Adapto/es

From RepRap
Revision as of 06:42, 12 May 2013 by ROTORIT (talk | contribs) (Created page with '<H1> Esperemos que este wil obtener transelatet al español pronto</H1> {{Development <!--Header--> |name = Adapto |status = working <!--Image--> |image = Adapto.jpg <!--General-…')
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)
Jump to: navigation, search

Esperemos que este wil obtener transelatet al español pronto

Crystal Clear action run.png
Adapto

Release status: working

Adapto.jpg
Description
Adapto is a 3D printer that can be built with many different types of frames and frame materials.
License
GPL
Author
Contributors
Based-on
Categories
CAD Models
External Link

ADAPTO

Screenshot of the .blend file

Info

The thought behind the Adapto 3D printer is that one can use the same printed parts on printers with different types of materials (in the frame).

The history behind this design is that i got hold of some alu extrusions that was intended to be used on a MendelMax. During the MM build i got so extremely annoyed with how over engineered it is so I decided to tear the MM apart in favor to make a design that only used 50% of the MM extrusions (that means i now have enough extrusions for 2 printers :D ).

I also designed the parts in a way that makes the builder able to use either Alu extrusions (20x20mm), wood, alu, acryl plates or plates made out of any material actually (if it is stiff enough).

I recommend not using anything thicker than 20mm thick plates/stripes (due to the y motor mount and y idler parts) and use max 34mm wide frame parts (due to the design of the feets), but thinner is ok if the material is stiff enough.

For an alu Adapto Walkaround Video, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWmtuGsg8Us

Some variants

Aluminum Adapto
A wooden adapto

As known this is a VERY "hackable" design and have a lot of options. It is impossible to cover all the things one can do to make the Adapto printer design work but if you are interested you can read about some more options and things that is possible on the Sample BOM for a Big T-Slot Adapto page. That BOM page lists parts, gives sample sources, and discusses possible alternatives.

ChristianS have made a awesome job making that page and it is highly recommended to pop by to read it.

Open your mind and let the creativity flow!



More info

This is also posted on:

The most up to date Files will always be on GitHub.


This is such an easy build it dont need much instructions.

  • Print the parts
  • choose your frame material
  • look at the pictures
  • BUILD IT! :D

Thanks to the entire RepRap- and Thingiverse- comunity for all the inspiration.

All the pictures can be viewed and downloaded from Thingiverse and GitHub

If you decide to build one, please feel free to add a pin on the Adapto map.

ENJOY!


Parts

Although this is a easy to build printer one need some parts for it.

  • RP parts that is the Printet plastic parts like extruder, smooth rod holders and parts that holds the frame together.
  • Frame that in this case is 20x20mm aluminum t-slot extrusions.
  • Smooth rods that in this case is 8mm thick.
  • Vitamins like screws, nuts, bearings, hobbed bolt, belts, pulleys springs and more.
  • Electronics that controls and drive the unit and also things like stepper motors, PSU, thermistors, heated bed, hot end, wires and more.

RP parts

This is the RP parts you need to build a 20x20mm alu extrusion framed Adapto with 8mm smooth rods, M5 Z-threaded rods and makes a 200x240mm build area with a Z travel up to about 270mm

So if you have a MendelMax frame laying around you can build 2 of this Adapto 3D printer :-)

Quantity Part Name Part Type Used Where Comment Looks like File Download

4

Y_Rod_Clamp_4_Off.stl

Adapto y rod clamp 8mm.jpg

RP
Y rod clamps
Holds the Y smooth rods firmly to the frame. You need 4 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y rod clamps
[1]GitHub,

[2]Direct

1

Y_Motor_Mount_1_Off.stl

Adapto Y motor mount.jpg

RP
Y motor mount
Holds the Y motor to the frame. Fits a Nema 17 stepper motor just fine. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y motor mount
[3]GitHub,

[4]Direct

1

Y_Idler_1_Off.stl

Adapto y idler.jpg

RP
Y idler
This is the Y axes belt idler that holds the Y belt idler bearing(s) firmly to the frame. You need to print 1 of this .stl file (that actually contains 2 plastic parts) for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y idler
[5]GitHub,

[6]Direct

1

Y_Belt_Block_1_Off.stl

Adapto Y belt block.jpg

RP
Y belt block
This part is to be mounted under the bed. It holds both ends of the Y belt firmly to the bed making the stepper able to move the Y akses. The belt can for example be mounted to this with Zipties and make you able to get the belt nice and tight. You need one of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y belt block
[7]GitHub,

[8]Direct

3

Y_Bearing_Holder_LM8UU_3_Off.stl

Adapto y bearing holder.jpg

RP
Y bearing holders
Holds the Y axes bearings that slide on the Y smooth rods. Is to be mounted under the bed and holds a firm grasp on the y linear bearings of choice as long as the bearings have a outer diameter of about 15mm. You need at least 3 of these on each Adapto printer you build. Some people prefer to use 4.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Y bearing holders
[9]GitHub,

[10]Direct

2

Z_Motor_Holder_2_Off.stl

Adapto z motor mounts.jpg

RP
Z motor holder
Holds the Z motors firmly to the frame. You need 2 of this for each Adapto you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z motor holder
[11]GitHub,

[12]Direct

1

Z_Couplers_M5.stl

Adapto z couplers M5.jpg

RP
Z couplers
Couples the Z threaded rods firmly to the Z motors. You need to print 1 of this .stl file (that actually contains 2 plastic parts) for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z couplers
[13]GitHub,

[14]Direct

4

Foot_4_Off.stl

Adapto foot.jpg

RP
Feet
Holds the lower frame firmly assembled and also work as the feet clearing the Z motors from the table keeping the nice look intact. You need 4 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Feet
[15]GitHub,

[16]Direct

2-10

90_innerCorner.stl

Adapto 90 inner corner.jpg

RP
90 inner corner
Primary to support the frame on the opposite side of the extrusion from the Z_Smooth_Rod_Holder_Lower_2_Off.stl helps to keep the high frame at 90 degrees onto the lower frame. Recommended is to also use 4 more supporting the high frame in x direction. Some people also prefer to use even 4 more of these on the inside corner on the back side of the feet. Optional buy some metal corners to do the job if you like overkill and don't trust your mother.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

90 inner corner
[17]GitHub,

[18]Direct

1

Extruder_Idler_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder idler.jpg

RP
Extruder idler
Holds the extruder idler that squeeze the filament up against the hobbed bolt for consistent plastic feeding. Holds a 608 bearing with a short M8 threaded rot or preferably a sjort 8mm smooth rod. You need 1 of this for each Adapto Printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder idler
[19]GitHub,

[20]Direct

1

Large_Gear_T36_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder large gear.jpg

RP
Extruder large gear
Turns the hobbed bolt for filament feeding. It have 36 tooths and fits a M8 hobbed bolt nicely and have room for a M8 captive nut allowing it to lock on to the hobbed bolt using an additional nut. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder large gear
[21]GitHub,

[22]Direct

1

Small_Gear_T13_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder small gear.jpg

RP
Extruder small gear
Sits on the extruder motor and turns the large gear. Locks to the motor axle with a M3 captive nut with M3 screw. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder small gear
[23]GitHub,

[24]Direct

1

Extruder_X_Carriage_Combo_1_Off.stl

Adapto extruder x carriage.jpg

RP
Extruder carriage
This is both the X-carriage and extruder combined in one plastic part. It holds the weight of the nema17 close to the X-smooth rods to prevent shaking and holds the 3 linear bearings making the x akses slide smoothly. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 60% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Extruder carriage
[25]GitHub,

[26]Direct

2

Z_Smooth_Rod_Holder_Lower_2_Off.stl

Adapto z smooth rod holder lower.jpg

RP
Z smooth rod holder lower
To hold the lower end of the Z smooth rod firmly to the frame. It fits a 8mm smooth rod nicely and ads another good looking part to the design. You need 2 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z smooth rod holder lower
[27]GitHub,

[28]Direct

2

Z_Smooth_Rod_Holder_Upper_2_Off.stl

Adapto z smooth rod holder upper.jpg

RP
Z smooth rod holder upper
To hold the upper end of the Z smooth rod firmly to the frame. It fits a 8mm smooth rod nicely and ads another good looking part to the design. You need 2 of these for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Z smooth rod holder upper
[29]GitHub,

[30]Direct

1

X_End_Idler_1_Off.stl

Adapto x end idlerr.jpg

RP
X end idler
Holds the X smooth rods, Z threaded rods firmly to the frame, the Z linear bearings in place and X idler in position to make the best possible print results. You need 1 of this for each Adapto Printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

X end idler
[31]GitHub,

[32]Direct

1

X_End_Motor_1_Off.stl

Adapto x end motor.jpg

RP
X end motor
Holds the X smooth rods, Z threaded rods firmly to the frame, the Z linear bearings in place and X motor in position to make the best possible print results. You need 1 of this for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

X end motor
[33]GitHub,

[34]Direct

1

Endstop_Holders_X_3.stl

Adapto endstop holders.jpg

RP
Endstop holders
Holds the end stops firmly to the frame. Some changes may be expected in these soonish but will do for now. you need to print 1 of this STL (that actually contains 3 plastic parts) for each Adapto printer you build.

For printing this part, recommended is 35% infill, 2 top/bottom/perimeter layers or more.

Endstop holders
[35]GitHub,

[36]Direct

Frame

Quantity Length Part Type Used Where Comment Looks like
2 300mm 20x20mm aluminum extrusion
2x300mm
This is the frame parts that determine the width of the frame.(X direction) Using 300mm extrusions here will result in about 250mm X-travel.

In other words, about 50mm loss of X-travel relative to these frame parts. (If you need for example 300mm X-travel you have to use 350mm extrusions here.)

You need 2 of these 300mm lengths for each Adapto printer you build.

Alu extrusions
2 340mm 20x20mm aluminum extrusion
2x340mm
This is the frame parts that determine the length of the frame.(Y direction) Using 340mm extrusions here will result in about 210mm Y-travel.

In other words, about 130mm loss of Y-travel relative to these frame parts. (If you need for example 300mm Y-travel you have to use 430mm extrusions here.)

You need 2 of these 340mm lengths for each Adapto printer you build.

Alu extrusions
3 420mm 20x20mm aluminum extrusion
3x420mm
This is the frame parts that determine the Height of the frame.(Z direction) Using 420mm extrusions here will result in about 270mm Z-travel.

In other words, about 150mm loss of Z-travel relative to these frame parts. (If you need for example 300mm Z-travel you have to use 450mm extrusions here.)

You need 3 of these 420mm lengths for each Adapto printer you build.

Alu extrusions

Smooth rods

Part Used Where Quantity Recommended minimum lengths. Comment Looks like
X-smooth rods
X smooth rods
2 400mm Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.
Smooth rods
Y-smooth rods
Smooth rods
2 380mm Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.
Y smooth rods
Z-smooth rods
Smooth rods
2 440mm Can without problems be longer than recommended minimum lengths.
Z smooth rods

Vitamins

work in progress..... Some more awesomeness coming soon here :-)

Electronics

work in progress..... Some more awesomeness coming soon here :-)

How to build

Under construction ;-)

This guide is JUST A GUIDE and you don't have to follow this to the point. It is made to give you a good idea of how to do it and is not meant to be a ultimate blueprint of how to build the Adapto Printer. There might be a chance that you don't have the exact same parts as in this guide. The nuts might be slightly different, maybe you use thicker smooth rods and have the 10mm parts from the Adapto GitHub or maybe even use another frame material and color. There might be some upgrades that haven't been picked up and implemented in the guide just yet so please use it as a GUIDE, nothing else :-)

Anyway.. HERE WE GO! :D

Build step 1: Y belt idler assembly.

Parts needed in this step

  • The 2 RP parts from the Y_Idler_1_Off.stl file
  • 2x 608 bearings
  • 4X washers (for the M8 bolt)
  • 2x M8 nuts
  • 1x M8 bolt (or some M8 threaded rod )
  • 4x T-slot nuts
  • 4x M5x12mm screws
  • 4X washers(for the M5 screws)
  • 1x of the 300mm long frame aluminum extrusions

Mounted as shown in the pictures

1. Exploded view
Y idler mount1.jpg
2. Mount the parts in this order like this.
Y idler mount2.jpg
3. Slide in the T-Slot nuts.

Make sure the M5 screws fit into the RP part holes. Drilling might be required.

Y idler mount3.jpg
4. Center the idler, move the nut away from the M5 screw so you can tighten it.

Tighten the M8 nuts and the rest of the M5 screws.

Y idler mount4.jpg
5. Top side view
Y idler mount5.jpg
6. Bottom side view
Y idler mount6.jpg

Build step 2: Assemble the Y-motor mount.

Parts needed in this step:

  • The RP part from the Y_Motor_Mount_1_Off.stl file.
  • The other 300mm long frame extrusion.
  • 3x T-slot nuts
  • 3x M5 screws (preferarly 2xM5x12 and 1x M5x10)
  • 3x washers
1. Parts view
Y motor mount1.jpg
2. Slide in the T-slot nuts.
Y motor mount2.jpg
3. Mount the Rp part like this loosely. Aligning comes later on.
Y motor mount3.jpg
4.Bottom side view.
Y motor mount4.jpg

Build step 3: Mount the Y smooth rod holders.

Parts needed in this step:

  • The same 2x 300mm long frame extrusions as in step 1 and 2.
  • 8x M5x12mm screws.
  • 8x T-slot nuts.
  • 8x washers.(To be honest, I didn't use any washers here because, my screw heads is so big and these parts don't need much screw force.)
1. Slide in the T-slot nuts.
Y rodholder mount1.jpg
2. Mount the Rp part like this, loosely. Aligning comes later on.
Y rodholder mount2.jpg

Simple as that :-) center