Just for reference here is a link to the little finger that fixes the issue. Extruder Fingerby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Was there a panic when they ordered 500 ?by Davek0974 - Ormerod
It can be used before printing the finger/tongue, just wedge the extruder gently to stop it twisting on the arm. The link for the finger is on my site with the arm kit. Yes the kits fit Mk1 OR Mk2 models.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk excellent, do I just pay you via paypal on Monday then message you when done or, through your site? QuoteDavek0974 Hi of course, they are due to be ready for posting on Tuesday next week. Dave They are currently turned off on the site so direct Paypal please, presuming it's a UK address, the total is £44.45, make sure address is on there somewhere Many thanksby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi of course, they are due to be ready for posting on Tuesday next week. Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hmm, now I know I had this working before on Mach3, I have the video to prove it somewhere From what I recall, it was simply a matter of making sure Slic3r and Mach3 both used relative movements for the axis connected to the extruder motor so it continually moved forwards only, don't quote me on that though But it really did work, just hampered by useless nozzle and lack of knowledge.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi, Yes we can of course, but remember it is not essential, just an optional extra. Please email me your address and i'll post a bit off. Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
I have a spare axis and motor drive so as long as it uses the correct rel/abs moves i think I can just fit a suitable extruder and try it. I did have a go before i got my Ormerod, this was on a small plasma cutter table, and it did work but i knew nothing of heated beds, good or bad nozzles, layer heights etc so i gave up, i did manage to print a small nut though and still have it somewhere Thby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Noted, thanks Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi We are now currently between batches - the current run has sold out. If you want to put your name down for the next batch please let me know. Yes there was a self adhesive shim with the early kits, it goes where the bearing runs along but most users did not use it so i stopped supplying it, i can put one in by special order, there is no extra cost. As Treito says it is most important that tby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Brilliant, many thanks, just what i needed The machine i am contemplating has a Z res of 0.025mm and X&Y of 0.0375mm per step. Limited in height but thats the way it goes, probably max 100mm tall maybe 125mm. But a big area of 400x500 to play with Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi all, I'm away from home at the moment but sketching out a design for a universal CNC type machine, was pondering making it so i could fit a hot bed and bolt on an extruder. Could anyone fill me in on what the step resolution for X, Y & Z is or should be for a decent 3D printer, also what sort of top-end speed is needed in X & Y?? Many thanks Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk QuoteDavek0974 HI again As we have now started the next batch of X-arm kits, could I please ask all those that expressed an interest to head on over to my shop X-ARM KITS HERE and place their order as they are fist-come-first-served and batch is limited qty. I would expect dispatch to be within two weeks. Many thanks Dave Dave can I be really cheeky, could you reserve mineby Davek0974 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Thanks Dave for the shim. It's okay for a new part, but for repairing my other one it would have been too thin. But I am curious. How this is called and how could I get it? It could be of interest for my own design, maybe. The tape is simply called shim tape, its used in my day-job which is die-cutting and printing, see if you have a printers supplies company near you, ask for selfby Davek0974 - Ormerod
HI again As we have now started the next batch of X-arm kits, could I please ask all those that expressed an interest to head on over to my shop X-ARM KITS HERE and place their order as they are fist-come-first-served and batch is limited qty. I would expect dispatch to be within two weeks. Many thanks Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
That bump has now gone as it was only there to reinforce the weaker acrylic part where the nut slot was. I will start a new batch now as we have enough interest, the slot has been replaced with a threaded hole, again this appeared to only be there because you cannot easily thread acrylic parts, aluminium is far easier to work with so the new batch will have no bump and no nut slot. For polishinby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quoteandynxn Could you put me down for the next batch also please Yes of course, should be starting this week Will let everyone knowby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Ok, so that says replace the slot with a tapped hole then, makes sense.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Just a thought, That little bolt (nut cut-out) slot is to me a sign that's been made the rap-rap way with laser cutter or any other method. Adding/replacing it with a tapped hole just adds another process for manufacturer. Can't see the reason for a threaded hole. Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then. I am open mindedby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk QuoteDavek0974 Quoteormerod168 QuoteDavek0974 ..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole??? Dave Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those Erik Really? It was a long while back, cant remember the first batch now I will remove the slot and fit a threaded hole then. put me down ofby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteDavek0974 ..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole??? Dave Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those Erik Really? It was a long while back, cant remember the first batch now I will remove the slot and fit a threaded hole then.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quoterjmusto Dave - yes please. Thanks. R Hi Yes you would like an arm kit or yes you would like me to remove the nut cutout, or both ??by Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk Hi Dave I don't know how easy it would be to do and I hope you don't think me rude to say, but would it be an idea to lose the cut out for the z idler washer and nut and put it as a threaded hole? I have included a pic of where i mean circled in red what do you think? Steve Hi Not rude of course, sensible question. The drawing was taken from the original acrylic parts so yesby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Hi no but i can put your name on the list for the next batch. Should not be long before i get enough interest to get going now. Daveby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Thanks Treito, good explanation of the issue. It definitely takes more than 10mins to fit, took me about an hour as I wanted to get everything set just so, no point in rushing this stuff. I am nearly at the point where I can start another batch.by Davek0974 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Quotesteve0-uk Quoteunstable Mine turned up too, thanks a lot. Is it just a straight swap for ormerod 2? Totally a straight swap. Should take you about 10 mins to swap them over That is some sort of rumour. On my last batch I had to file some areas. it is long ago, but I think it took me something about 30-60 mins. I am curious how the new batch will look like. But mounting will takby Davek0974 - Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk QuoteDavek0974 you can do it, use something like Brasso metal polish, its filthy work though, it also marks up easily when polished. [/quote Might just anodize it instead then A much better idea I think you can also dye it a cloud when anodising too. Yes it is a straight swap, but, there is always a but, it will need some fine fettling with a small file etc, nothing major, itsby Davek0974 - Ormerod
you can do it, use something like Brasso metal polish, its filthy work though, it also marks up easily when polished.by Davek0974 - Ormerod