Offer to make free CAD models of engineering parts and supply you with the STL file. (NZ only) Many people that have a 3D printer don’t have access to making their own CAD models and therefore invariably end up making other people’s parts say from Thingiverse. If you design the part and draw it on a piece of paper complete with dimensions I will work with you to enable you to print it on your oby Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi I had the same problem and found the culprit to be a slightly scored Bowden tube resulting in about 70% of the force required to move the filament went into overcoming the tube friction. I proved this by lightly lubricating the filament with some rice cooking oil and the problem went away completely. The small amount of oil does not seem to cause any ill effect on the plastic. To prove itby Waiata - General
Before retiring I used “Solidworks”for a number of years, Alas far too expensive now, A couple of years back I purchased a limited edition of “Alibre Design” which works well but is nowhere near as powerful as the tried and proven Solidworks. Tried “FreeCAD” but not all that impressed Now using “Oneshape” which seems to be very powerful. Highly recommend it although you need to be online to useby Waiata - 3D Design tools
Hi gmckee Thanks for that - Yes it’s exactly the information I was looking for and yes it works fine now Much appreciatedby Waiata - General
Hello I’m in the process of building another 3D printer using Ramps 1.4 with the latest Marlin software and a “ReprapDiscount Smart Controller 2004” for the display. The problem I have is when rotating the rotary encoder knob (for example) to increase the temperature you would think it should be turned in a clockwise direction, but No, on this thing you have to turn it anticlockwise. Can anyonby Waiata - General
Hello ShaneH Strange that the Black filament always tends to give blockage problems. I had the same problem with the 1.75mm Black filament from Jaycar Electronics but never had a blockage from DiamondAge filament. Have you had any blockage problems with any of the other colours from reeltoreal?by Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Has anybody tried using the “Thermal transfer Printing “ method to produce PCB’s instead of painting the PCB with a black paint. This foil is often used in manufacturing point of sale barcodes. The film consists of a very thin plastic film covered with a thin layer of some form of wax. I envisage that the PCB would be covered with the foil and using a fish tank air pump (using the vacuum side)by Waiata - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hello Viktor What a great project. Over the years I have struggled to make circuit boards using mainly the toner transfer method and designing the board using Eagle. A while back I built a 3D printer and seeing your project makes me think that It may be possible to modify the printer to accept the Laser diode. Could you suggest some suitable software to convert Eagle files and printing them onby Waiata - Laser Cutter Working Group
Has anybody had any problems with the new Jaycar 1.75 PLA filament?. I have just spent a frustrating week printing very large components and almost every time the 0.4mm Nozzle gets clogged resulting in a failed print. I have tried to compensate by increasing the temperature but the problem still exists. I suspect that it may be the black colour or possibly some sort of filling material they maby Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Simon You may be interested in a “direct drive extruder” I designed recently and fitted to my OB1.4 printer. The design uses your original “OBXcarry20” part. There is a small 11mm dia x 5mm dia x 4mm wide bearing to push the 1.75mm filament directly against a 8mm hobbed driver from “MAKERshop”. The filament goes directly through the middle of the toggle lever. One of the advantages of theby Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hotbed for $18.25 I recently made a Hotbed for my printer, total cost $18.25 Naturally the concern was how good will it be and now having printed more than 30 components on it both in ABS and PLA “Well actually pretty Good”. Whilst this is not a new idea it is quite a lot cheaper than using the large wire wound metal frame resistors but it requires a little more work. Initially I thought thatby Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Finally managed to get my new OB1.4 printer operational It seems to be a very sturdy design - Very happy with it Big thanks to Wired1 of Nelson for the open design.by Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A big thanks to those that offered to help. All the parts have now been printed.by Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Dust Thanks for your concern, I have had a good look at the OB1.4 design and drew it up in my cad, the conclusion is, it's a very sturdy design one or two things I would change ultimately but not immediately. The electronics are the same as most of the 3D printers so I think it's a goer. This brings me back to finding someone to print the parts.by Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hello I have just started to build a OB1.4 3D printer and need some kind person to help me print out the parts. Building the first printer seems to be the difficult part as I don't have access to a printer !!! Thanks in advanceby Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hello, Is there anyone in this forum that has built a OB1.4 3D printer or has some knowledge of it’s capabilities? I am interested in building one and need to find someone willing to print the plastic mouldings. I am in West Auckland Alfredby Waiata - New Zealand RepRap User Group