old posts now, but see and So yes, technically you can get it in Nz, it will cost to $500-$900nz for $50us of extrusion re Ullrich Aluminium, "Unfortunatley we have nothing in that size 20x20mm t-slot, our only one is a 57x32mm."by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Wallace is experimental, Do you want to experiment or just print? If the latter its not recommended. I also say Prusa Mendel. Easy to build, lots of support, even from within NZ, and has a reasonable build sizeby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I put a dial gauge on X,Y and Z axis to make 1mm moves as close as possible to 1mm I have not found any local sources for t-slot extrusions at all. I got a mate to send me some from the USA. Now you can now buy it from store.mendelmax.com and get it shipped directly.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A bit bulgy could be that you e steps is to large, putting out fractionally to much plastic, our you filament measurement is out. Have you tuned it? ie marked 100mm of filament from the top of the extruder, then slowly extruded 100mm via pronterface. and checking the line is now on top of the extruder? Rotating an object is one thing that missing in pronterface. You can rotate in the Slic3r gby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The lucky last RAMPS 1.3 PCB is now listed on trademe $1 reserve Be quick, or miss out! (someone has already bid on it, so when the auction runs out, thats it, they are all gone)by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Ekman There is a bit of cross over Normally you run Pronterface and load the stl file, it will run slic3r and generate gcode. Which pronterface will then send to the printer (after you have connected and hit print) First thing to check is you configure slic3r from pronterface (settings|slicer setting) should start up slic3r If it doesnt you need to check settings|options in pronterfaceby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Since your able to read the temp, Im thinking the thermistor is fine. Witch leaves the firmware, and FET and micro to check It sounds like the firmware is fine, if it can read the temp and turn on the heater it should be able to turn it off. If you just turn it on and leave it the hot end does stay at room temp? (ie its not always heating is it?) If your up to some soldering swap your two Fby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Teacup is really old firmware, most use Sprinter or Marlin. There is a configuration for ramps 1.2 in sprinter. It doesnt look like marlin supports the older ramps. link for sprinter ReplicatorG is also not the best, it looks fancy but... are you trying to make a makerbot?? I recommend Pronterface and use slic3r for you slicer But if you insist on RepG... Check the generated gcode, tby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Not quite parts but... This should work, if you wire up a cable between it and your SL I haven't tried this yet... is on my to try list.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A quick reply since I should be asleep.. 1) they aren't that cheap... you will have to solder the legs on. 2) turn you z motor cables around 180 degrees (or you can change the direction in firmware) but if the plugs let you, just turn them around. If they don't then you will need to re-flash your firmware. Either way its not a fault, just a setting. 3) get a new FET the part number is STPby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi Rui 1) on pronterface lower left is a "extrude" and "reverse" buttons. Next to reverse is a number, this is the speed of extrusion and reverse (myne says 300). Try lowering this to about 50. and see if it makes any difference 2) check your wiring to the thermistor, also check the resistance of the thermistor. You can also swap the heated build platform thermistor plugs with the hot end thby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
This was posted 3 months ago... A SL, with a damaged CPU... see I never heard any more... so hopefully he is working now..by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I found ABS horrid... but I will be trying it again in a ventilated environment (one day) I'm not blinded with PLA, I know the material has limitations as does ABS. As for heated platform, it will still be required for larger pieces even with PLA. I print on warm glass, that surface turns out ultra smooth and shiny. (its 60 degrees C, so its not that dangerous, the extruder nozzle at 170 it isby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Actually I sent you two, just in case NZ post did their best to destroy it somehow! (as they seem to like to do) It is PLA though, you may prefer ABS and its bright orange!by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
PM me your address and ill send one up.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Well I can send one from chch if you don't get a closer offerby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
What city are you in?by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Nah the next step is checking all the soldering and swapping parts... Not advisable when it has a warranty Send it back.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I would like to hear what you find when you get this board back. If thats ok.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The jumper looks to already be in place (almost directly in the center of your pictureby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
If number 2 gave the next line, It thinks it connected but then something went funny... M105 is Get_Extruder_Temperature. tI just asks the board to tell you the temperature of the extruder Well I would try flashing the firmware, and if that doesn't work contact your supplier To flash the Firmware isnt very hard, just follow the following. Download and unzip into your home directory Downlby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A reprap is not a drive, it will not show up as a drive. Only as a serial port. Which it sounds like it is doing. So next load up pronterface and and select the serial port that appear / disappear when you plug the board in. Top left pull down, will probably be the highest com port number Set baud rate to 115200 as pictured. click on connect (shown as disconnect on this image as its alreby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Its probably a Sanguinololu Board. It appears to the operating system as a serial port. Under windows you can see it appear and disappear from the device manager, under linux you can see it in the logs. You can find drivers hereby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
After reading the above... I would say with 99% confidence you have blown the micro (the large black chip) You say it was working and the firmware is unlikely to be changed. The thermistors are also directly connected to the micro. I would say get a new micro at this stage, get one pre programmed eg (this may not be the only thing, but one thing at a time... FETs could also be gone, thus no hby Dust - General
If your thinking about getting one of these, you better be quick, I've only got 5 left. Once they are gone, that it for me. On or if you want one.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Some fairly detailed answers and pointers 1 this points to the direction line to your stepper driver not toggling, either a dead stepper driver, or dead Microcontroller Pin. Or a bad joint between the two. Swap the X and Y Stepper cables (while it is off) Then try moving X back and forward in pronterface (this should move y back and forwards) If it moves fine try moving Y back and forth (x willby Dust - General
Have you tried molten media here in Christchurch? He has 2nd hand steppers quite often.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
One thing I found the hard way is don't use Zink coated m8 on the Z, its to rough and produces to much friction. Use stainless steel m8 on Z if you can.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
yes its thats it. It controls how much power the steppers get. Skipping is a good indication of not enough power. The standard way it to turn it all the way down (anti clockwise) then slowly turn it up (clockwise) till the moters move (they wont at first) then give it an extra 1/8 of a turn If its to high the stepper will get to warm, the stepper drivers could start screaming and or the steppby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group