Hmm, maybe no improvement as such but you can see a big difference in appearence. Which in return, leaves me with the basics. Print speed, filament settings and temp. With the correct filament settings I can print from 20 to 150mm/s with little difference in the outside walls. If there is too much or too little filament used it looks crappy. Can even be your extruder, although with that constructby Downunder35m - Printing
For me it is just strange to see a sepearation line between two printed vertical areas. Usually the problems are consistent but not not in your way. If all variables are ruled out already it only leaves the hardware, but I doubt your printer would mess with the settings half way thorugh a print.by Downunder35m - Printing
Have you confirmed the steps for the extrusion are properly calibrated? I get these looks as well when the print speeds for the perimeters is too high / low. In this case I see the line before the outer perimeter is uneven, which causes the outer layer to do it in a similar way, just not as badly. In the big pic it also looks the settings have changed half way through the print as both halfs areby Downunder35m - Printing
You can can get sets of small drill bits from 0.2mm to 1mm in various steps. With the heated nozzle insert the drill bits and when you get to one that does not go in easy, don't force it as it should be either the right diameter or slightly higher. Best to check with a new nozzle as there is no plastic residue or burnt stuff messing with the diameter. Do some calibration prints, like 10mm cubesby Downunder35m - Printing
I though I post something about my new design: An anodised aluminium heater with build in heating wire. The design is pretty simple and straight forward, take a piece of aluminium round bar, add a thread for the wire and some holes for filament, nozzle and heat barrier. Here is the machined and anodised core: Due to being too blonde to drill holes smaller than 0.5mm I decided to change the desigby Downunder35m - Look what I made!
I had the spool in a container filled with silica gel in my oven at 50° C for about 4 hours. Did not change a thing, it still breaks like before, is brittle like glass and a test print with some solid parts in it cracked while cooling down. The seller is really helpful as he confirmed other people had similar complaints and offered to send new filament from a different supplier - if the old filamby Downunder35m - Printing
Tried some ABS today and it worked really good until the teflon got too soft. Printing ABS first try I think with the PEEK holder and maybe a "stubby" stainless steel heat barrier it should be fine and good to go. But will make the nozzle quite a bit shorter as with the heat barrier I won't need the long neck which was added to check if the longer melting chamber helps. As I know now, my problemby Downunder35m - Printing
Thank you for that! Will have to source some PEEK rods now I guess . Found an even better plastic for the job, Vespel - a high temp engeneering plasitc with superior properties. There is a few downsides though: Availability and price. If you though PEEK can be expensive to get check the only Ebay link for Vespel I could find and have a good laugh: Vespel SP1 - Ebay link. Ordered a few 0.3 and 0by Downunder35m - Printing
I have some pics and videos included in my Instructable. I was thinking of using a 5mm thick PEEK "washer" with a 8mm thread for the nozzle and a 6mm thread on the other side for the heat barrier. Here is a pic of the hotend in comparison to a standard J-head. And here just the nozzle ready to get the wires attached. I have no dramas printing PLA but the main goal for this design was to be ablby Downunder35m - Printing
I created a new and slim nozzle from aluminium with a direct heating system instead of heater cartridge or big resistor. Heat up to 200° in a few seconds, very easy to push filament through by hand (0.7mm nozzle). However the actual use in the printer troubles me a bit. Using a stainless steel heat barrier and a teflon mount to the x-carriage the printing is really good - until I stop or restart.by Downunder35m - Printing
Now that you mentioned that I tested the few parts that had enough printed for a snap test. The stuff is brittle like a dry cracker. Even thin parts have no flex and break right away. When I manage to get more than 20cm through the extruder it also started to come out discolored, often like burned sugar. Print temp was played with from 200° C down to 170° C with no difference. Guess it really meby Downunder35m - Printing
I am half way through an estimated 18 hour print now with no issues. But I am using the basic Pronterface. Even with the 3D preview the CPU and memory usage is moderate at best, considering the G-Code is a bit over 27mb. However I noticed some hick ups during the print where the printer stopped for about a second and the computer was totally unresponsive. So far I narrowed it down to hardware chaby Downunder35m - Printing
I got a few rolls of 3mm PLA delivered last week and wanted to do some prints over the weekend. However, using it seems to be impossible as it is quite brittle and tends to break when it gets fully straight. Had it going into my extruder a few times now but as soon as the print movements start it just breaks again. Contacted the seller by Email and he claims I am handling it wrong as the filamentby Downunder35m - Printing
I ordered some cheap nozzles from china some time ago and they are all in the bin now. Compared to the quality ones bought locally I found several issues: 1. The holes drilled are anything but the stated diameter. I checked with dental wire (which has a well defined diameter) and the 0.3 was actually 0.35mm. The 0.4 was actually between 0.3 and 0.35mm - could fit the 0.3mm wire quite loosely butby Downunder35m - Printing
Polyurthane is chemically inert, I don't any option for vapour polishing.by Downunder35m - Printing
I would use Kapton tape instead if there is already a heated bed. I got one of these thin and highly flexible wall scrapers / spatulas. Ony 2$ or so and sharpened ONE side so it looks like a chisel. Removed the edge with some fine sand paper so it it dull. Push under the part and do slight movements from left to right - the "blade" will work it's way under and after a few cm the part usually popsby Downunder35m - Printing
USB problems are quite common from what I could read over the years. I too struggled at times getting long prints to finnish without stopping. The best thing I have done to ensure my prints work out is to get a high quality USB cable that is just long enough to connect to the printer. Also make double sure all power connections and pin connections are 100%! A problem with gound on the power supplby Downunder35m - Printing
Combined with offset previously and the constant stopping in the same areas I suspect wrong setting in your slicer. If the stepper motors are driven too fast during infill, bridging or other print moves the printer goes out of alignment. If you have very rapid print moves in the area where the print stops I would first check the current setting for the motors then the acceleration control in theby Downunder35m - Printing
Have look here, it is for Slic3r and with that you can get most of the values you need in Simplify3D. If you just want to stick to Simplify do the same for the calibration as in the Instructable, just with the settings from Simplify. Start with the basic settings in the "Extruder" settings. Set the "Nozzle Diameter" to "0.4" and the "Extrusion Multiplier" to "1". Print a small test cube with fixeby Downunder35m - Printing
When you say "warping" does that also include the part is very easy to get off the print bed in some areas? If so you are loosing the grip on the tape. There are plenty of "recipies" on the ABS / Acetone mix on the web, I do not bother with those... Little jar that has a tight lid and about half full with acetone. I put pieces of ABS in there and they very slowly dissolve. Once the mix has the tby Downunder35m - Printing
Did you try a different slicer to confirm? Simplify3D can mess prints up sometimes, in my case it loves to print things without the holes in it. Why would the new nozzle extrude more? With a bigger hole you woud actually get less plastic onto the area as the amout of filament going through is less compared to the smaller hole. Maybe your old nozzle was already partially blocked for quite some andby Downunder35m - Printing
With a heated bed you should not have many problems in terms of warping parts. But I found a good use for my misprinted ABS parts by dissolving them in Acetone. I have a glass plate on my bed that can I lift out very easy and I use this Acetone / ABS mix and a brush to coat my blue tape. Work best after sanding the surface a bit with fine sand paper. If there is enough ABS dissolved in the Acetonby Downunder35m - Printing
Have a look here, check your alignment, wall thickness and so on with simple test cubes and objects with single walls (printing with "spiral vase"). Once you have done the initial calibration of filament, extrusion width and nozzle diameter the print should be in the same dimensions as your STL file. For small holes make sure have the temperature for the filament right, too high and the walls canby Downunder35m - Printing
I have similar noises during similar print moves, but not coming from the stepper motor. Check your linear bearings. If they are out of grease the balls inside start to rattle, indicating it is time for a good clean uout and re-grease. The sound in the video does not sound like a stepper motor to me.by Downunder35m - Printing
Hello fellow 3D printing enthusiasts! I am one of the poor guys that ordered the first Mega Prusa by Stuffmaker and had trouble ever since. The support is non existing and the hardware flaws just annoying.... Anyway, I got fed up with the lack of official support and did some modifications to my system. First step was to create a new firmware based on the latest Marlin release, Repetier might folby Downunder35m - Printing