QuoteTMD_RS436 Well the PSU supplied to me was made by Ace and says the +12V line can handle up to 24A Max. Interesting, the Alpine one says 32A max. But 24A should be more than enough, I'm wondering whether the sudden reduction in load when the bed heater turns off causes the output of these PSUs to momentarily rise to a point at which an overvoltage circuit cuts in and shuts the supply down.by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteTMD_RS436 So it sounds like I may have an iffy PSU or the printer is taking too much current from the PSU. I have also noticed that when the heaters are on the little fan slows down a little, I don't know if anyone else gets this as well. Sounds to me that you need to ask RRP for a replacement PSU. But the fan slowdown when the bed heater comes on is normal, the 12V supply on cheap ATX PSUsby dc42 - Ormerod
You need to look at the fan specifications. This one, which looks similar to the one supplied in the kit, has a higher specified flow rate at zero pressure than either of those two. However, the NMB one linked to by ormerod168 can produce a higher static pressure, so might be more suitable in an application like this where the output is constrained.by dc42 - Ormerod
Looks good! A couple of suggestions: 1. Can you provide negative feed amounts as well? When a print fails, I would like to retract some filament. 2. When using the "Send g-code" function, it would be really useful to report the result (e.g. so that I can do IR sensor calibration over Ethernet). I realise this would need some work on the firmware to report the result, but I could add that.by dc42 - Ormerod
Jon, did you download stl files and process them with slic3r to create the gcode, or did you download gcode files directly? If you downloaded gcode files directly -> don't. You need gcode files suitable for your Ormerod, which is probably not what you found. If you downloaded STL files and processed them with slic3r, did you copy the Ormerod profiles across to slic3r and use those? You may nby dc42 - Ormerod
I'm ready to submit my Ethernet changes (plus a small improvement to the temp calculation) to RRP via Github, and waiting for RRP to tell me how they want me to do this. In the meantime, there are a couple of other firmware changes I am considering: 1. Z probing. I am finding that after I define the Z probe value with G31, if I execute a G30 z-probe and then do a G31, it has overshot by a variabby dc42 - Ormerod
I'm not planing to design a pcb for this yet, but if/when I do then I agree that either a polarised connector is needed or no damage must be done if it is inverted. I connected my sensor board backwards initially, and whether by luck or good design by RRP, this doesn't cause any damage.by dc42 - Ormerod
I attach a fairly detailed proposal for modifying the hardware and firmware to support modulation of the IR sensor. I would appreciate feedback before I implement it, in particular from Ian in case RepRapPro have any similar plans.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Does that mean that I will need to change all my hotend temperature settings after updating my firmware? Yes. By my calculation, the temperature which the old firmware reported as 200C will be reported by the new firmware as 188.3C. In other words, if the new firmware is accurate, then the old firmware was over-reporting by about 12C .by dc42 - Ormerod
Interesting! I just found these PTFE offcuts, but unfortunately I don't have the equipment to do precise machining.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotetru168 Hi, Thats a good idea, but then we need to have constant ambient light, especially you place your printer near window. As for artificial light, it blinks following your main power source at 50Hz or 60 Hz. I don't know if it interfere the operation of light sensor? That's why a dedicated processor taking continuous readings at a high rate would be better. However, I think the approaby dc42 - Ormerod
When I was unable to build the firmware, I was considering adapting an attiny board I have to produce something that was hardware-compatible with the existing sensor. It would also have made it easier to use a fixed frequency so as to reject 50/60Hz modulation in the ambient light. But now that I can build the firmware, I will try modulating the IR in firmware. As I mentioned before, a transistorby dc42 - Ormerod
Treth, that's what I was planning to try. It still requires a hardware mod, because the IR output cannot be switched by the Duet. I haven't tried it yet because for a while I couldn't build the firmware, then when I could I was distracted getting the Ethernet working reliably. The current firmware averages 5 sensor readings AFAIR, and I was going to change that to add 3 readings with the LED on aby dc42 - Ormerod
The plan is to use the x-runner bearing force measurement in place of the z-height sensor. We may retain the existing sensor for x-homing, also perhaps for course measurement so that we know when we are getting close to contact and can slow down. When the force on the bearing drops significantly, we will know that we are at a small negative height - we'll find out how much when we test it. I willby dc42 - Ormerod
The port number goes up by 1 when you erase and reset the Duet, at least when running Windows. Then back down 1 when bossac has finished and restarted the Duet.by dc42 - Ormerod
Hi Henrik, If you are getting the control page and password screen, then your config.g settings are good enough. I had the same problem on one of my computers. Try my modified firmware here to see if it fixes the problem. I intend to submit my changes to github soon and I would welcome your feedback first. It's based on the version 0.50 firmware, so make sure you have the homex, homey and homezby dc42 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks I'd thought of indirect force sensing - perhaps a strain-gauge coupled to the nozzle, and that has probably got legs - and it looks like the FSR monitoring the X-bearing load may be more elegant, but also requires some redesign of the firmware and hardware and may have variable reponse requiring a "window" comparison. Have you considered a switch (either a roller microswitch in pby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts @dc42: Going back to the initial problem, have you swapped the motors around on the axes? To eliminate a motor/wiring/stepper driver problem. Ian RepRapPro tech support No, I haven't yet. The motors are not missing steps (except when the extruder stutters due to the head being too low). The main issue is that the Z axis G31 setting is repeatable at the start of a print, but not aby dc42 - Ormerod
Are the 4 tabs on the USB socket securely soldered to the board? Some of the early boards did not have them all soldered (mine had 2 out of 4), and one user reported that the actual USB connections between the socket and the PCB had fractured as a result.by dc42 - Ormerod
Quoterayhicks (hijack apology) - DC42 could you outline the development system you've got working please? Maybe worth starting another thread... See this thread.by dc42 - Ormerod
Yes, those figures are reasonable. White PVC tape gives more consistent readings than metal tape does. The readings are also greatly affected by head sag, so check that the hot end is level.by dc42 - Ormerod
I tried the acetone test. The filament doesn't dissolve or go tacky when dunked for a few minutes, however the colour leaches out and it gets stretchy. If I rub a smooth shiny surface from the bottom of a print with acetone, it goes dull quite quickly. The filament supplied with the kit shows the same effects, but to a lesser extent. So I think it's PLA, but not very good PLA. I just received anby dc42 - Ormerod
..here it is, uses AD10 if I've interpreted the Arduino core pin mapping for the SAM processor correctly.by dc42 - Ormerod
I'll build you a test version (but it will have my Ethernet changes in it).by dc42 - Ormerod
Quoteiamburny Great, I will start re-designing the x-runner bearing mount to be adjustable and to also include a ~4mm space/slot for a FSR400 force sensor you linked earlier, so a relaxation of force e.g. greater electrical resistance will indicate the head touching the bed. FSR 400 Datasheet also for sale on ebay here Matt Thanks Matt, I just ordered one from eBay.by dc42 - Ormerod
Ray, is that the Marley KS10 solvent cement you are using?by dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks, Ray. I find the Kapton difficult to apply without getting bubbles in it anyway. I'll give the PVC solvent cement a go. I did wonder whether they might have sent me ABS filament by mistake, since it is labelled just "3D printing filament" plus a batch number; but I guess if it were ABS then it wouldn't print at all at 205C.by dc42 - Ormerod
BTW markbee's design (and probably most of the other designs) acts as a finger guard too. I cut my finger on the fan once when I was rather careless while the fan was running, so this is a welcome safety benefit IMO.by dc42 - Ormerod
I've bought a new roll of PLA filament via Amazon, and I'm having trouble getting it sticking to the bed. I clean the bed with isopropanol between prints, and I've tried renewing the Kapton tape too. Is this likely to be due to poor filament quality? Has anyone any tips to make it stick better?by dc42 - Ormerod