What a nice discussion! In my mind there are 3 types of 3d printer users. 1 Business, it needs to print always, when I need it to with perfect quality 2 Consumer, who wants to print stuff. It needs to print whenever needed, but quality is less of an issue 3 Hobbist, who want to tinker with 3d printers, build em upgrade em and mod them. 1st group, already covered with some expensive systems out tby Lykle - General
Alternatively you could mount a Remote Direct Drive, where the stepper is mounted on the frame and the extruder part is mounted on the print head, driven by a drive cable. All the benefits of both systems and none of the drawbacks. And if you need an adapter to make it fit with your printer and the V6, we will design one for you.by Lykle - General
Need me to re-work any designs? Or are you guys all set now? Lykleby Lykle - General
This is my mess at the moment. Of course I have added the piezo sensor wires, an air tube for the print cooling, another 2 leads for LED lighting (not used) and the drive cable for the Nimble. That allows me to put everything in a braided sleeve. The drive cable gives it a nice arch to follow down to the stepper.by Lykle - General
Stone the crows, it works! Never knew this option existed. (I am talking about creating the link in msg option) Image is me playing with a bard-air type cooling on my integrated piezo effector test. So basically I am testing an image option with an image of me testing cooling on a testing rig for testing piezo sensor calibration tests. Reminds me of when I was making a tool, to make a tool,by Lykle - General
Quick test shows a little bar almost doubling in strength. It went from 21 kg with simple 25% infill to 36 kg with 25% infill and a "spine" of 0.1 mm holes along the center. The holes were spaced 0.5 mm apart.by Lykle - General
Yeah, I know that newer versions of my cad package does have custom holes, that can be configured and parameters set up. Mine doesn't but it is easy enough to create the geometry. So I am happy with how I can design the strengthening. It does make the print take a lot longer.by Lykle - General
Also, I like the fact that I can do it all in design, not afterwards in a slicer. But, yes I had forgotten about modifiers in Slic3r. Will look into it a bit more. If the modifier can be a fully detailed 3d form, then it is a better solution, but not one that will work in S3D. There is always more ways than one to crack an egg. Lykleby Lykle - General
When the heat block is near working temperature, I simply open the breech block and yank it out. Slide the new filament in the hot end, press down to see it ooze out and close the breech block. Roughly 1.5 seconds.by Lykle - General
The moment you throw the Remote Direct Drive idea into the mix it gets even more complex. For instance, we use a 30:1 reduction, mainly due to the fact that we use a worm gear. We measured pushing forces of around 5 to 6 kilo's with a normal Nema17 stepper. I am now using a little Nema 14 stepper with the amps turned down low. As for speed, we feel we are in the right speed range and there areby Lykle - General
For me, this is a new idea, but probably not for you guys. Working on a clamp system for a quick release hot end, I realised that I wanted the area around the clamping bit to be strong and hefty while the rest can be fairly light. Adding layers to the top and sides is one way, but then that is all over the part, not locally. So I could make the part in 2 pieces, one piece with light infill andby Lykle - General
Niceby Lykle - General
Well, I guess that is it for tonight. Was testing with my sensor setup and it simply stopped responding. I think I must have touched metal with the board and short circuited it. I will have another look tomorrow, but I think I will be ordering a new board. Lucky Moriquendi has some new ones. Lykleby Lykle - General
Yeah don't give up on Ninjaflex. I did get it to work. Lykleby Lykle - General
Nice going Mike! That ties in nicely with an integrated Nimble effector I have been working on. The effector houses an integrated peizo sensor which the back of the Nimble rests on. Underneath the sensor is a little space so the sensor can bend. Normally the Nimble is already used to clamp the hot end and this allows the sensor to sense the tap on the bed. The extruder is used here as the fby Lykle - General
I will contribute on the Wiki what I can, DJ. Looking forward to the 20 mm results Mike.by Lykle - General
The problem with magnetic joints like this is that the forces do not line up correctly. Take the effector, the magnets are pulling the balls down vertically. There is only a small dimple formed by the diameter of the hole in the magnet to handle any horizontal forces. And those are the strongest. So depending on the arm position the forces are more or less handled by the magnet. If you had cylby Lykle - Delta Machines
Hi all, I published my version of the same thing on Thingiverse. It was a pleasure working with DJDemonD to get this thing wrapped up. All I did was the final design, the bulk of the research and work was done by LeadingLights, Huntley, Moriquendi and of course DJDemonD. It does look like a very nice system. All I need to do now is finish the 64 mm wide effector for Doug and finish the designby Lykle - General
Hi Richard, Yeah nice idea. Move the Nimbles up a bit and add a sensor in there. Interesting. Shit, too many ideas rattling around in my brain. Lykleby Lykle - General
Chris, you mean that this sensor is not only for the Nimble? No of course not. This is one of the reasons I used a simple clip to clip to the Nimble. Simply replace that part to make it fit any other system. There would be no point at all to develop something that is limited to only the Nimble. But do you have any ideas? Any way to make it simpler or easier to use? Lykleby Lykle - General
Hi Guys, Just made some eye candy for you all. Most nuts and bolts are sorted out and it all seems to fit nice and tidy. Next challenge is to make it work on a Chimera. I have added holes to pass tubing through in case you want to use Bard-air type cooling. Lykleby Lykle - General
Hi ClearlynotStafan, What is the distance between the balls of your magentic arms. Not the length of the arms, but on the effector. I have a 48 mm one and a 64 mm one ready. Once DJ gives the go-ahead I will post them on the Zesty Thingiverse page and DJDemonD will probably put them up on his as well. Let me know. Currently tweaking the design to make sure all the screws needed are standardby Lykle - General
New version is in your mailbox.by Lykle - General
Laser mouse sensor might just work. They detect motion even on glass table tops etc, so "should" detect motion in a filament, regardless of the colour.by Lykle - General
Quotenebbian it doesn't detect when the filament makes its way out of the filament guide path (after the extruder gear) Hmm, I have never had that experience with either Ninjaflex or TPU. But then, my filament path is fully enclosed and I think more and more people are being aware of it, so it probably is a problem that is reducing all the time. I would like a load cell (strain gauge) in the hoby Lykle - General
Since we are talking about the filament sensors, here is a preview of what we were planning. The idea is that in the center there is a magnet rotating. Under that magnet is a sensor sensing the rotation. On the left is a pressure wheel, pressing the filament against the magnet using a 3d printed "spring" in dark blue. On the other side is a clip that will allow you to clip it to the Nimble. Tby Lykle - General
Ha you made me laugh, once again.by Lykle - General
Oh man! I had that once as well, with a slitting saw. Just do a mirror copy and you will be ok.by Lykle - Delta Machines
Another way to get the part to release easily is to freeze it with Freeze spray. Spray on the edge, and it cools down really fast, wait a sec and it comes right off. Compressed air in a can held upside down also works, but then it is empty pretty quickly. Also, if using compressed air, be careful as most of those cans do not hold air, but propane. Kinda flammable! Pity that film is not easy toby Lykle - General
My Boots Industries V2.5 delta came equipped with line. It was one of the first mods I made, to go to belts. Even before I received the printer, BI had offered the belt conversion and boy was it needed! Constant trouble with it, if it was not tight enough, it would mess up on the winding side, but it was very hard to get it tight enough. It never printed reliable with the line (steel woven andby Lykle - General