it lifted in one corner quite a bit. If I put a brim of 3mm on things like this, it doesn't lift as much, but it still does. Is there anything I can do besides adding an even larger brim? Not sure if it's related, bby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
I'm thinking about getting a few spare parts. Is the hobbed insert the same on the Fisher as the Ormerod? Will these fit? What about this Bowden start? Thanksby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Would "balls" like these have the clearance required for the full range of movement? If they did, you wouldn't have to worry about the exact length of the rod used. They've been used here:by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
I've not printed 3DBenchy, but I've been seeing the gaps on my prints too, so I'd be interested in knowing how to solve that. I did increase the extrusion multiplier from 0.95 to 1.0 in slic3r, which seemed to make very little difference. I also slowed the speeds down probably 33% from the stock settings.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
I might try redrilling them out a bit wider, I've got a 3.2mm bit, which will should make it a bit easier.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Well, I can't guarantee I drilled them all to exactly the same depth, or cut the rods exactly the same. I've just measured again, and I reckon there's less than 0.5mm difference between the longest and shortest. Unfortunately my caliper only goes to 150mm, so I had to use a ruler.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Hi, Dadiy. I actually did that, after reading your other posts about it. I bought extra arms too, so used those to help. I was really struggling to get the ends on and lined up after drilling them out, so I think one or two are a bit longer. I might try making a few more, I've got plenty of carbon rod. Shame the mugen ends aren't threaded, though I could try tapping them. Obviously threaded roby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Shame, part of the reason I went with RRP was the good support they provided to my dad when he got his Ormerod. Hopefully someone else will provide spares. Wish I'd ordered a second bed when I ordered the printer; I nearly did, just figured I'd get one later.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
I made some carbon arms for mine, but had printing issues. The first layers weren't sticking together at all. Could this be down to the arms not being exactly the same length? I made a jig using spare acrylic arms, but I still struggled. Thanks.by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Hi. I was already running at 210. I didn't try increasing the temp, as it didn't occur to me and I thought it would be high enough. This isn't happening regularly, or on every print, but enough that I don't trust leaving it alone to print at this point. Thanksby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
So, I've just had it stop extruding again during a print. Again, retracting 50-100mm then extruding again has got it going. Is this the nozzle getting clogged? Is so, is there something I can do to prevent this? Thanksby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Thanks. But what does this affect? 1.73x0.95 gives 1.65 - is this supposed to compensate for undersized filament? Or oversized? I have a sample of Rigid Ink, which is a solid 1.75mm across its length, should that be set to 1.75 and a multiplier of 1? In trying to understand why I have gaps, and thought it might be because of the undersized filament. Presumably slic3r extrudes based on the enby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
OK, that makes me feel better about what I was experiencing there. But what about the extruder stopping, or more likely skipping? After my last print failed, it wouldn't push anything through regardless, but there was no clicking. I backed it right off, then pushed it through again and it seemed OK. Could it have been a bad bit of filament? Regarding the gaps, I measured the PLA and it comby pixelseventy2 - Fisher
It's a Fisher 1. OK, it's good to know that needing the slower extrusion speed is normal. Are the higher speeds just there to pull it through the PTFE tube then?by pixelseventy2 - Fisher
Hi. I'm having a similar problem to a couple of the other recent posts, relating to extrusion. I've had several successful prints, but I've had to abort a couple of my last few bigger prints (only 35x80mm) early on due to it stopping extruding. I'm not hearing the skipping sound when it happens, it just stopped extruding. I have got my idler pretty tight, which I had to do at first to get iby pixelseventy2 - Fisher