Also, is linear advance still incompatible with Cura (2.5)?by godefroi - Firmware - Marlin
I've, after significant effort and many tries, gotten UBL up and running. I'm confused, however, about two things. First, what am I supposed to put in the start g-code in my slicer? Previously it was G28 and G29, now I'm thinking it should be G28 and ...? G29 T seems like the ideal option, but using that seems to disable UBL (G29 W says it's inactive) and it's clearly not working. G29 A T seemsby godefroi - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteAx As a note, it may be a bit more printing than you want to do, but if you reprint the carriers, carriage and layer fan assembly from the FB2020, it will all just drop into the Fusebox. I'm really quite partial to the centrifugal setup, because of the higher pressure; it should perform better with ducting.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
They're both X and Y. Doesn't really matter which goes where. Just make sure your motors move in the correct direction when instructed (I did this from pronterface), and if they don't, reverse a connector or the other until they do. Remember, the X limit switch is MAX, not MIN.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
I think the blower setup available on Thingiverse has the potential to improve things, but the fan nozzle I think could use some more work.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Stranded is a must for the bed, as it's always moving. For the PSU, solid is better.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
I used 14 gauge solid from the PSU, and 16 gauge speaker wire to the bed. I think. Might have been 12 and 14. Heavier is better, you're dealing with a lot of current.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
The other thing the carriage could desperately use is improved print cooling. Half of the 40mm fan is not really enough.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl wow, that's a heck of a long way - that's.. what... 100mm??! No, it's about 50mm. It's available here: and I made a video of the print of the bridge: Next up will be this one, I guess:by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
For those using Marlin, here's what I just did. Under @homing: //#define USE_XMIN_PLUG #define USE_YMIN_PLUG #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG #define USE_XMAX_PLUG //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG Under @homing: const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of theby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkcl yeah i had this problem as well, and it was very confusing. i think i cycled through these combinations you recommended, dc42, several times what i particularly didn't get was that i had designed the printer to have the x endstop in the wrong corner, and, not being able to move it i had to tell the firmware that the x endstop was a "max" *not* a "min". godefri, what controller are yby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Quotelkclthe prints are probably coming off because the bed isn't level. bed level calibration is really important, do a z-switch "Home" then switch OFF the printer . make sure the printhead is cool before beginning. you should get a really thin piece of paper (a shopping receipt is perfect) then put that underneath the printhead, and "drag" it. if it doesn't move you have the screw down tooby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
I got mine put together enough to actually make it to "print" stage. My first print only made it to two layers before the nozzle caught it and started dragging it around, but I'd say, for the very first print from my very first printer (having had no prior 3d printing experience), on cold unprepped glass after eyeballing the bed level and nozzle gap, I'm pretty proud of myself! My second print (aby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Also, to be totally clear here, I'm not trying to boot it without powering via USB; If I plug in the USB, it doesn't boot, until such time that either A) I reflash the firmware, or I open the Arduino IDE's serial monitor. Once I do either of those things, it boots fine.by godefroi - Firmware - Marlin
I disconnected the 5v regulator on my board (because it was damaged). I plan to power the Arduino via the USB, and the RAMPS with the 12v supply. I'm not confident that this is the issue, however, because it behaved this way before I killed the 5v regulator.by godefroi - Firmware - Marlin
Using a Mega 2560 and Marlin 1.1-RC6 (I've got a CoreXY setup put together here), I'm having trouble getting Marlin to boot up. When I connect power, I get a sort of flickering screen (I'm using a "RepRapDiscount Smart Controller" clone with the character-based LCD). If I hit the reset button on the RAMPS, it starts flickering with a bit of the Marlin boot screen (the top left corner of the "bubbby godefroi - Firmware - Marlin
My parts are mostly still in transit, so I haven't had a chance to document my build yet...by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Yeah, placing the jumpers puts the motor drivers into microstepping mode, which moves the shaft a fraction of a step at a time instead of a full step. The disadvantage here is that the more microsteps per step you use, the less torque you have. For example, a 76 oz motor in 1/4 step mode (so, 800 steps per rev), only has 30 oz-in of effective torque. At 1/32 microstepping (the default if you're uby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
AlexY mentions in the comments on Thingiverse that he's using 76 oz-in steppers. Judging by what's commonly available (say, at robotdigg), that seems pretty high. They, for example, have: 40 oz-in (34mm body) 57 oz-in (40mm body) 57 oz-in (40mm body) 62 oz-in (48mm body) 92 oz-in (60mm body, labeled "high torque") Should I go for the 92 oz-in steppers (they're only $1 more than the 62 oz-in), orby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
QuotewidespreaddeadheadOne of the nice things about the 15x15 extrusions is they can take regular hex m3 nuts! Well, that's excellent news, since the hex nuts are already orderedby godefroi - CoreXY Machines
And, here's one already. Do I need the fancy square nuts from MiSUMi, or can I buy cheap hex M3 nuts from just about anywhere?by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for the offer anyway, and I certainly will. Given I've never assembled anything like this before, I'm sure I'll have questions. I consider myself a pretty handy guy, but this is new territory!by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
QuotewidespreaddeadheadJust by chance, what state are you located in? Utah.by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
Quotewidespreaddeadheadtry searching www.3dhubs.com for a printer near you! Ah, perfect, that's exactly the sort of thing I was looking for, thanks! I also found a coworker who has a printer (XYZ da Vinci) who is eager to print the parts for cost, so I'm going to try that route for the first couple parts. I'm not sure he'll be able to do much troubleshooting if something's not perfect, though,by godefroi - CoreXY Machines
I've gotten the itch to build a printer, and I'd kinda like to build a CoreXY variant instead of a Prusa-type (which seems to be the standard default). If I wanted to get a set of the necessary printed parts for the Fuse Box, would that be possible, and where might I look?by godefroi - CoreXY Machines