Why does my infill look like garbage?

Is my infill set too fast? Its only 20mm/s faster than my permiters and my permiters look great.

This is at 50% infill. .2 layer height.




20% honeycomb infill with solid layers every 5 layers. Its also set to do the top 6 layers solid yet you can still see the honeycomb.


If I do 100% infill it looks a ton better but it uses way more plastic.

Any ideas?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2013 10:57PM by hendo420.

what layer height are you printing with?

.2mm

Just saw that in your OP, derp.

That type of thing is a classic symptom of not extruding enough plastic. If you are using slic3r, slice and print a thin walled object, or just any object with a single perimeter and no infill. Measure the thickness of the wall and compare it to the value slic3r outputs in the beginning of the gcode file.

Try increasing your layer height. If your nozzle is too big, .2mm may be to fine.

.2mm in natural and black and green turns out fine.

Ive been playing with this orrange. Its 1.65mm instead of 1.75 so i set that in slicer and it made it a bit better. Then I turned the heat up to 220 instead of the recomended 180 and its looking even better.

I think the problem is I didnt dial in this color b4 I started printing.

Never take the sellers recomendations on tempeture. Always test it for yourself. lol

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2013 12:35AM by hendo420.

Are you certain it isn't ABS? I have gotten that instead of PLA from Amazon vendors before.

yes slow down your infill to the perimeter speed. i am sure the perimeter speed is quite fast by looking at the thin outline. your extruder can not keep up, whatever the material is. if you want faster infill then do line infill.

hendo420 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> .2mm in natural and black and green turns out
> fine.
>
> Ive been playing with this orrange. Its 1.65mm
> instead of 1.75 so i set that in slicer and it
> made it a bit better. Then I turned the heat up to
> 220 instead of the recomended 180 and its looking
> even better.
>
> I think the problem is I didnt dial in this color
> b4 I started printing.
>
> Never take the sellers recomendations on
> tempeture. Always test it for yourself. lol

How do you test the temp yourself? I am new to 3d printing. I have had his problem but not as bad. What I did to fix it was make sure I measures the filament in several places and input the average. Then slow down the printing.

I do a test cube. I start at about 170, print a test cube that takes about 3-5 minutes. I write the temp on the cube and set it aside. I then do a cube every 5-10 degrees. Once I get to 230 or so I take a good look at all of the test cubes to see which looks the best. Then I do a bigger test cube to make sure the first wasn't a fluke and to make sure larger objects look good at that temp.

As for filament diameter I have digital calipers but they are not very accurate. If it fluctuates between 1.7 and 1.8 i consider it 1.75. If it fluctuates around 1.6 and 1.7 i consider it 1.65. lol

I have noticed that the filaments that melt at lower temps are able to print faster. with the filaments that only work at 220c + i can watch during fill as my hot end drops in temp. I have seen it go from 230 all the way down to 200 during fill. My hot end only has a 3w resistor. I have a new hot end that I just need to convert from 3mm filament to 1.75mm filament it has a 5w resistor so it should stay hot during high speed printing better.

As the temp drops my fill gets worse and worse. I wish I could find a filament supplier that their plastic actually extrudes and produces a good print at 170-180.

hendo420 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> As the temp drops my fill gets worse and worse. I
> wish I could find a filament supplier that their
> plastic actually extrudes and produces a good
> print at 170-180.

Did you mention what hot-end you are using?

The orange material looks like translucent PLA, it should work perfectly fine at 170 Degrees C.
It should be totally runny and almost impossible to use if you actually are printing at 220 degrees C - Unless you are trying to print at ~160mm/sec or faster.

Can your hobbed filament drive gear work with 1.65mm material, you may just poor drive.

Make sure you have your Hot-end and thermistor actually calibrated, or you won't have a clue if the temperatures you are quoting are anything like what the filament is seeing.

Generally PLA works at temperatures down to 165 for printing speeds of around 30mm/sec and can still work fine at even lower temperatures.

If you want an example of Very GOOD material, just order some from Faberdashery, most colours will work down to 165 and you should get perfect operation at around 190 even at speeds of +70mm/sec or faster. (As long as you have a decent hot-end like the J-head MKV)

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[richrap.blogspot.com]

I have a J-head MK 1 or 2. I have filament that works at 170-180c. for some reason the stuff I have gotten lately has a really high melt point. At 170 the extruder eats up the filament. It does it till I get up to about 200. I have tried to manually push the filament into the hotend at 170 and its almost impossible. If I use the black I have it extrudes just fine at 170. I'm currently printing at 235c

Crap filament? Probably, its really cheap. lol

i find that if i am squishing the first layer too much the first layer comes out garbage and from there makes all the infill ontop of it rough. have you tried raising your first layer z-offset? it might do the trick