What factor make RepRap more faster & rapid

Hello anyone,
what factor make RepRap more faster & rapid :

1. whether from the design of the structure?;
2. whether from the electronical hardware (Gen3, Gen7 or blablabla)?;
3. whether from the extruder;
4. whether from motor;
5. Or whether from the what sangolulu, polulu, blablabla;

Sorry for the inconvenience from my language, my english was terrible...

Best Regards,

Jhon

Everything you listed above, but for the most part I'd say:

1. A skilled and experienced operator.
2. A very precisely built and calibrated printer.

A regular prusa has a maximum potential for the quality it can achieve, few people exploit the design to its full limit. Achieving speed should be a second goal, as good prints is more important. Though if you only want speed, you can increase the nozzle size to 1mm+.

My advice: Build a regular prusa, get the experience and use that to build the reprap you need.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

So i have no choice but to buy mendel prusa.....???

This is not meant to be rude, but you don't know what you want, or the limits of designs before you've tried them for yourself.

To print faster you need a more rigid machine, and there are many people doing custom builds to print faster, often involving all metal parts and thicker rods. What I'm saying is, the upgrades you need to build a printer for pure speed, is expensive, and you probably wouldn't be able to benefit from them without gaining some hands-on reprap experience first.

The prusa is an excellent, well proven and widely used design that will print (very!) fast and good. In other words, the best for beginners (imho). Thoug if you don't want to build a prusa, I hear mendelmax [mendelmax.com] is a more rigid option.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

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So i have no choice but to buy mendel prusa.....???

It seems there is a new 3d printer company with a new 3d printer nearly everyday, so there is plenty of choice! Only a few have been around long enough to have proven track records and a support community though.

Here is my solution to the stiffness problem: [forums.reprap.org]. I have it up and running but haven't had time to document it yet. It certainly doesn't shake like my Prusa and Mendel do.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Printrbot appears to be doing very well but doesn't have near the size of any of the Mendel variants (for about the same price). Does look like it can be assembled very quickly! Projected delivery sometime in Feb 2012!.

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

@nophead: your simpilified design should scale up very nicely.

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Yes a big advantage is you can scale each axis independently, whereas Y and Z are linked with the equilateral triangular prism designs.

Also with the full design in openscad you can specify the build area and get a bill of materials with the rod lengths and sheet sizes plus a DXF of the sheets and an SVG with drill centres.

You can also specify the rod diameters individually, so for example, if you wanted a very tall Z axis you can make the Z rods12mm or 16mm for stiffness (any size for which you can get LMXXUU bearings in) and keep the X & Y at 8 or 10mm. I currently have all the rods 10mm but I think 8mm is sufficient for X & Y if the bed and extruder are light enough. I can also make a Huxley class machine with NEMA14 motors and I will use Acrylic for the sheets.

I don't know the exact printing time yet, but I guess it is substantially less than Prusa. It is quicker to assemble, most of the time is the wiring.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/09/2011 11:06AM by nophead.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

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nophead
Also with the full design in openscad you can specify the build area and get a bill of materials with the rod lengths and sheet sizes plus a DXF of the sheets and an SVG with drill centres.

THAT I want to SEE!

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nophead
...most of the time is the wiring.

That was the case for my Mendel, I hate doing those damn connectors pin by pin, by hand, without the proper crimping tool. And then I solder it after crimping - took forever!

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

I think the way to go is IDC ribbon cables with latching headers. Then all you need to solder is the motor / limit switch ends. I have wired all the moving connections (X axis, extruder and heated bed) with ribbon cable on the machine above.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]